Jacko

Any chance of some pics of the coupe interior?

BMW should hire the guy who penned the new stratos too design new bimmers. Old Stratos looked awesome, new one looks just as good, just more modern, and it still looks like a stratos! Unlike the new bimmers which seem to be some sorta hybrid hyundai/mitsubishi/dropped pie...

Damn that is cool. Shortened Scuderia 430 is the underneath the carbon body. Website is total rubbish though...

Damn, its sounds the business!

Is it the top of the strut tower that rips open? Is it a common thing? I busted both mine a week after I put new shocks and springs in, thought it was kinda random at the time Cut out the top of the tower and welded in some ~5mm steel plates, been fine since.

Sell that nasty mazda and go all out on the bimmer Guy in the black coupe is a loose unit, but he sure can drive.

http://www.e3024v.com/board/index.php?topic=409.0

Been looking into these, Still researching it, but the XYZ coilovers seem to be pretty descent for the price, im tempted. They are weld in jobbies though, using your existing knuckle etc, and optionally hacking the OE rear spring perch. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-313311078.htm http://www.speedfactor.co.nz/suspension.php http://www.xyz-racing.com/ Vmaxx's look nice, but dont seem to have adjustable shocks/camber plates, so all you can adjust is the ride height? Other option is these, http://www.ground-control-store.com/produc...php/II=121/CA=8, and some adjustable konis, but thats closer too $2k

rattle can, aerosol, spray can etc

Im after a spray bomb, should only need one, of shwartz black too pimp up some chips/rust in my E30's engine bay while the engines out. The exterior and jams are are getting sprayed next year. Can anyone recommend someone too hook me up?

Wow, those grooves in the bores are wicked. Sure the M88 wasnt "tuned" in spain by this guy? http://www.lancerregister.com/showpost.php...amp;postcount=6

M20 temp sensor rethreaded to M12x1.5, screws into the block instead of the fitting for the throttle body heating lines (which will be removed). M50's sensor outputs go to the ECU, but its resistance isnt compatible with the E30 gauge, so the M20's sensor drives the gauge, and two of the four M50's sensor pins feed the ECU. Rethreading the sensor (originally M14ish) seemed like a better idea than tapping out the block.

Read the websites, if you wanna do a swap your gonna need to do some reading, google is your friend 196 at the fly wheel, healthy improvements can be made with new headers/exhaust though and its a much more modern engine than M20/30's Depending on you car and the engine you get, lots of the hard work with adapting the loom has been done and there are easy diagrams online. The Basics of whats needed, if you use your E30's gearbox - M50B25+loom+ecu+O2sensor E36 engine arms E28 engine mount rubbers E34 sump E34 throttle cable Clutch to handle the juice Electric fan kit M20 water temp sender (rethreaded) Modded gearbox crossmember Modded stock exhaust manifold or new headers Machined M20 flywheel New smaller diameter brake booster (or you can grind the intake manifold on the M50, if on the cheap) +Bits for the M50 (gaskets, thermostat etc) +Whatever is needed to cert the car in strayla (drive shaft hoops etc)

Why not go 24V? 2k AU should get you everything to get an M50B25 going, if you do it on the cheap, and if the M50's in good nick to start with. check out www.e3024v.com & http://www.e30dohc.com/wiki/index.php?title=DOHC_Swap_Basics

This would confirm that they stock everything - http://www.schmiedmann.com/3_series/E30/Eq...ge2.htm#1934174

They seem to have some very good prices, and shipping is cheaper than the US. Wondering if anyone has used them before? http://www.schmiedmann.com Everything from Alpina kits to gaskets.

The sillyist thing at the moment is the battery chemistries. All the greenys buy prius's etc too save trees/whales/ethiopians, and then slap a save tibet sticker on the bumper. Where do you think lithium thats in the batteries comes from? Tibet. Funny how the chinese dont wanna give it back

If I turn on my lights with my foot on the brakes my number plate warning light comes on. The number plate light still works, and if I turn on the lights with no brakes on I get no warning. Is this some sorta weird voltage drop/resistance thing confusing the warning light circuit? Do others E30's do this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pd9hDa-JHZ8&feature=fvw This Datsun rocks. Electrics do make 100% torque from zero rpm ( Ihave the scars too prove it) , and a good brushless electric can exceed 90% efficiency, where as most 4 strokes struggle to acheive 30%. Thats not saving trees efficiency, thats putting a 1/3rd the energy in to get the same power. I have a whole bunch of high performance electric rc planes, one does 0-160mph in 3 seconds, eat ya heart out bugatti! Its not practical for everday use, yet, but in terms of high performance, an electric can smoke any IC engine. It simply requires the bits too do it, which is currently pretty pricey ie A HV brushless speed control that can handle huge amps is currently hugely expensive, and motors need to be custom made. None of it is impossible though, just pricey. Same with anything though, as they make more prices will come down.

Whats ya budget man? Save up till november, my springs/shocks/wheels will be the in for sale section for a good price. Supersport cup kit and 17" wheels with tyres that'll last a few more wofs for around 1k.

I kinda feel sad for that M10, is that wrong? Sorry, moment of weakness, wind the boost up till it spits the rings out the exhaust, then back it off a couple of psi.

Cheers Mike

Sweet, Whats in the kit? I was just gonna go to a welding shop for the + cable and buy a supercheap battery box.

Prefacelift is theres any difference, Just noticed mine has cracked in the last week.

Played with the loom yesterday, and how its gonna be routed, Battery is now going in the boot, DME is going in a nice little box where the battery sits Spent a couple of hours cleaning up the intake manifold. Endless rubbish came outta there, gunk, spiders, unknown black gritty stuff! I think a seperate breather can might be in order. Also had a look at how to blank off the throttle body heater and its plumbing, still undecided about how to do it in a non gash way. Anyone got any ideas? On another note, can you buy prepacked spraycan touch up paint, and where from? Ive got a few little spots of rust coming through in the engine bay, mostly just where the original paint has been chipped in the past. Ill ripp into that when the engines out, be handy for when all the excess brackets (radiator header tank etc) get attacked with the angle grinder too. Im an aircraft engineer, its a rare happy occasion that one gets too play with angle grinder.