Jacko

OIl cooler seals?

More people joining the cool kids club, pics or it didnt happen.

Bastards putting boxes on it my bonnet and watching them slide off....

Manual box and an LSD! That looks like a really good buy, all the options but PDC and headlight washers, and low ks.

Bastards - https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ Big grills, shitty FWD CUVs, and restricting information access. Todays BMW suck.

That is really cheap for a DMF kit! I often look at Rockauto but for some reason the parts prices I look at dont appear to be much cheaper if any than FCP etc Im not sure if P&S will have the gear to do the N52 rear crank seal or not? Its probably worth asking them first just incase, they were really good when I visited them, but I dont think there are many workshops in NZ who actually pull apart N52B30s (because they dont break ? ) The procedure to do it is up on newtis.info, but it looks like the sites been closed down!!

I run Castrol React Performance DOT 4, Which is essentially the same performance as DOT 5.1 ( and much higher than average DOT4 at 180/260c ), totally happy in BMWs and cheap as chups https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/B0F5626B0EB98D0B8025843C00213662/$File/BPXE-9VCL2X.pdf

With the right box fluid you really cant tell the difference, its definitely not harsh. When the stock box fluid is hot you get gear chatter running a SMF, other than it it's not really any different. I went SMF to give options in the future, like getting it lightened etc, and running different clutch plates. Feel free to hit me up and compare it to the DMF, Im down in conifer grove. Rear crank seal is a big job, requires specialist sealant and tools. I look at doing mine then fell back to - If it aint broken dont fix it

Can really only be the clutch or flywheel if its doing it when car is stationary ? The valeo SMF kit is good...

Yeah Id expect they wouldve put it back together properly. Just read it again, and it does it in idle and in neutral??

Was the driveshaft pulled apart and not put back together balanced?

Street cred +9000

@promo might be the man for this

All good, I reset the CB on the FRM. You get a few goes at it. Doing waterpump and thermostat at same time as engine mounts is good plan, dropping the subframe makes access to waterpump easier anyway. Engine mounts are a bit fiddly to do up, but not the worst job in the world, double check the sump gaskets not seeping at the same time as you'll kick yourself if dont do it while the subframes dropped.

Might be your DME flash

I only run 98, and reset adaptations with it in the tank, putting 95 in it results in it throwing cat sensor errors in about 100km On coolant temps, not oil, they run 80-90 in "getting thrashed mode" where the waterpump goes full beans, 90-100 in normal mode, and 100-115 in super dooper eco mode. If its not throwing errors its working, as its closed loop. DME looks at how much of a muppet you're driving like, then asks water pump and themostat to hold a temp, if it doesnt hold that temp it throws an error.

It is curious about how much 130 fuel economy varies, I get 9.5km average around auckland (pre-lci manual) and get low 8s on solid road trips, and I certainly dont make any efforts to save gas. On my old daily Akl-Raglan-Akl trip the 130 used noticeably less gas than my 1.6 corolla at the time. Ive seen some people report 12l/100km, seems to vary hugely.

This is bimmersport, I think you are after kiasport

Bringing it tomorrow? Keen as a bean to check it out.

Pokemon graphics, samurai shifter (auto), USB fluffy animal... 18888 price tag... just guessing but I think the owner is Asian... Actually would look pretty cool in solid yellow though.

Im with AMI too, got it independently valued, and have agreed value cover.

Mines insured for 16

Basic stuff first - when was the fluid replaced? What condition are the pads and rotors in? Is it something dumb like just needing bleeding?

Found a forestry road in the middle of nowhere and enjoyed it