Jacko

This is a GS6-37BZ as in the 130, which is supposed to run the MT2 life time fill GL4 nonsense. Mine just has 75w90 progear, there is a GL4 progear product as well. Online downside ive seen is its pretty clunky for the first few minutes on real cold mornings.

Switching to 75w90 penrite progear on my SMF conversion solved the noises when the stock viscosity got warm (with a spring centre clutch)

Found something similar the other day, 128s (the US market N52B30 coupe) uses actual pressure sensors, makes ya wonder why BMW developed two systems for two different markets considering so much of the parts are similar.

Just saying. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/engines/listing-2652240429.htm

Bloody N52s, unreliable things, should have bought an N54 What a PITA, I agree it might be at the point where the best option is just to grab another good N52 and swap ya new parts on to it (HELLBM definitely has one). If the previous servicing on it has been so bad to cause extreme wear like that, makes ya wonder what else has taken a metal on metal beating.

Has the valvetronic motor itself been changed, or were the endpoints just relearnt? Have you tried transposing the valvetronic motor from one 130 to the other and seeing if the fault follows?

Yeah it can do

Glad you got it sorted, it looks tits! On the subject of diagnostic tools etc, I give 3 thumbs up and a big shwing to Bimmergeeks protools app, does all the stuff you want (all the useful INPA/ISTA/Coding) in a slick interface for a one off cost... Its epically better than Carly and the like, and has all the power of the rehingold suite stuff without having to understand how to code in the german Wish I had bought it years ago.

Personally I wouldnt bother with out of the box generic tunes, particularly ones with extraordinary claims like 211kw... if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. The "dynographs" on his website ring alarm bells too, MS paint is not dyno software Put the money towards a LSD/maintenance/etc. If you want more power in the future, get a proper dyno tune with things to make use of it (like MILVs/headers/etc) But, its also not my money, and I wanna see what the results are

Dyno tune? Make sure to grab the before and after (and his number if actually gets that!)

Yeah looks like standard Msport. Standard shocks and springs are black and likely still have the bmw part numbers on em. This thread needs more pics, want to see goodies you got for stupidly low price.

Doesnt look like it'll take much to get it mint either, stuff like the Msport rear bumper are a dime a dozen at wreckers. Has the clutch/DMF been done? ~230k is about where my factory one started to be on its last legs.

Exactly... big kidney grills are the equivalent of putting a giant phallus on the front to the Chinese market...

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=UF92-EUR-11-2005-E87-BMW-130i&diagId=51_6535 The V bar things on the rear end to the diff is a E81 thing, no idea why the 2 door has it, maybe they had issues with flex on em ? E91 Msports get even more bracing and stuff, and big ass aluminium plate across transmission tunnel, but from eye-o-meter none of the pick up points transferred across to the E8x platform.

Gave it wash prior to WOF tomorrow. This is Fusso King of Gloss applied 7 weeks ago, and it was covered in mud prior to this evening. Stuff is really legit, behaves like a ceramic but way cheaper and easier to apply.

Wow thats a bargain, would be worth that even if it didnt run. Good spec too - https://www.mdecoder.com/decode/ps89060 (and good vintage, 140 off mine in production run )

Would be worth cleaning it up and seeing where its coming from, the output shaft seals are easy and cheap, the inputs significantly more work and requires the right tools to do properly. Edit -... or its a really good excuse to send it to Kayne for an LSD install

That brace is standard, looks like the diff seals need doing?

Its worth shifting up just to enjoy the downshifts in it ... I need to win lotto.

Id definitely go for manual sports seats given the option, particularly in a 1, they have a way bigger range of motion than the electrics (especially in ass height)

Whats with the Z4 badging? weird.

ISTA+ function is probably the easiest way, can probably do it with INPA too but havent looked.

Funnily, I went totally the opposite way... pulled LED foglights out and put in some 3000k yellow halogens in as I think they looked better with yellowy light against the xenons

Not really any serious power gains to be had, nothing of serious consequence anyway. New map, few more hp (some claim 200kw doable, I think thats likely BS) Decent headers, pickings are slim for RHD, brintech in aussie seem to have the best option but its not cheap, however dyno proven 13-15kw https://www.brintechcustoms.com.au/all-products/n52-custom-exhaust-headers MILVs, modifying the intake lift of the valvetronic system, gives a solid bump throughout rev range but requires a custom dyno tune. There is also a custom exhaust camshaft out there, but its currently vapourware. https://www.bimmermilvs.com/ Thats about it, at least sanely. Lower spec N52s benefit from bolting the HO N52B30 bits too them, but the 130s come out of the box in the highest state of factory N52 tune. There are some epic N52B30s out there in racecars, Kevin from Birds has/had a 380bhp N52B30 that runs S54 ITBs and custom cams with locked valvetronic... but ya talking $20-30k. There is also BPC who have played with multiple silly power turbo N52s, but they're hand grenades so are not available to purchase as kits. As Dave says, best option with 130s is fixing the suspension and putting an LSD in... Ive done some very spirited B road blitzes and Ive never thought afterwards "I need more power ".. near 190kw in a little hatch is pretty solid out of the box. If your 130 is feeling slow, likely something needs some love. A service, new airfilter, new plugs, cleaning out any intake manifold slime and then resetting the DME adaptations with 98 in the tank is probably a good first step.