Jacko

Yeh was very lucky was the top bolt and not the lower one, had only a few threads on the lower one left before it got really exciting.... Bit of a timeline of the expensive experience so far First visit - Brakes, Plugs, Coolant flush and replace (asked for bmw coolant, N52 electric water pump scares me). Even specifically asked for good rotors and pads, not cheap sh*t - $2500 One week later : Massive brake shudder and squeeling, nasty to drive. Also noticed nasty apprentice marks on the wheels from a rattle gun with too short a socket (that was enough to make me decide not to go back). Mech said it was probably my driving style causing the rotors to warp. Got front tyres replaced (sidewall damage unrelated), Tyre guys had to use a power bar to remove front wheels. Second visit to Mr Mechanic - Replaced front rotors and pads (for free, his supplier replaced) Next day the caliper bolt fell out, left me on side of road in Ngaruawahia at 8am. Found local mechanic who cut down a bolt he found and resecured caliper. No response from Mr Mechanic, other than "Sorry! It was the apprentice, shall give him a talking too" . Didnt even offer to pay for the Mechanic in Ngaruawahia. Decision made to really never go back. Week or so later, we are back to massive shuddering and squeeky brakes. No response from Mr Mechanic for few weeks after, Got rear tyres replaced (tread wear), Tyre guys had to use power bar to remove rear wheels (there is a theme here...) Mr Mechanic then responds with he is asking BMW whats going on (BS Im guessing), and ensures me he doesnt use a rattle gun on wheels, they are torqued as per BMW specs. I get the legends at Botany Motor Worx to sort it out, just want to be able to drive (to work) and not swear every time have to slow down! - Rotors are not Brembos, I had my suspicions due to the amount of rust they accumulated in just a few weeks! - No antiseize copper/anti squeel coating - Missing caps on LH caliper - Busted rear wear sensor, front sensor not replaced - Coolant is just generic antifreeze (this really pisses me off, even more so than the bolt falling out hahah) - Two wheels cracked. So im up to about $5000 so far, and 3 days not earning money!, to get a fairly basic service and brake replacement done! Trust me if I could do it again, it'd go straight to Glenn (and will do in the future!).

Found the vid I took on phone 18917349_1301134059999877_2911073797517869056_n.mp4

Have got 4 ACS Type IVs 19x8.5" ET42s that are in need of a refurb, minor kerbing and paint damage. 2 of them are cracked in the inside bead area (roughly 1" long axial crack). One has a damaged centre cap clips. I know of Arrow Wheels, and just saw Manukau Auto and Tyre offer it https://www.magsandtyres.co.nz/mags-and-tyres/mag-wheel-repairs/ (whom ive used before for tyres, and have no complaints) and it'd be handy to be able just drop em off complete with tyres, and pick them up when done. There is no urgency with it, just wants to be done right (and cracks repaired properly!) Any recommendations/warnings?

After my nightmare experience with a cowboy mechanic, who wasnt even cheap, and repeatably screwed up my car in multiple ways (dodgy brakes, installed dodgey, BS talk, and flat out lying to my face) and then forgot to do some pretty crucial bolts up, resulting in a change of underwear at 100kmh.... I wont mention names here, as he still has the ability to make a mends, failing that I shall offer a public reaming! A massive shout out to Botany Motor Worx and Nick at BM Workshop parts department for hooking me up with some new brakes for the E87. Thanks heaps, appreciate it. Its so nice to be able to slow down without shaking my fillings out. Keep up the good work, I will not stray in the future! I dont know about these style 269s, but at least its better than cracked ACS Type IV!

Used Smith and Smith recently, dude made a mess and BSd me about screws being missing from the cabin Air filter before he got there, when I knew they were there as I installed em... Id try novus next time.

#1 - tweety birds #2 - road noise, sounds like a big truck #3 - some sort of electrickery valve opening/closing?

Cheers Glenn, ill try sort out a time to bring it around and make it your problem ( ) , at the moment im only in Auckland in the evenings and its a bit of a nightmare to arrange.

Yeah totally agree as well, was a cop out. Part of being the boss is manning up and taking the hit, its why you get paid the big bucks. Im getting very ho hum responses from mechanic now, hes obviously pretty over it as well. "What sort of squealing? High pitched?". Its F*&K*)(D squealing that what sort of squealing . I can live with the odd squeal, its the shaking steering wheel when theyre warm that annoys me. CGA is very vague about what my next options are, and he isnt MTA, so that no use. I might try just ask for a refund of the brake parts and labour, and see what he says, he is more than welcome to have the parts back and can then deal with his supplier...

I looked at PS4's but they arent available in a 225-235-245/35/19 They have some awesome reviews.

Like most products, where they are manufactured makes little difference, one would assume that a well known brand like Brembo has some pretty strict QA standards wherever they are getting made. Boeings are made in China too! Yeh claims to be an independent specialist, not that that really means much. I know him from years ago, and he has just recently started his own business (like myself) so I gave him some work

Trust me, next time its coming to you I got it wrong in first post, Mintex pads and Brembo rotors. Have you heard of some sort of incompatibility between these before? I imagine its a pretty common setup. Yeah, was very lucky i heard the top bolt come out in an awesome thunk, slowed down with handbrake. Lower bolt had a couple of threads remaining before entire caliper was being held in by the brake line and wear sensor, then it would have got really interesting... He blamed his apprentice.

Got all four rotors and pads replaced roughly a month ago, Mintex Pads and Brembo rotors, within roughly two weeks of driving they went through a squeeky phase, then quickly from a little bit warped/unevenly warn to a warped to hell phase that was not very nice to drive. The usual steering wheel shake etc. Mechanic who replaced them initially replaced the rotors and disks again under warranty. I suspect he over torqued the wheels, although he says he used a torque wrench and not a rattle gun, im very dubious about that (the apprentice marks on the wheels say otherwise...). This second time they were replaced, he forgot to tighten the RH Front caliper bolts, which left me on the side of road in Ngaruawahia with a front caliper flopping around.... Mechanic is very apologetic about both these things happening. Roll forward two weeks, and I have squeeky brakes again, and the tell tale signs of the rotors beginning to warp again Both sets of rotors/pads are being broken in correctly. I drive them energetically on B roads most days, but nothing silly, Ive never had them fade on me for instance. Nor did I have any issue with the original rotors/pads which probably had 70k+ on them. Whats going on? Any ideas? This is getting very annoying, and costing me time off work to fix (even under warranty!)

They are definitely sticky, in the wet at least, with new (2 week old) 225 A2s on the front and new 235 A3s on the back it feels like it wants to understeer more than it use to at the limits. Bites hard on acceleration and slapping 1-2-3 as well, no more chirp! Sidewalls appear to be just as stiff as A2s in 35 profile.

20 odd k, Have ordered some A3s, we shall see. Reading the reviews of them they are all over place so its a bit of a lottery... Once these are dead, probably RE004s all round

Anyone gone from Asymetric 2s to 3s? I am chewing through tyres on the 130, 235/35/19 A2s on the back have lasted 6 months (wof-wof) and at $480ish a corner not a game I wanna play for too long! Tyre wear is even, its not an alignment issue. Goodyear claim 31% increased tread life with the A3, is this for real? Any downsides to that? I love the way the A2s drive when being spirited, and they are awesome in the wet, but need em to last longer (I dont even do skids...) Even considered just going to a cheaper RE003, which apparently has similar grip levels wet/dry, but even worse tyre life....

Now at 197,000km, hasnt missed a beat since I purchase. Best car ive ever owned hands down. 200k and Ill think ill book it in for an OCD birthday.

I find "Hold my beer, watch this" is the precursor to awesome.

Great blow off valve noise... with a slushbox..

E30 320 stanced as with stretched tyres and mad camber. Threw up a lil, poor car.

I had one on my E30, theyre so soft you'd get about as much benefit out of sticking a pool noodle between the strut towers, made out of some sort of cheese based alloy I figure. Also, pool noodle would fit better

oh thats awesome.

9.4s Vs 9.5s 0-100 times

Your mate? Electric cars are pretty dumb.. I dont blame a 320i for trying to be one.

You dont have to look at it from the drivers seat, all you get to do is grin at the awesome thing that is N52B30 with 6 speed manual between it and the rear wheels.

Cool road.