thorburn

what does running bearings have to do with oil squirters and knock sensors? +1 for what andrew has said. M42. Keep it simple Good luck

Log manifold Are you tacking with a gasless mig? If you want I can point you in the right direction in terms of welder setup. Where are you getting gas from?

328 rotors and calipers are a direct swap onto a 325? no fiddly diddly with handbrake needed? can't remember and no time to research

2 door I didn't realize some of those events didn't require a seat and harness. Only event other than those is the production race series. Thanks all. My thoughts at this stage are: run it like it is but start the authority card process. eg get everything ready to slap in.

I'd like to do some events that require a race seat and harness. For these to be road legal what is required? Car is an e36, early model with no airbag Seats are Raetech 1000's Belts are 6 point FIA rated. Current thoughts are to make up a half cage and attach seatbelt anchors through the floor with the recommended size doubler plates. From here is where I'm a bit lost. Do I need a cert? Or do should I get it homologated? Can I just use the standard diagonal belts on the road and not do anything? I haven't sized this up yet and it seems like a bad idea Any help will be really appreciated

Do you have cad files for the caliper brackets? Ive got the same front calipers (and maybe rears) and was hoping to save some work. I'd completely understand if you don't want to share.

Can't paint them yourself? A little plastic primer first and you'll hardly need any prep

That's a lot of clutch. If your looking for a turbo manifold to go with it I could make a second

Swapped out the control arm bushes and joints. Really glad I went for the meyle hd outer ball joints. It's a very easy job if you have access to a press. Not sure what a new control arm is worth vs doing this. I actually have no idea what the parts were worth because I bought them over 3 years ago... Put in some early 325 swaybars with polybushes and new endlinks. These are the style that mount to the strut. Only new or freshened parts I don't have on the front end are inner rack ends and the steering rack itself. The steering fluid reservoir is leaking like they all do so i'll sort out a fix for that too. Thanks Garett for the seatbelt adjuster trim. I might be able to finally get a warrant

Next time I'm getting stuff profile cut I'll give you a message about an undertray.

Still failed a warrant so instead of making seatbelt adjuster covers I started taking apart the front end. Couldn't remember if there was a way to remove the bolts without taking the trigger wheel/harmonic balancer off. So tapped it off. Is there a way? Next I wanted to swap the cast exhaust manifold with a m52 stainless one. The main reason for this is the cast ones that were on it don't have an O2 sensor bung. Luckily for me one of the mates removed the old manifolds. The next photos show the purge setup I used for welding on some extra stainless fittings to the stainless manifold. Argon going in through the bottom, all holes taped and covered apart from the fittings. Argon is heavier than air so you want the purge venting through the top of the part to make sure it is full of flowing argon. I usually run a flow rate of 2lpm or less while welding. I do alter this depending on the size of the outlet of the part. This was rushed and i don't intend on keeping this exhaust manifold for too long. The part wasn't as clean as it could be but you get the idea. Being an exhaust it isn't completely necessary to purge it. It'll just be a bit ugly, not as smooth and not as strong(not by much). The tube thickness of the manifold was about 1.2mm and the fitting was about 2.5mm thick. Unsure exactly what each material was. They seemed to weld like 304 or 316 Welded with 1.2mm 316L wire at about 58 amps. 3 second slope down and a post gas time that's just long enough to keep the tungsten covered while it has color. Like i mentioned earlier I was in a rush and I could've gone lower on the amps, longer on the slopedown and spent some more time getting comfortable All up this took 45 minutes. I haven't measured anything so I hope it fits I designed some under tray things a while ago and got a couple profile cut. Thinking up a tidy, and easy to remove way of mounting it to the bumper and body now. It sits just behind the lip not under it Currently I'm mid way through removing the front suspension. Control arms are getting all new ball joints including the meyle hd outers. Offset lower control arm bushes (lcab) are also going in. The lcab is definitely one of the reasons the car was handling so terribly. The old ones had nearly torn completely apart Also going to swap in all the m3 bilstein and H&R gear. The badges and spoiler have been removed. Turns out the spoiler is genuine (i'd assumed it was a rep). It's developed a crack in the lower part because it had a screw attached in the wrong place. So that is getting repaired as well. Undecided if i want to keep the spoiler or sell

Is that galvanized pipe?

How many bends are you doing? Pipe benders have a huge radius. And 2 inch is pretty big. Can't use sch40 elbows?

1x crankshaft sensor. Most nz models have them on the front. Some other countries have the trigger wheel on the crank inside the block.

2.5L I'll remove the badges at some stage

Found an old headlight washer reservoir from one of my previous e36's. One of the things I refused to let go when trying to defeat my hoarding problem. Made up a new bracket from 3mm alloy, remembering to leave a bit extra at the start to make folding easier. Riv nut in place and rough enough. Riv nuts are f**king great btw. Even sprayed the hole to try prevent rust. I'm not very good at painting hence the overspray Looks on the piss in the photo.

Got another e36 on Friday and it's green. Biggest problems it's facing so far: Me being a rough c*nt It's going to be my daily driver Gearbox whines terribly. Will either fix, buy another or both interior is missing so many bits of trim, interior door handles fall off if pulled too hard terrible steering vibration windscreen washer jets aren't working Ac doesn't have a belt going to it Tyres are bald at the back Lacking performance Plan so far is to get a warrant, which only needs some minor things. Then sort out a standalone ecu and do some needed and preventative maintenance

If it's a road car talk to the person certifying it. Or post on oldschool forums- theres a topic for cert questions. I think something like it was asked a couple of weeks ago

Did you use lube?

only suggestion would be to clean the tube up before welding. But it is an exhaust so rough enough. Fab work looks great. looking forward to seeing the merge's

I'm fairly sure speedfactor in Tauranga have them. Theyre open on Saturday too.

I was using redline 75w90. As per https://store.vacmotorsports.com/redline---synthetic-75w90-gl-5-gear-oil-p2246.aspx It is fairly available from the usual retailers. If your really stuck i think i've got 2 bottles in the garage

would you settle for 17x8?

Aliexpress and nzrs.

I've built one for a b16 motor. The support is really good and Josh really keeps the project going in the right direction- cheap and simple. I built mine for just under $100 (not including shipping)running alpha n. Currently trying to sort out Bluetooth to go to a tablet. If you are making an order send me a pm. I'd be keen for another or to get some boards made up