thorburn

Any reason for not going with a round driveshaft hoop?

I've got some s50 itbs and an adapter to fit it to an m50/2 head. If you wanted to go down that route pm me Bummer about the current motor.

Did he intented to put it up for such a short auction

I was the one who bitched out at $4200. Definitely a great deal. Almost seemed too good to be true

What setup are you using for casting? Great looking piece of kit

I have no problem at all with people risking their lives for my entertainment. These people are helping "evolution". They are actively trying to eliminate the weak, dumb, and or unlucky

This made me question if you could warp a rotor

How much do you sell the 420g's for?

If you have the money https://shop.snapon.com/product/TechAngle-Models-(2%-Accuracy)/1-2"-Drive-TechAngle-Electronic-Torque-Wrench-(15-300-ft-lb)/ATECH3FR300B It's the only snap on tool I own. Brings me alot of joy every time I use it. Costs enough that I also don't want to use it as a hammer or a pry bar. Also in the market for a 1/4 inch torque wrench

I've got one in my e53 that I was planning on changing/upgrading. The screen isn't the best.

I've got some 16x8's if they'll work for you

Any recommendations for moving a driveable vehicle from Christchurch to Hamilton? Currently don't have the time to fly down myself

For 6 cylinders - Yes on a single vanos. No on dual vanos

I've started using npd's 100+. From the terapa outlet there definitely isn't 8.2-10+% ethanol. My means of testing is the car cruising in steady state with no ethanol petrol gives me 15.4 afr. With gull 98 (e10?) I see 16.0+ afr (gauge only reads to 16.0). With npd I've been seeing 15.4. This is an open loop system. The ecu doesn't see any feedback from O2 sensor or knock sensor(doesn't have knock sensors). Don't get me wrong this isn't a lab test. I'm sure other variables come into play. But from my limited knowledge I don't believe there is ethanol in their fuel. Interested to see what deteriorates with the fuel. There are signs up warning about plastic fuel tanks and other stuff. Will pay more attention next time

What are you trying to achieve? And what sort of budget do you have?

Why do you need an authority card? If those injector resistors are the same as plain old m50/2 ones it should be fine still. I've had them in much worse condition and still running. Might pay to measure the resistance. I might also have some spare M3 injectors. Will pm you tomorrow if I find em

Got one in Hamilton $50

Have some in Hamilton. Or can have a go at getting your wheel bearing out. Just got a very stubborn wheel bearing out of an M3 trailing arm.

I hope that pic isn't massive

No idea. Is there a way to tell? I've had a guy that mentioned this when he was trying to scan it Thanks I'd definitely be keen. What's the trick for removing the stepper motors? The prongs going into pcb seem rather stuck. Do they crush the pin and push through? Thanks @hqstu

Hopped up on confidence after fixing the LCM. I delved into repairing the dash. I failed miserably. Pixels are now unreadable. Return spring for the fuel level sender gauge is broken. The problems that were there probably still are. Only thing to note is the gauge cluster appears to be from an e38. So possibly could be contributing to why I can't scan it. Moved onto something back in my skill level. Removed the dash bar to check for anymore wiring that's been tampered with or corrosion. Only one bunch of wires that went to the boot and connected to nothing under the dash. They lead to the boot and don't connect to anything. Nothing else seems to have been effected by the rain getting in. While I was there I cleaned up the surface rust on the dash bar. Good for another few years Cleaned up the footwell surface rust and started putting it back together Now looking for a new gauge cluster Still haven't figured out why I can't scan it. Hoping a new instrument cluster will solve something. Then need to learn how to recode it.

Searched up the part number of the 7 legged mosfet(no idea if it's a mosfet but that's what I'm calling it) that I thought could be the problem. Found some possible data sheets and was able to confirm it wasn't functioning properly. Tried to figure out if there were any spares that weren't being used on the board e.g rear fog lights. Turns out there aren't. Managed to get a brief understanding of how the lcm works while reverse engineering it. Picked up another light control module to raid a mosfet from. Desoldered the failed mosfet Here it is back together, apart from the clips and lid. Luckily the smoke stayed in and it all works. So another job off the list. Onto trying to make the obd port work next

I've just learnt the light control module would need to be coded to suit the car. So I'll stick to sorting out the diagnostic port

Thanks. I've noticed the drains going down the a pillars. I intend on putting the hose on it to check the seal and drains. Maybe send some mig wire down either side as well. You're welcome to come join the fun

Managed to complete some other jobs, so started digging into this again. Removed the dash so I could make sure the water hadn't got into anything else. Luckily it isn't bad. A little surface corrosion that I'll clean up next. Found the lighting control module while trying to sort the brake light staying on. It has had some water through it. Will swap in one from the X5 to confirm if it's the problem (quick Google says it's the same part, will find out tomorrow). Found these previous sins near the throttle pedal and the radio. The extent of the water damage on the floor-not too bad The snipped wire on fuse 38. This will be why the airbag light wasn't coming on. And put in the new windscreen seal. Spent some time checking for continuity between the diagnostic port in the engine bay and where it's supposed to connect. I'm assuming I'm looking for a broken wire.