Matty104

BrookfromHamilton, you need this car

Make the block into a Coffee table I started to but my welder broke down and havn't got round to finishing it

weird ay, think its just the picture, the photo was when bravo had it as I lost my photos when my computer died, But looked exactly the same when i brought it.

This: To This:

Same thing happend to mine, then it crept its way down to doing it at 110kmph, Finally i guess the gearbox had had enough of it and i lostall gears except 1st. So be wary that your box may be stuffed

mumma............... MUMMA ......... dadda!!!!

Me? If so, i was completly lost. I can't stand driving in Auckland haha

Yea i thought of that haha , (- the heat) will probly be the easyest way to go, if it isn't going to ruin anything too much

The only problem i can see with fitement is the pressed "mound" thingies ontop of the strut tower. These stop the bracket sitting flush and therefore could possibly be putting to much tension on the two bolts it links to.. I was thinking of making a small spacer to weld underneath so the it can actually contact the tower the whole way around.

i've painted mine black so far, but will be going fluro green in the weekend

will be after two of them mate. just waiting on the auction for antonys 16x9's to finish now to decide weather to get tyres for the 16's or 18's. cheers

HAHAHAHAHA!!!111ONE111!!!!!

Mine did this a while back, turn out to be the rubber 'o' ring arond the top of the intank fuel pump, $4 and it was fixed ( apart from the 20 litres of gas i lost because i had filled to the top of the long range fuel tank)

Rather than start a new thread i think i'll just jump on Graham's band wagon. Johnno, How much am i looking at for a 215/35/18, not to fussed about brand, so long as it's not crap (ie. fullrun) , I'm running 205/35/18 toyo's at them moment and they seem to be pretty good. +100 to bravo on the negative camber, grrr

wooohooo thats why im leading the bidding then

Missed what this post was about. ? Do you still have these tyres dude?

yea, just measure the spline to make sure, as brooks was a bit bigger, (first time hes ever been able to say that)

sweet, bearing should be a 12x32x10 on a m20 from memory and you can get it from saeco on King street in frankton, cost around $10

Mine did this a while back, would work some days and the next day they wouldnt, changed the flasher unit with a spare on i had and problem solved, so your best bet is too change that first.

Do Want

does kerry or mike from mosens not have one dude, if you go in and see them im sure they will sort you out with what you need. or send you in the right direction

Shut up, that picture is what sold me on getting my e30,

That is so badass. Time to start drinking

yea man i wouldnt want to go back to standard now,it may just be my imagination but the windows seem to go faster now, may just be better contacts in the switches. There real easy to do, just a matter of joining the wires up. and the switches don't fit directly in, you have to file the holes out to suit but its easy enough. when i get a chance i will be doing a write up on the wireing. theres already one floating around on r3v but its for a coupe, so in the 4 door the rear console wireing is different and in the rear doors its different again, and the sunroof is different AGAIN. only by the fact that theres a few different colour wires, (nothing the bently didn't solve) Im also tempted to retrofit another switch for the sunroof down to the center console or somthing.

Too right i can, can even get it to do a kickflip if i hold my tounge the right way