bravo

96 at BP because we don't get 98 up here, BP is the closest gassy, and I use the discount vouchers from New World plus AA points (nearly get free AA membership). Use 98 when in Auckland as still go to BP out of habit and most only have 98. $ per mile on 98 is same as 95/96 as economy slightly beter. No noticeable power increase.

Bonnet - Flathead screwdriver through passenger side grill between haedlight and kidney. A round catch with a slot in it - put screwdriver in and turn. Glovebox - a real bitch. I undid the hinge and all the trim panels and then used my rubber-like arms to slowly undo the screws holding the bracket the latch hooks into. Took awhile and may be an easier way.

I was going to this weekend, but didn't make it.

Yep

Must be fake - its a Lada Niva - good 4x4's but not that good - lack power.

Don't we all! You have good taste - welcome!

Put both nuts on, then tighten one and loosen the other simultaneously to jam them together as tight as you can. Then they won't turn up the bolt shaft. Alternatively, buy the right sized male allen socket from your nearest tool shop.

I'm a n00b.

Same as Gus's funnily enough. About a 35mm drop. Used to be 50mm drop though which was a problem. To be honest now I wonder if I wouldn't hit half of the rocks etc I do if the guard wasn't there as it is lower than the sump of course. Not game to try it though.

Only e36 ti rears fit e30's and ride height is different, but I don't know how much. so if your car is not a 316ti or 318ti then they won't fit an e30.

e30's are notoriously tail happy in the wet with stock suspension and tyres.

ooo ooo oooo aaahaaahaaah Mine is on due to bitter experience. Then again I live in a rural area - I hit the sump guard on rocks on mates driveways every week. In the city prob wouln'dt need it.

Not "bad" just increases heat and wear on components and fluid life. Neutral and park are fine.

For the first time since my first Coastal I'm not involved and not even going to make it to the finish party. So I'm whetting my apetite the best I can by watching the GPS tracking. For those interested: Coastal live GPS tracking.

If you have basic mechanical skills (can change brake pads, put in lowering springs, change shocks, etc) then you can handle a manual conversion. It is longer, harder, and more potential to stuff up, but it is basically an extension of th skills you learnt doing the above. I did my first one after knowing how to do an oil change and helping someone else lower a car. Took me ages, and I made lots of n00b mistakes, but in the end it was all fine, properly done and the car is still going hard 40,000kms and a new owner later. The trick is to do your research, plan, plan, plan, and ask questions as soon as you hit an obstacle. Someone else will have had the same problem, and will be able to help. If you ask nicely Good luck.

I like it. Potential Problems: Human Rights Activists Black Market Urine lol. You could make sh*t loads. Tax free. So tax payers money would go to people not following the rules and buying black market urine. So taxpayer money would be essentially going to black market dealers who don't pay tax....

Yeah, there are 4 bimmersport members that base themselves in Keri.

Scott Durnley (Waiapa Auto I think he call himself now) out at Waipapa is an e30 legend, or you could chop off your arm and maybe a leg too and go see Murdoch Motors BMW on corner Cobham Road and Mill Lane.

Any e30 diff will work. Replacements only come along every so often. You need to remove the diff and have a look inside to see where the problem is. They can be rebuilt. Having the rebuilt LSD is preferable to downgrading to an open diff, although that would be the cheaper option.

Well, considering that the government want to remove the tax on it and load it onto regular fuel instead, my guess is that yes, relatively, it will be cheap, and if you can't run it, the price of the other fuel will be going up.

Also older ('60s) mercedes.

SLowly getting through the Vehicle and Engine Risks report. It seems to say that a lower blend than E10 (Like E3 or even E5) would be safe in almost all petrol vehicles. You could try runnign your car for a year 1x tank of regular, when half full, top up with E10, then run car till almost empty and refill with regular and repeat. Your car would essentially have around a 3-5% blend of ethanol at any one time and after a year, if no probs, could consider upping the percentage if you were brave. Aussie list of safe cars I'd be careful on an e30 or m20-powered e34, but e36's and m50-powered e4's and newer should be OK. At your own risk of course.

Yup, but cheap, esp. if just doing your own car and your mates - not exactly lots of use.

Yup - the boot spoiler is a standard item, and I can't see any side skirts. If the price is right, then go for it. I think it would be a decent car to own for $3k, but no more. Look for rust, especially around the sunroof, and behind the firewall lining near the fuse box. Also behind the window trims, and under the doors. The South African cars are know for rust problems, although I know of a few that have no rust at all, so it pays to check. Make sure the cruise control works, and check the condition of the auto fluid, the way the box shifts, and any strange noises. Inspect the rubber engine mounts, look for leaks in the boot, especially above the battery compartment. Reach down under the battery and feel for water or dampness. Check for play in the steering and any weird vibrations esp. when under light and then heavy braking. Listen for unusual noises when moving. Check all electrics. Enquire when cambelt and tensioner were replaced. Water pump should have been done at the same time. Check for smoke on startup when cold, under load, and when warm rev the engine to around 2500rpm for a minute then give it a good stab on the gas and check for any smoke. Pull the spark plugs out and look for anythig unusual. Check the colour of fluids. Ask if the car has ever overheated. That should get you started.

Looks like a deal. Although, obviously it only works on macpherson struts, so you still need something for ryour trailing arm rears if you can't just pull them out. I swapped a set of the small, cheap ones that you can use on the car for an e30 torque converter. (Retail around $50) Does the trick, and hook them up to my rattle gun and I can have springs out in a few miinutes. What you are looking at looks good, just giving you some options though.