bravo

It will only devalue it if it is a full msport car with LSD etc in original condition. If you plan on doing other mods, or it already has some, then keeping the weaves won't make much of a difference. If it were me, knowing the value of the weaves, store them, run your 17's and just put the weaves back on when you sell it down the line.

So fukn tough - I love it.

Looks like the inside of Wills e36 before he finished the wiring.

x999999999999

++ Jochen has been a member here for some time now and the boy is a f**kn magician when it comes to nav.

1st time I've actually seen an iX off road lol.

You're thinking of b00b.

Around 160mm at lowest point ±10mm or so.

Hey Shelley. I think what 320 guy is saying is: You are a n00b. :P Hah Best thread in a while.

I usually design the box so that it is a snug fit and won't move once installed, but in the case where you already have a box, I've seen a few options. One I liked the most though, was a piece of webbing strap (like on a backpack or school bag), fatstened to the box or car and then a dome button at the other end so it is just a case of press on and its fixed. These domes wear out though, but there are dozens of other options like "stay-puts" used on canvas awnings or clips and buckles. The strap and buckle are black and should blend in and look ok. You should be able to get way with one or two attached to the sides.

You're right, but his car is e21. e21's have the K mechanical injection on the m20. So yes, going the newer (I can never sort out the version numbers) post '88 motronic motor and ecu, you'll be sorted as regards those sensors.

Summary of those previos alarm threads: 4-star: Recommended Dynatron D4800 or Mongoose M60 5 Star: Recommended Dynatron D5800 or Monoose M80 Others are also OK though. The consensus was that the installers skill mattered more than the alarm brand, and don't advertise which alarm you have - put a sticker from a different alarm on your window to confuse the crooks. A bad install will make a good alarm rubbish and vice versa.

Please think about it before touching the keyboard. If you have enough people, you can produce food, goods, whatever locally and thus save on transport. A small, isolated island nation with limited local production relying mostly on exports in one or two industries and tourism for its economy must transport almost everything. In the UK economies of scale allow much more local produce to be sold locally. More fuel tax is not the magic solution to woo people to biofuels. The majority of nz would alread buy a car that could run on it if they could regardless of it being cheaper as with the exception of enthusiasts of particular models, noone drives a 10yo clapped out import by choice. The government is f**ktarded if it thinks its going to force those who currently can't afford a car upgrade to upgrade by making it more expensive to own the car they can barely afford now. No matter how cheap biofuel is compared to regular - do you think even most people on this site can afford a newish car? Count the e30's.

Yes but in the UK they have a larger population base, so can transport goods with greater economies of scale, and they have cheaper transport like rail.

Increasing fuel tax to the point it becomes painful will not work. There are a huge amount of commercial vehicles that will be forced to pass on the costs to the consumer. The price of everything rises. The cost of livving rises. Wages rise to meet this. There's a name for this trend??? Oh thats right - inflation. Increased petrol tax doesn't help congestion, or the environment, it helps inflation. JP - if your tongue is in your cheek I forgive you, but personal insurance? Suing people for harm? Move to America. But I agree, ACC shouldn't be levied out of your pay as part of income tax, your fuel as part of fuel excise, your car as part of your registration (and then not once, but 2, 3, 4, 5 times if you have more than one car, a motorbike or two, etc, etc) You can only drive/ride one of them at a time, so why pay acc on all at once?

NZ Herald As if it weren't bad enough that if we want to run a decent octane fuel in our cars we have to pay more, now they want to tax higher octane fuels even more to remove the tax on a low octane biofuel alternative. Time to write to your MP.

Those are cool. Yes they will fit fine Em.

You wouldn't want to be in it when that happened.

Good Luck with the sale Pam. The saddest thing is going to be no more violet e36 cruising the streets of takas late at night full of blokes with the melodic renditions of Aqua blasting out the windows.

I'm the one in the foreground of the recovery vid commenting that my door is f**ked lol.

You TUbe of recovery River crossing

Pics: (video below).

There are plenty of public access tracks around the place, but your local club is a good bet. We go on some club runs, but ,ostly just a group of mates head out. Club runs are to obusy for me (like 30+ vehicles - everything takes too long). I'm a member of a club as they lobby gov't groups to keep tracks open, go on some fun runs, you meet other 4 wheelers to go on private runs with, etc, etc - like bimmersport in a way, but not online.

You can buy a truck for as litle as $2k or as much as you want. Road legal is best as otherwise you need a tow vehicle too. My vehicle is road legal 2.8L turbo diesel. Manual and auto both have their advantages, it is personal preference - not like in the car market where manual is king. You need selectable low ratio, not full time 4WD. Newer self-locking hubs are OK, older ones give trouble. MINIMUM gear: first aid kit, fire extinguisher(s), spade/shovel, axe, snatch strap, high tensile shackles, high tensile snatch hooks bolted or welded to the chassis, basic tools. Optional: winch, high-lift jack, roll cage, bull bars, air compressor, air pressure guage, tree protector, additional strops/straps, chainsaw, land anchor, etc. The only thing we don't carry out of everything listed above is land anchor. Also, BARE MINIMUM good mud tyres. NOT All Terrains, NOT 50/50, but proper Mud Terrains. My truck cost around $6k as it is with half cage, all the above equipment, plus around $1500 for tyres. It is what is called a "Club Truck" which is a term used to describe a tough truck with all the required safety and recovery gear, and set up so it meets the minimum requirement for competition, but no extras as seen on competition vehicles like diff locks and independent braking systems, etc. It means I can enter almost any event/run, and could compete if I added a helmet, but would not be competitive at national competition level. You can get out there running for around $3-4k though.

Short is better IMO as break-over angle is less, often approach and departure angles are less, and better turning radius, and often narrower too. Long wheelbase can someties mean you have more traction as you can get two wheels on hardstuff more often as they are further apart. I would never buy long wheelbase. The little suzukis are one of the best offroad vehicles straight off the shelf IMO. More pics and vids to come tonight. We go every couple of weeks, but usually only 1 or 2 vehicles and no passengers so no-one to take pics.