bravo

Well I worked it out this way - 2nd hand 'box = $500-700 2nd hand 325 engine $900+ depending on km's. So thats $1500 plus with no guarantee and something close to 200kms. Or say $1500-2k for a damaged 325 with good engine and box that I could part the rest out. I'd have to do fluids and cambelt on those too and there would be way less life in the 'box and clutch. But I prob wouldn't have to worry so much about gaskets (maybe) and other random things I haven't thought of. So if it goes well it's a great price as all up installed (by me) with new cambelt and gaskets etc and so on I'm looking a little over 3k for what is essentially as good as a recond' motor and new 'box. So its about right price wise IMO. And the idea at this stage is once it's going I could start looking for a 320 shell such as Andy (e30stz) and put my old motor in it and flick it off to try and recover costs. Anyone know if I'm likely to run into any probs with radiator hoses not matching up (thanks andy ) and also I plan to leave the oil cooler lines plugged up (as I know it's possible to run it removed and I don't have one in my 320 so it's easier that way). Keep comments coming. My other thought was that I could do an m50 swap and have been planning that, but this is much easier for a first time swap and will ultimately cost less. I know I'm going to end up with 20 odd HP less than m50, but that can be for next time maybe.

They're only willing to give a full waranty if it sells for "retail" i.e $3-4k. Happy to sell "subject to" blah blah, but no waranty as such.

For those of you who troll TM you'll have seen the m20b25 with getrag on sale that had done only 80kms (not 80,000). I bid on the auction but was outbid by a "young" bidder who then pulled out. The vendor has since offered the motor to me for my highest bid of $2200. I plan on putting the motor and 'box complete into my car and then disposing of my m20b20 and getrag 240 5spd at a later date. The engine was originally swapped from Steve Mosen for a 2002 about 12 years ago and has been stored by the current owner ( a workshop that service BMW's among others in the Eastern Auckland region). It has been properly dry-stored and oil has been poured down the bore and into the cylinders thru the spark-plug holes from time to time and it will turn over by hand. (not seized). Compressions are even but no figures. They are willing to sell subject to it starting (but obvioulsy until it is in a car with all sensors hooked up there is no way to tell how well it will run). Cam belt will need replacing obviously and it has no AFM or ecu. Comes complete with power steer pump, air con, alternator, water pump, loom and mounts. Any comments, warnings, advice ect etc. I have negotiated 24hrs to confirm purchase before it goes back onto the open market. Cheers.

Wheels and tints very cool. Noice!

13B conversion then Or maybe candy apple red and sacked on some huuuuuge! deep dish polished alloys and m tech 2.

I'm with the satin or matt black.

Hey man - are you the guy who was selling the auto from this motor on Trademe? I was the one who asked for your number - I been meaning to call you - still keen as to give you a hand mate. Been looking for an m50 myself but got several different options on the cards, so holding off. I don't know of anyone on here who has done it, but I have seen m50 e30's come up for sale every so often so someone must have done them here before.

run low boost - like 6 or 7 lb. Should still go pretty alright I reckon - but since I haven't tried it on any BMW engine its all speculation...

The discussion is not m3 the discussion is "motorsport"-spec 3 series - not "M" car at all. An m3 is a totally different car. We're talking about things like kit, susp. etc, not motorsport-inspired (or in the case of the e30 m3 -homologated) cars.an 325im or m325i is essentially the "sport" model if you will. the m3 is a race-bred machine. The chassis and body of a m325 is identical to a 325. an m3 is not. The question I believe was how do you identify between a factory m-kitted car and a post-purchase m kitted car? And that has been more or less answered. It is possible to pay extreme attention to detail and create a post-purchase m235 that is indistinguishable in every aspect from the factory ones. The thing is, most people don't pay that much attention to detail - it may have most of the bits, but it prob won't have everything. Although further confusion is added by the additional "sport" and SE (Special Equipment) models as well as the little 318iS with it's badass front lip. And then there's the little problem of not all factory motorsports having the same options - so is it genuine or not? - does it matter? And as Angus said - if you look at enough of them you get a feel for it and you can usually tell. And yes, there are definately 4-door FL m325's - I don't know about pre-FL.

yeah my last garage had a concrete floor - nowhere near as much dirt in the hair.

Nz's smartest bimmersporter?

pfft! pussy. do it like me with 2 ramps, 2 axel stands, and a couple of bottle jacks on a dirt floor - nothing like a black face from engine grease, black hands from same and brown hair from dirt floor - colour of water in shower a interesting shade of blck - never had the balls to have a bath and see all that sh*t sloshing around me.

You can make up that bracket pretty easily with any old bit of steel plate and a drill if you get stuck - I did. Just roughly work out dimensions, whip it up and it'll be about right - tickle it up with a hammer :thumb: Sounds rangi, but if you do it right it works fine. I used some angle iron used for shelving in vans - already had the holes, but even some aluminium would do it.

Another history of the 3 series (for those of you too lazy to click on the link to see what it is).

If you have a twin exhaust and you put one coby facing one way on one pipe and another facing the other way on the other you get a two-tone exhaust but I just realised you've got a 318 so prob single pipe - so either straight pipe or single coby for sound - should make some improvement.

Until they change the law you'll still pass a WOF providing it's not too loud. In previous exhaust threads the generally considered "best" approach is the two coby's with the option of reversing one so yuo get a dual-tone, but a straight pipe would work fine.

The motorsport models did. And it's also possible that someone put one on yours, but chances are that its just an open diff and coincidental spinnage. Jack it up and test it.

Read s68-79 of the Land Transport Act.

Legal argumentaltionalisation. Experience in a certain situation most certainly qualifies someone to make speculation on what they belive the most likely outcome is. That is what statisticians do for a living. it is what the census is about, it however measures a population, not a sample. I'm as qualified to make an argument about the most likely outcome as a election poll is about the outcome of an election - they're never right, but they're often close to the mark - and that is my point. Everyday people on this forum dispense advice on what people should do to their cars and who that will likely affect preformance - their qualification to do that is same as mine here. 3 scholars travel to scotland for the first time and driving through the countryside they see a brown cow. The first scholar says "We can thus determine that there are cows in scotland and they are brown" The second scholar says "No all we can determine is that there are cows in scotland of which some are brown" The third scholar says "No all that we can determine is that there is at least one cow inscotland and that that cow is brown" I am the third scholar - It is possible in some cases to get off DIC if the lawyer uses a defense based on police proceedure as long as there are proceedural errors. No more, no less.

It doesn't - I wasn't trying to provide a qualification as to my abitlity to dispense legal advice, rather I was providing a qualification for my conjecture as to the most likely avenue a lawyer would in my opinion pursue when defending a drink driving case.I believe that observation of previous drink driving cases (or EBA cases as they are known) that ended variously in conviction, discharge without conviction, and withdrawal of charges gives me sufficient qualification to speculate as to what sort of case a good lawyer might form as to a poor lawyer. My "legal advice" however is simply that - advice - which if you read essentially says "get a lawyer or plead guilty" and then simply provides information on the court processes which you can easily confirm by talking to any lawyer or court bus-boy. At most I suggested a possible avenue for defense but in no way endorsed it with any qualification, and in no way provided any likelihood of success. Just telling. How do you like my Northland "bush Lawyer" style? Pwns your dragon style n00b. Why helping? because people make mistakes and stolen is evidently showing remorse at his actions and although he may deserve the punishment he gets, it sounds to me as though he has more or less been scared straight already.

1) you are wrong - some countries will not allow entry to anyone convicted of drink driving. 2) Only a dipshit 2-bit lawyer will "rabbit on with excuses ..." as any lawyer worth his/her salt know that there is no reason to drive over the limit - they will usually manipulate the law to get you off on a tchnicality or poke enough holes in the police's actions that either the police will drop it or their eveidence won't stand up. I know - I've seen it happen many a time to people I know and during a period where I had to go and watch district court cases for a study I was doing for university.

I should have said "remanded on bail" you won't be remanded in custody. Basically entering no plea will give you a couple of extra weeks to suss yourself out - any duty solicitor will recommend this to you. The application fee for a limited license is low, but if you want to ensure you get it you really should pay a lawyer unless you know what you are doing (hence the $1 - 1.5k) as they know what to say to the court (and more importantly what NOT to say). DIC convictions can restrict passage into Canada and some other countries - won't affect Australia and there is a time limit for how long it will affect you. After 6 months you'll get your license back with no limitations and all of your demerits wiped entirely, but good luck getting insurance for awhile. The police make proceedural errors all the time - you'd be surprised how many drunk drivers get off this way. Edit: BTW its 3 months mandatory loss, but you may receive 6 months - pray for 3 months and hope you get a good duty solicitor. Take one of your parents with you - it looks good to the court if your family is there to support you - the solicitor should make a point of making the judge aware you have a family member with you.

f**k my boss for making me work late - I missed the deadline and scored a whopping 8 points based on the random picks option. I'm still not doing too badly since its been 4 weeks and I only made the picks myself once. (week 3 when I caned you all and jumped well up the table). I've got no more random-pick weeks left so if I forget again I'm out.

This is the legal ramifications/process - the advice I am about to dispense is the best way to go about keeping your license it does NOT mean I endorse drink-driving. At your first court appearance enter "no plea" (rather than guilty/not guilty) get one of the duty solictors at the court to do it for you - go early for your court appearance and ask at the counter where to find the duty solicitors - you usually have to put your name on a list.. You will be remanded for a week or two for a second hearing where you will be required to enter a plea. Get a good criminal lawyer who specialises in DIC (look in the yellow pages and ring around as prices vary). They should tell you you have two options - enter a guilty plea in which case you WILL lose your license for six months and get a fine or enter not guilty and defend it and hope you get off. If you don't you'll get a bigger sentence probably. Defednding a DIC will cost somewhere in the order of $3k-5k. Your lawyer will get all of the police notebook entries from the night and all of the paperwork and go over it with a fine-tooth comb. If your lucky the police will have made a proceedural error and you'll get off on a technicality (like failing to give you a full un-interrupted 10 mins to decide if you want a blood test etc). But chances are slim. If your lawyer doesn't find anything you change your not guilty to guilty at the status hearing and you'll walk away with the same sentence as above and a $1-2k lawyers fee. if your lawyer does find something you may get off but have the bigger lawyers fee. Finally - if you do lose it (most likely) you can apply for a work license/limited license (about $1.5k) which you'll need a lawyer to help you apply for and you'll need to prove it'll cost you your job not to have it - i.e you need a letter from your boss saying he'll fire you if you don't get a work license. Good Luck Don't be a dick - don't drink-drive. and before anyone asks - I've never had a DIC conviction, I just know a thing or two about the court process. Edit: Michael Harte is a QC and considered the best in the business -not cheap, but your best chance.

Link WTF?