hybrid

Sweet dude! .... Interesting stuff about the gearbox... Was thinking that was something I want to start learning, gearboxes and diffs. There is no reason you cant home repair these things. (not that my car needs any of it) just a cool skill to have.

I would go have a wee chat with the e46 GTR guys in the open series.

The main thing is clean threads for the bolts and mating surfaces ... I brass brushed and brass 'pipe cleanered' my threads first .. (brass doesnt damage the / scratch thread surfaces) Something I learnt when doing offroading after several years, I had my wheels nearly coming off after a muddy day out .. dirty threads + bad torque settings = bad.

Hate to say it ... but every other modern car on the raod suffers from the same sh*t. Just a sign of the times.

Imagine if a modern BMW lasted 82 years!

I will chase him up for you..

Just a case of not using new bolts and reusing the old ones. I went over the top and lock tighted mine with LT blue. I made sure I cleaned off the standard BMW yellow wax first.

Nah, still keep up with it ... I would just build it as your hoon wagon that you can track day. Which I personally reckon is the best thing for your build situtation tony. It's then an easy step to turn it into a race car after that.

I'll write this from another perspective. I'll also try write this not directed at jack but a guide for people who are struggling with what they want from a car. Building a car or modifying a car is never a cheap experience for those who aren't in the industry. The expenses can run out of control fairly easy. Or at east sneak up on you as all the big ticket stuff like engines / gear boxes etc etc is easy to work out, however what seems like small stuff can sometimes end up costing just as much, especially if your not blessed with fabrication skills. Paying someone 50-120per hour can run quite hot pretty quick. With all that said, Really working out what you want from your car is easier than you think. Most people actually don’t want a race car, They want the fun of track days with their mates and the fun of being able to drive the car on the road when ever they want. Setting up and maintaining a car, attending most race meets, paying for travel for your car, trailer hire, accommodation costs, paying for fuel of your car and the tow vehicle, paying for breakages and maybe panel work after a race meet gets pretty expensive and that thing you thought was fun to start with, actually starts to become a chore and impact your lifestyle outside of 'car time'. Most people (and I too 5-6years ago was the same) forget about the end goal and get tied up in the romance of the build. This is why you see a lot of people selling their cars after they have finished it. They give it a bash and the realities of going for a full blown caged race car kick in. Myself, I got caught up in earning fairly decent coin, starting something with the intention of spend some decent money on it. Resscession kicked in mid build, contracting market dried up, got a full time job instead and my budget suddenly went down a few more zeros. Also my band commitments at the time where insane. So I still wanted to 'do it right' so the only way I could do that was take my time. A lot of people ask me when am I putting a cage in my e30? And I tell them, why would I do that? .. it would mean I cant drive my car up to Omaha for a drive with the missus, or couldn’t drive myself and some luggage somewhere, It would mean instead of carrying my slicks to the track days in the car I would need to hire a trailer and take our daily to the track for the day. My point is, I can still have the fun at the track with my mates with out it impacting my life too much. I think realistically this is what a lot of people want when they’re getting into it. What Jamez says is true, get yourself a good platform to start from, spend some money on a second set of tires for the track, up rate your suspension and brakes, buy some safety gear (helmet, fire extinguisher, suit / boots / gloves) .. and go out and improve your times. Its a hell of a lot of fun and not too taxing on the wallet. At the end of it all, if you still want to get into racing then you can ... My goals at the start of building the car: Build a e30 s50b32 turbo with 600whp cos I liked the look of some of the stuff being done in overseas. My goals at the end: A fast, reliable and legal car I can drive in the weekends on the road and with a quick 1 hour session to change over it to track spec for track day fun. I’m so glad I ended up where I did with it. I suppose I didn’t really go into the slightly modded road car that you drive around ... but after a while it gets boring and not practical (security / parking issues / harder to drive daily cos of rough roads etc)

Nah, there more played out than the only two e30/s50b32s in the country. Ti sounds like a good idea. the b30 engine would work quite well with the small body.

As others have said, looks like you have e39 74mm hub centric bore wheels instead of 72.5mm bore. The wheels are only using the lugs as centering which is fine for lower speeds however has the speed gets up the wheels start to vibrate. BMW use a hub centric bore that the wheel sits on to center itself properly. Mechanically is a far better system than wheel studs but it needs to be right. You can either get new wheels with the correct bore or ideally have someone like arrow wheels or brugar engineering press 74 to 72.5 ring sleeves in, or get hold of some rings from jono @ Mag & Tire Direct (forum sponsor). If you got the car from a dealer, you might want to try going back to them stateing the car shouldnt have been sold with those wheels on it as its actually causing problems with the vehicle and get them to pay to have it recetified.

Looks like its gone for good now ... noobies doing 24v conversions, it just got a lot harder for them now this is gone. e30zone is ok, but lots of dodginess goes on because of laxed UK laws on modding cars.

removing the trans cooler or transmission 'heat exchanger' is a bad idea in the long term. Your tran fluid will heat up a a lot more and start to break down earlier. On more modern cars when this unit fails the ECU puts the car into a form of limp mode which will hold revs right up to 4200rpm before changing gear until the trans-fluid is back to normal operating temprature. Im un-sure if an e28 has the same logic as more modern BMWs with auto gearboxes.

Im not really sure why its such a dark area. Its a v8 with single vanos so varible timing on the intake ports. The block is the same as the s62 so you can bore it out and run 'oversized' pistons (increase the displacement) and increase the stroke. You can also increase compression and if you have access to the parts run a ITB setup as in the s62. The head is different however to the s62 as its does not run double vanos. (varible exhaust port timing) It you can tune the ECU to gain small amounts of power but all of this is a bit of a waste of time with out modifying the engine properly. yes ladies and gents, its like any other NA engine. There is no silver bullet. Start with cold air and free flow exhuast and remove restrictive mufflers and noise reduction x-pipes. Then increase flow with a great set of flow matched headers and run a lightened flywheel (for manuals only), change intake manifold to a M62B44 non TU for more flow and maybe going for more agreesive cams and a retune. next steps are pulling the engine apart and start working on the rotating mass (stroked, higher comp pistons, bore out to and retune, at this stage you will be looking at increasing the injector size and most likely fuel pump upgrade. then your next step is the head, enlarging the ports and oversized valves, replace intake manifold and run s62 ITBs and retune. Alpha-N ? and ditch the MAF. you can do all this again to an s62 for more gains, running low friction pistons, sleeving the block blah blah, but you starting to talk race engine stuff here. Or yeah, supercharge / turbo it

Brendons run http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cho0v7seJbo

mean, congrats dude!

thats what happens when you play with fiberglass kids.

yays ... play friend has been fixed!

Just got this from e3024v.com ... get in there if you want any last minute m50 conversion info ! .. Its a pitty ... the data should be archived somewhere.

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=27126

Headphones/speakers on boys. And allow some time... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEOKck7WWvU Enjoy

hehe happy birthday fella.

e39 540 = $140 per week @ about 350-400ks from an 80ltr tank for BP Ultimate/Mobil 8000 per week and a nice round economy of 15.9 per 100k nuts? not really .. I sit in town traffic all week. And I drive like a nanna. Its all about where and how you drive

It doesnt really go down far enough to see the edge of the rear wheel, and cuts in when you dont need it when reverving.. I prefer to use the memory 3 setting to manually do it.

Lots of brands out there. I bought a Bell Sport4 for around $630 .. v5 is out now. Its a nice helmet with all the features that will see me right for a few years. (nice range of visors etc etc) Simpson make some nice helmets as do Arai. sky is the limit really .. right up to the carbon fiber jobbies.