yng_750

that was very cheap so no wonder it failed. depends on whether your paint is metalic and how much trouble it is to get the old paint off. cheap painter will charge less but will just paint the panel. better painter will charge more but will blend it in with the next panel (especially important on the roof) i would say $1000 would get a very nicely done job. alot of places run on about $300 per panel in my limited experiance but a roof will cost more as its larger

boyles law refers to gas not vapors.

generally iron blocks and alloy radiators but can be brass water pump impellers etc. just remember it doesn't disappear any alloy that wears off the radiator is being deposited somewhere on the engine. not enough to make a difference mind you

yes flash point decreases with altitude this graph is from a test of jet fuel used in an CAA investigation.

location?

Octane rating is a measure of a fuels resistance to explosion. (engine need a slow burn) as you get closer to a fuels flash point it gets easier to explode rather than burn. So if the lower pressure lowered the flash point it would likely lower the octane rating. that being said the fuel is ignited in the engine where it has compression so the outside air pressure will have no affect on the octane etc. The fact that much less oxygen will be entering the engine will have a markable negative effect on power.

smart fridges etc connect to these and run mostly when power is cheap. one big issue the commerce commission has is the meters being installed in nz have this capability blocked, unlike the rest of the world. so no help there.

good to hear. i love the new penrite, great quality and because it comes direct its very well priced.

ive seen a few people use the ones that you wind in the bolt and it pushes it out. in my experience they will usually break before pushing it out, i would be putting good load on then giving it a whack with a hammer to shock it slightly looser, then winding more load on. as always sit the nut flush with the end so you cant hurt the threads. the lever type separator is $39.99 at supercheap and the fork is $29.99 And as noted load up suspension before torquing the bolts up as it holds the center of the bush in place. i managed to torque mine with the car sitting on the ground but would have been much easier to lower the front wheels onto blocks just be careful under the car. hehe good load...

Just as a side note you can do the same voltage test on brake fluid to see if a galvanic reaction is occuring due to excessive water levels in the fluid. any reading over 0.300 volts is excessive

im surprised bmw havent invented a volatage sensor for the coolant system to tell you if you are generating power haha.

PS dipstick extends out of the cap. I believe you cant use standard p/s fluid, i got differing opinions when i needed a top up so ended up playing it safe with some fully synthetic stuff for $32 a litre.

doesnt go to show anything about bmw coolant really if you actually think about it. all coolants would perform the same in that situation. demineralised water is cheap as chips. I have had an e34 where the head had no coolant galleries left in it due to them using bore water which clogged it with calcium deposits on the alloy. earthed radiators deteriorate when your car is running and flowing electricity. Chemical issues such as this work away at it 24/7.

my 740i (same suspension setup) took alot of effort to get it out, i beat the hub then used penatrant, then had to use a fork, that got it but took alot of beating. i would recomend using a proper penetrant (not wd40) and giving it plenty of time to penetrate. hehe penetrate...

Just a heads up guys. Supercheapauto is doing a one day special on penrite 10W40 full synthetic. Latest API SN grade, ACEA A3/B4 , Jaso MA BMW LL-98, LL-01 should be compatible with all bmws except for those requiring DPF safe LL-04 oils. (diesels) 5L bottle down to $38.95 almost half price. Only for club+ customers, though if you are not a member its quick and only $5 to sign up. This oil is up to the same spefications and ratings as the castrol edge that costs $99.95 per 5l bottle.

not sure exactly, seems reasonable for them to charge if they have lost $500 a week from the lock being damaged. i would start there. if they have had no loss from the incident then it should not go any further, if they have had a loss then you can begin argument over liability etc but i doubt it will go that far. your employer should have liability insurance, of which a payout around that level shouldnt raise premiums or charge an excess. so at worst they can give you a formal warning or similar, they could use it for an excuse to fire you if they already dont like you but we dont know those specifics. i would start on my first point, if you are llooking bad from there talk to a lawyer or CAB if you cant afford a lawyer, will save alot of heartache. (people on here may be able to answer but probably not without levels of personal details you are not allowed to share.

damn that looks good

you can buy thread repair kits that use an metal epoxy, very different stuff to normal epoxy glues you buy for odd jobs. as glenn said a heli coil would be your best option. possibly best to take it to someone who has done it before, amateur work can just make it worse

I think its probably fair that they used supercats. my GF had them on her car and while not being great they werent to bad. It could well have been a point of negotiation if you thought of it first but they are at least bridgestone not something chinese, so they are probably not taking the piss just using the most common tyre available. would be worth asking if they could swap them for something better if they havent been used, even if you pay the difference. but i doubt they will go for that.

no picture attached? not that i can see anyway

a friend had one just like this, he was told you can fit lifters from a later model bmw 4cyl engine as they are better and would likely have less milage on them. not sure if there is any truth to that, and it doesnt help if the cam is worn

yea bit of a risk when its that far from home. is this an e30? on trademe? i know someone who might be interested.

Often its caused by poor oil choice, as engine wear people go thicker on the oil but lifters often dont like it, i had a mitsi that rattled on its 20w50 oil but going back to the recomended 5w40 made it heaps quieter. If all the rockers are rattling i wouldnt worry as its likely oil viscosity or similar, if a single rocker is making noise it may be something physically broken or a single lifter blocked up. Would suggest looking into an oil change in welly before you leave for piece of mind and the right oil might shut it up. if its only audible at idle its normal, if you can hear it at 50kph it may be bad. hope something in there helps you

yup that too. i would be checking workshops are using a dpf safe oil (also known as a low ash oil) it aint cheap but does the job. Supercheap sell the penrite enviro+ range of either 5W30 or 5W40 this covers all euro car factory specs for bmw merc audi vw porsche etc etc runs between $85 and $100 per 5l bottle, so not cheap but neither is a DPF, many dealers selling them for in excess of $10,000. If you have to do a regeneration with additives or if its going to take a long time to do it will likely need an oil change after due to diesel contamination.

i know m52 guys often drill a hole through the nut and use safety wire to stop the sprocket nut rattling loose, might be worth looking into, at very least use a layer of red threadlocker on the thread