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DRTDVL

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Everything posted by DRTDVL

  1. was thinking could your speedo problems be dry solder joins?
  2. Not those if your only doing bmw parts.. Nothing worse than hitting a website claiming a wide range products from the implications of the company name only to find they are a brand specialist..
  3. Mike / CamB: Thats what i was think, thanks for confirming that. I was always told to work on the order: 1) Fuild, 2) Pads, 3) Brake Cooling, 4) Bigger brakes I wasn't sure how much of the problem could be overcome by better brake cooling as i'm assuming there isn't any factory. Camb: how to the skyline calipers compare to the Rx-7's and if you know or not the lotus elise brakes
  4. Its not so much the caliper weight but the disc weight. I don't know i just know a lot of people who waste a lot of money on big brakes when decent pads is all they need. By decent i'm talking brands like Endless, Pagid, Carbone Lorraine not mintex or ebc. CamB - Forgive me for possibly being way off, wouldn't the only reason you need bigger brakes in a more powerful car be because of the heat that the extra braking time to slow down from higher speeds? If the grip levels are the same between a car with 250 and a car with 500hp how could bigger brakes that can overcome the level of grip easier (lockups become easier) be an advantage unless the extra heat generated becomes an issue? *asking to learn more*
  5. Not really... I spent 3 grand sorting out just my rear brakes. Read this: http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...c=36116&hl= Really you don't need much force to brake the drivetrain of your car, this is evident on how easy it is to lock up on slippery surfaces (think wet grass/ice/mud/clay). You will generate the greatest amount of braking just before your wheels lockup, this becomes determinate on aerodynamic downforce, tyre grip, etc... the amount of force need to lock a full race slick will be different than a cheap linglong road tyre - so the amount of braking required is dictated by the grip levels of your car not the power.
  6. You don't need bigger brakes with more power. F1 cars run 13inch wheels. You need better compound pads(which can be costly - $300+ a set), they typically have a higher co-efficient of friction which will slow you down quicker. Heat becomes the problem. F1 cars run trick compounds and cooling ducts to get around this. Weight is a big big factor - disc's alone will weight a lot more. In pug land going from 266 to 283mm discs = roughly 2 kg per corner not including the extra weight of the bigger caliper or pads. I upsized my brakes all round to improve the braking and installed an adjustable bias valve to control the braking distribution, i used factory stuff which has noticably impacted on the handling of the car. I'll be looking at two piece discs and new calipers to replace the stuff i have now. Oh i also had the problem where heat was disipating fantastically from the brakes, but do to smaller clearances between the wheel and the caliper/disc the heat was being absorbed by the wheel, increasing the psi in the tyres more than i wanted again affecting the handling. Before you start doing mod's to your car do a lot of reading like this whole pages links: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/tech_white_papers.shtml
  7. Don't they have a limited mileage policy? I know the 205 is with them and they don't cover day to day driving in it
  8. Done a lot of work to the pug brakes and the first thing i'll ask is why are you wanting bigger brakes? Do you have heat problems? Can you lock your wheels? You will run into a whole bunch of other problems when you upgrade the front brakes. Increasing mechanic advantage by larger dia brakes and larger total area piston calipers while change your brake bias forward upsetting the the car under braking. A larger area piston will increase the force working on the pad/disc. If you increase the master cylinder to overcome the squishy pedal you will change the ratio of master piston size to rear brake total piston area decreasing the effectiveness of the rear brakes even more so. I'd look at better pads and fluid first. Also larger brakes = more weight
  9. DRTDVL

    WTF!

    Personally i would have thought it would have been a better idea to message the mod's/admin group as a whole to address the problem rather airing a vent on the forum for everyone to see. Including new members which could cause them to not longer wish to be members, due to the perceived attitudes/feel of the club.
  10. 1) As stated a specific standard your car needs to be - read this: WOF Guide 4) There is a extensive vetting process - more information: Guns baby - they go BOOM! 5) lots of taxes, GST (sales tax basically), tax on fuel, booze, everything really... don't wine it is what it is. 6.) could be helpful: http://www.emigratenz.org/
  11. I've only heard very bad things about NAC when it comes time to making claims.
  12. DRTDVL

    ITB M42

    You where commenting that your mesh sizings had a very large impact on your results... If you want to we could throw solidworks on my grunt box at work and crunch out some small mesh.
  13. Ducteater: I've had the opposite side of ACC i had my shoulder surgeries declined by ACC despite having surgeon and GP letter debunking their claims. End of the day i've got full private medical cover that i pay for as i can't count on getting my potential injuries covered by ACC. I was at a doctors with a friend getting his arm looked at as it was hurting him a lot, the Doctor told him to just make a story up and it will be covered by ACC, so if he needs time off work they will pay for it and my friend wouldn't need to use his A/L.
  14. I'd like it that if you have proof of private medical insurance you would receive a discount on anything with ACC levies.
  15. You'd think people would pay more attention to the news... It's not hard to see how crap Labour ran the country... ACC 5 Billion dollars in debt. The cost of ACC claims over the last four years has increased by $1.3 billion, or 57 percent...
  16. You know the ACC debacal right? Something like 5 Billion dollars in debt while under Labour? It was Labour that signed upto the Kyoto Protocol expecting to make a 500 million dollar profit, but because they screwed the maths up the country was going to be 500 million dollars worse off? You know that Labour wanted the ETS but with twice the fee's??? National inherited a LOT of problems, factor that in with the economic downturn and i don't think they have done that badly.
  17. Just called up LTSA nope... There is nothing but full cost rego.
  18. There is a % of acc levies in the price of petrol where there is no acc levies in the cost of diesel
  19. National inherited a lot of problems.... just look at the state of ACC.
  20. yeah the 180's are very much a keep it up in the rev's car, but the torque of the 206 gti makes it's not that much slower in a point to point situation.
  21. Just to throw something else into the mix... You can get a 206 Gti for roughly that price also. Might be worth having a look at one of those also, the 306 is an older design... Some people say the last of the true handling Peugeot's but the 206's are not bad and are a very nice torque car.
  22. Oh if the tyres are good and the suspension is good you WILL want to test it on a twisty road... The brakes on the GTI-6 are 283mm and have a large single piston. Its a very common upgrade on the lower 306's and the 205/309's to take the brakes off the gti-6 and put them on them. You can buy a supercharger kit for them also. they come in 2 variants a high and low pressure version being 400hp and 250hp. There is a guy in Aussie by the name of PeterT who makes some very good cams at extremely reasonable prices. No probs man... Glad he's looking at something a bit different. Oh the clutch cable is HEAVY feeling in them... it's not screwed, just means you need to be a man to use it. It's something a lot of people complain about, especially if they are use to a hydraulic clutch
  23. Have a look at these: GTI-6 & Rallye Owners Forum Buyers Guide Also forget the top engine mount, they can crack the base mounting plate which in some cases required welding to fix. Remember it's not that bad, Think of the list you guys could create if you where to mention what to look for in a E36
  24. Ok... basic run down. Cambelt = 80,000km OR 4 YEARS - what ever comes first - so check the date of when it was done. The car is what they call a 306 N5 Phase 2 as it's the gti-6 with the Alcanteria swade inserts in the seats. There was a later Phase 3 they are the 2000 onwards model. The Phase 1 was the 94 - April 97 306 N3 S16, the Phase 1.5 has the same seats as the Phase 1 but had the facelift body and interior as the Phase 2 and 3. The 98 onwards S16's are Jap import GTI-6'S as the S16 (N3) had a very very good name over there and they marketed on it. They do have passive rear end steering, and they do have lift-off overstear not as bad as the 205's but still very much there. Problem Area's. Rear Axle: It's a tube with roller bearing in it, the bearings don't tend to move a hell of a lot and can wear the shaft over time. It will cause funky toe and camber issues. It shouldn't a problem on a car of this many km most tend to have the problem after about 200,000km - it's the same problem as the 205/309 and there are lots of rebuild guides around. Electric Window motor: A few people have complained about the motor failing but i haven't met anyone that has actually had it happen. The biggest problem with them is a poor design on the plastic part the pull wires for the window operate on, if someone smashes the window there is a high probablity that the motor unit will need to be replaces as the plastic part breaks and you can't replace it. You can get the motors out of Aussie/UK if you need to for not a heck of a lot. The body's are galvanized so they don't really rust. The lower control arm bushes do wear not a major to replace but if you buy the parts through PUG NZ they are expensive, incidentally the PUG Sport group A bushes are very cheap (i.e. you can replace all 4 bushes for the price of a single OEM bush) Heater Matrix: These do leak from time to time and it's not to replace it just time consuming as its a dash out process, again lots of walk thoughts on how to replace it step by step. Clutch cables (mechanical): A few people report these drying out and snapping, never had it happen to me tho. Piss easy to replace. The turning Circle is poo when turning right, as to fix the 6 speed box in the car they extended the box and had to limit the lock turning right to prevent tyre rub. The wheels have no center hole so you need to find a place that has a 4 stud balancer.
  25. DRTDVL

    E36 Supertourer

    I think you would actually be rather shocked at the number of ex-factory race cars in nz.
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