DRTDVL

i thought anything over 20mm was illegal?

the gold one doesn't have the gti-6 wheels on it they are from a 307

I'd perfer a 306 s16/gti-6 over those... too front heavy didn't handle anywhere as well.

whooo they have moved from rally to ice racing!

How much of that is engine/gearbox tho? I would be shocked if the engine was 300lbs or 136kg heavier than the petrol version! M21 straight 6 SOHC 12V Diesel. 1983-1991 126kg 278lbs Used in 324td, 524d/td 2.4 (112bhp), 2.4 Turbo (115bhp) vs M20 Straight 6 cylinder SOHC 12V. Baby Six. 1977-1992. 117kg 258lbs Used in E21 320, E21 320i/6, E28, E30, E34, E21/30 323i, E30 325e and E28 528e 2.0i (129bhp), 2.3i (143bhp), 2.5i (170bhp), 2.7e (125bhp) M41 Straight 4 SOHC 8V Diesel. 1995-on. 108kg 238lbs Used in E36 318tdS 1.7 Turbo (90bhp) vs M40 Straight 4 cylinder SOHC 8V. Replaced the M10. 1987-1993. 81kg 178lbs Used in post 87 E30 316i/318i, E34 518i, Pre 93 E36 316i 1.6 (102bhp), 1.8 (122bhp) M55 Straight 6 DOHC 24V Diesel. 2000-on. 132kg 291lbs Used in E46 and E39s. 2.5 Turbo (170bhp), 3.0 Turbo (183bhp) vs M54 Straight 6 DOHC 24V with Dual VANOS. 2000-present. 126kg 277lbs Used in late model Z3, all E39 and E46 six cylinder models 2.0 (150bhp), 2.2 (170bhp), 2.5 (184-192bhp), 2.8 (193bhp), 3.0 (231bhp) M67 V8 DOHC 32V Diesel. 1999-on. 192kg 423lbs Used in E38 740d 4.0 Turbo (245bhp) vs M62/M62TU V8 DOHC 32V/V8 DOHC 32V Single VANOS. 1996-present. Alusil Engine block. Pre 98 engines were non-VANOS. 140kg 308lbs Used in E38 730i/740i, E39 540i, X5 and 840i 3.5 (235bhp), 4.4L (286bhp), 4.6 (340bhp)

I was more referring to the stigma that diesels are big cast iron lumps that come from dump trucks and move as fast as a snail. Most are all alloy engines now days. WRC 2011 will be 1.6 turbos... it will be interesting to see if they run DI in those.

looks like the mazda 2 green... after look at that with the black wheels it just confirms even more i want to paint the 205 that green with the black trim.

THe radar detector we had was fantastic... Its single biggest benifit was when we where going to events like the NZ Rally where the cops are out in force. You get a lot of sunday drivers stilling at 80kph on unfamilar roads, where we knew the roads and where happy to sit 100 - 110kph. Passing though usually meant dropping a few cogs and nailing it until you got around them as there wasn't many passing points. I'd conservatively say on the 5 rallys i took the radar detector to it saved us about 8+ tickets, and one instance it would have saved us a lose of licence (went to pass 5 cars on a long straight, radar went off big time, pulled back in and a commie flew past us, 2km down the road there is mister commie on the side of the road with a very angry looking cop - the commie would have passed us at 130 and he was still accelerating.)

I'm at the lovely age where my friends are having kids and man some of them are sh*t parents. We had one friend come over and their kid was walking around picking up everything and throwing some things, the friend just picked it up or took it off them - never actually said no don't do that... Then the little sh*t ripped the center cone of my speaker! again didn't say no to the kid just picked him up and held him... I mean WTF, if i did that i would have been given the wooden spoon treatment. Best advice another friend got was, the baby is joining your family your not joining the babys family. They should come and do everything with you as normally. This kid is fantastic, he'll sleep anywhere, noise doesn't bother him, we went to the Gray Lynn festival with him when he was 6 weeks old.

i think you will find it happens more than you think.,..

report the car to the LTSA and nz police

The 195/205/335 part of the tyre size is a section width and from what i understand thats basically this: Section width is the measurement of the tyre from side to side excluding any additional sidewall items such as kerbing ribs, raised letters etc. This is not tread width. It would be interesting to see if brand x's 195/55/15 has a different tread width than brand y's, given that you get tyres with square shoulders and rounded shoulders. i.e.

some of the new hybrids are getting interesting... Citroen C4 WRC Hymotion4 Hybrid Rally Car The path PSA are taking with their hybrids are a little different they use the diesel engine on the front wheels and use the electric motor to power the rear wheels... Should make for some more interesting cars... completely different approach than the current fwd combination systems. It uses the 1.6 litre THP engine making 160 kW (218 bhp) and a 70 kW (95hp) electric motor. The result is 230 kW/313 bhp with CO2 emissions of 109 g/km in the combined cycle and 4.5 litres/100 km. Torque is 178 Nm at the front and 280 Nm at the rear. Sprint from 0 to 100 km/h happens in 4.4 seconds, 80 to 120 km/h in just 3.0 seconds. Also Peugeot Sport plans to bring a diesel-electric to the 2011 running of the Le Mans 24 hour. (The 908 featured a hybrid system with a 60 kilowatt (80 horsepower) gear-driven electric motor in place of a conventional starter motor) next few years should be rather interesting for hybrids... Nope but looks like a lotus...

not saying you guys don't need it... just letting the dude know the theory. I was also trying to highlight the difference in setups for track vs road. Forrest what did you do to the rear? I didn't realise that the E30's where that soft in the front to start with.

something to keep in mind. whats the o.d. of the factory fitted bar, whats the o.d. of the 325 bar. Hollow? Solid? have a read of this more so for the graph to give you an idea of what going up 1 or 2mm in bar dia will do to overall roll stiffness: Visit My Website A track will always better suit a stiffer car. The pug boys for road rallys will run a 24mm rear anti-roll bar and 21/22mm torsion bars. The dedicated track boys will run 28mm rear anti-roll bars (ones running 30mm) with 24-26mm torsion bars... As there is not bumps, dips, unulations, etc...

yeah i know i've seen it on a bunch of websites now... it's just made me laugh each time... It's kinda like.. i really would expect my brake fluid to work in the rain.

website link and website 2 Motul RBF 660 far exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications. Extremely high wet and dry boiling points (dry boiling point even higher than Motul RBF 600) help prevent vapor lock and fade in the harshest environments. Far exceeds specifications for any vehicle requiring DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid. Bottles are filled with nitrogen to extend shelf life and eliminate contamination while factory sealed. Extremely high dry and wet boiling points help prevent vapor lock and brake fade during hard use. EXTREME THERMAL RESISTANCE AND STABILITY: The elevated dry boiling point of RBF 660 (617°F) enables effective braking even under the extreme conditions of competition. VERY EFFICIENT WHEN RAINY: The very high wet boiling point (399°F) Sold in 500mL bottles for maximum freshness. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I think this website missed the point of wet boiling point. it's meant to be pointing point when brake fluid contains 3% water not when it's raining outside...

yup...

Simon - if the french cheese chassis was so soft then why is they that they don't need the extra stiffness in the front? It's more likely that the limp bratwurst of a E30 chassis needs the extra stiffness to make it handle better... Thats all good then... it's just something to keep in mind. probably comes down to how you like your cars setup also.

be careful about going too stiff in the front. The stiffer your anti-roll bars in the front the more understeer you will promote. You can also decrease the turn in of the car with stiffer rollbars. I know a bunch of people that run smaller than factory anti-roll bars, or no anti-roll bar and they prefer the handling of the car that way.

don't lower your car?

Still Says Home Of Chrome on the website!

after a trademe search you should be running 195/65/15 or 205/60/15's on the car... what profile tyres are currently on it?

or get bigger profile tyres... what size are you running? 195/55/15 205/40/15 etc...

Drill the head of the bolt/screw off then slide the disc over the now headless bolt/screw and then remove with pilers as above... done it on the 205, 306, and a few other cars... stupid soft screws... they arn't anything special just a countersunk screw, most hardware places\engineering bolt shops will have them.