DRTDVL

you got a daily?

i say keep the e34.... tooo many e30's... be different...

Got a body that does fit in the orientation that you want but too slow? Could get the rack and pinion made for that body... I'm just thinking that it's a lot of effort to hunt and remove racks test fit, modify, re-gig, etc... when it could be much simpler and cheaper to get it made... If i remember correctly the 32 / 28 spline count ends (offset #'d ends) for the torsion bars where going to cost me under $60...

we've got the factory 307 ones on Andrea's car and they look very nice...

left hand driver....

David, You got me thinking over the weekend about a few things: 1) It's going to be rather hard to find a direct swap out rack, unless you just happen to luck out. 2) Can you replace the internals of the rack with that from anouther brand/model, leaving you to use the factory mountings for the main body housing? 3) Do you have a spare rack you could pull apart and take to a gear cutters and get them to make you a new rack/pinion gear set (then make a bunch and sell them to the other BMW boys) - I was looking at getting some torsion bars done in nz - i was going to get the spring steel from Snell Springs and then take the cut bars to someone like Gearcutting Services then hardened by someone else - from my costings it was going to work out about 400 less than importing them from the uk... The Evo 6 RS has a 2.2 lock to lock, the Mirage Cyborgs have a 2.6 lock to lock. I'm asking the mivec boys if they have a spare rack i can use to dummy up with for the pug, if i get it i can see about popping over to look at if it will fit yours....

If i get a new exhaust at some point it's going straight to the powder coaters...

Bimmersport Maths: Cost of RB26/30 performance parts vs Cost of 540 performance parts + Availablity of parts in NZ for above - Relative exchange rates to respective countries for said performance parts if not locally available (japan vs us/europe) * (potential performance gains / ease of installation) ^coolness = OP choice...

Weekend work = not much... started attacking the bushes for the solid mounting kit to go and AHHHHH i don't like them... ran out of time before needing to go out for the rest of the day... so thats not finished... today decided i'll get the exhaust done so started on that... this is what the exhaust was like to start with: manually sanding with 120grit very quickly became pointless... moved to orbital sander with 240grit (i had them laying about) again pointless... hunted some more found some 120grit discs and again pointlessly slow... Shot down to Mitre10 mega and got some 40 and 60grit discs... and progress was quickly made... A fair while later it was basically finished with the sanding just a few places to get by hand: Then time to hang up the exhaust and high temp paint it... I wanted to inital paint it a lovely red for the fun of it... but the flat black had a higher temp rating so i went with that. Now just letting it dry and then i'll store it until the beam is completed and ready to go back into the car so i can remount it.

the pug ones mount to the sub frame... i'll check on the evo and mirage cyborg ones for you, i know those you can get in 2.2, 2.6, and 2.8 lock to lock

ahh right i get where i lost you - inners... sorry should have said internals of the rack...

interesting i was under the impression that it was the size of the rack and pinion teeth/gearing that dictated the ratio... I might not be explaining what i'm thinking correctly... but the larger the gearing within the rack the more horizontal distance the rack will slide with less steering turn required... i'm only getting confused because of the quiafe upgrade kits you can get. http://www.quaife.co.uk/shop_category.cfm/...ategory_id/1281 <--- for a mk2 golf

Can you steal the inners from anouther model to get the ratio down? I find it really interesting that most jap stuff has a lock ratio much less than the euro's... i know misty have a high ratio rack of 2.8 in the mirages and the evo rs's have a 2.2 ratio rack in them. different models have anything in between those... i know the mirage boys hunt down the 2.4 and 2.6 racks for their cars...

With the weather being nice this week after work for a change i decided to start working on the car again. So decided to start drawing out the wiring loom for the engine bay, but got sidetracked with the wiring in the rear of the car and decided to start with the phase 1 to phase 2 taillight conversion. - Removed all excess wiring from the rear end of the car - Started re-running the wiring for the phase 1 to phase 2 rear light conversion - Sanded back some surface rust and re-painted with zinc paint (sorry i know it's not Por-15 George) this is what is will look like (phase 1 on the top, phase 2 on the bottom) Once this is done i'll only have the side indicator lights to change from orange to white and my quest to rid the car of orange will be complete! Decided i couldn't be bothered tonight working on the lights so.... now most of the rear end of the car is missing... No bumper, no brakes, no rear suspension, no rear axle, no rear lights, no exhaust system... So work for this weekend when not at grey lynn festival = 1) sand and high temp paint the exhaust (mild steel parts as they are getting rusty) 2) fit solid rear beam mounting kit 3) fit larger torsion bars 4) refit above to the car 5) fit phase 2 rear lights / start potential re-wiring of car 6) make up mountings for the front mud flaps and cut the polyurethane sheets to fit.

Hey i have been.... Even sent out emails i did! p.s. donate to me! http://nz.movember.com/mospace/298968

you would be...

or setup a club photobucket account, it will auto resize on upload and then you can also create folders for events. we've done this on a few other forums as it's basically free image hosting.

no - for the reason of intentionally reducing the amount of light getting out in front of you...

update:

Neither do i, but in the last year i've learnt soo much from working on my 205 it's not funny... At the start invite mechanical friends over for beers and get them to have a beer and help you, particularly you do the work and they tell you how to do it... then in no time your fear of working on the car fads and your comfortable working on it... Plus it becomes a social thing as working on cars quickly leads to you having no social life...

ohhhh F!@K! at 1 min...

they are this strong...

heres a DIY from the pugworld... I know MLM's involves filling the rash which this doesn't but it does have but thought it might be some use: Wheel refurb...

you want me to rock over with the orbital sander?