DRTDVL

My understanding is that proper HPC coatings not powder coatings apply a ceramic layer to the surface of the object being coated.  As the ceramic can be used as an insulator wouldn't it suit the purpose? I know they use cermic tiles on the bottom and leading edges of the space shuttles to protect the shuttle from the heat of re-entry. If you had the inside and exterior of the pipe coated you would have two layers of insulation: 1) internally preventing heating of the air from the alloy pipe and 2) externally preventing heating of the alloy pipe from engine bay temps. Bravo: didn't mean to question what your doing just wondering if it might be a better option, interms of functionality and time/hassle...Â

Why wouldn't it? Surely it would work the same as it does when you get your exhaust manifold, turbo housing, head chambers done?Â

Harrooo mister man... MLM came along on the bimmersport drive i took my little puggy too... There is a nice pic of your car in the thread for the drive...

could you get it HPC coated?

it use to be go find a nice gravel road... recently it's been playing lacrosse...

OMGWTF on a yellow altezza in welly

I've been using it on my laptop for about 1 - 1 1/2 months now... Everything is faster on it... espically networking speeds compared to vista. It's more stable (even in the beta), pc runs cooler, and a few other things... Would recommend it to anyone, espically if the retail release is as good as this beta... we have it running on 512mb ram, p4 - compaq evo heap of junk... suprisingly it runs as well as some of our vista 2gb dual core machines

Some people also comment that as the exhaust gas retains more heat it travels faster thus giving more performance...Â

Just a random thought - does the fan have any play in it?Â

double clutching was originally used for non-syncromesh gearboxes, and the idea behind it (from what i know) is basically the same as rev matching that you do when your heel-toeing... The only reason you woud use it would be in a crashbox (proper motorsport gearbox with no syncromesh), or a big truck that doesn't have a syncromesh gearbox. I can't really see the point of it in a modern syncromesh gearbox, as it's slower and your not gaining anything... It's not all that hard to learn in a syncromesh box as you can't really tell if you have screwed it up...

You can still use all those left foot braking methods... in fact it's easier for you as you don't need to really worry about changing gears with the auto...Â

I know people that drill a hole in these handbrake, and have a little bar or counter sunk bolt that goes into it to stop the ratchet...Â

i'm absolutly paranoid when it comes to the 205... really don't like letting it out of my sight if i have take it out..

Scandinavian flick enough said

I don't know really... I guess i called it that so it would be called something kinda approprate. Left foot braking i agree isn't something that you would use in everyday driving, but i think heel-toe would be or at least the rev matching side of it would be for downshifting for things like passing manuovers, going up hills, etc... It's much nicer mechanically on the car, less wear on syncro's, less shock on engine mounts, less shock on the clutch, etc... Comes down to the person and where and how they drive...Â

My girlfriends car had a problem like this and it was worn swaybar bushes...

Same story as always... the insured value is much more than what i could get for it... Kinda wish they did take it as i have a very long road ahead to covert back to a complete full trim road car...

Righto, made this up as a guide for some friends that wanted to know how to do a few things when driving. If you have a problem with anything that’s in this let me know and I can fix it or explain why it's like that.  Yes I know it's a bit of a novel... Sorry about the length. Heath -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Heel Toe: Now, the principles of heel toeing are basically using part of your foot on the brake, and the other part on the gas, When your coming up to a corner than you need to change down a gear for and also need to brake for, normally you have to brake to a acceptable speed and then change gear while trying to corner, with the heel toe method you brake and downshift at the same time. This has many advantages, one you can maintain better car balance (as most people get a small jerk through the car when the clutch in engaged as there is a mismatch in engine and gearbox speeds - this can unbalance the car causing you to loose control), in rear wheel drive cars it also prevents what’s called compression locking of the rear wheels (very bad when entering a corner hard), on the downside it's hard to master, and takes a lot of coordination. The best way I’ve found is to first get the blipping of the throttle and the gear change timing down first, don't worry about braking to start with. The basic method is the ball area of your foot on the brake and the heel area of your foot on the gas (this will vary depending on your pedal box setup (meaning how close your brake pedal is to your gas pedal), the width of your foot and the shoes your wearing), then start applying the brake with the ball of your foot, when your slowed enough that when you downshift your not going to blow the engine, you put the clutch in (once you get good at matching the gearbox speeds to the engine speeds (also known as rev matching) you don't need to use the clutch although I do recommend it), tap/blip the throttle and slide the gear into the lower gear, and release the clutch. Eventually you will only be limited by the speed in which you move the gearstick. Below is a basic guide on how to learn this... Right to start with don't worry about braking. You need to learn the clutch action, downshifting, and the blipping of the throttle firstly. Right... To start off with put the clutch in, then you'll blip the throttle (it's normally about a 1000 rpm that you need to blip �" this will vary) and slide the gearstick into the lower gear at the same time... you want to time it so that at the end of the blip it's just about to slide into the lower gear. Once you get more comfortable with that action, you shouldn't feel any hesitation for the gear going into place. If you are getting some hesitation at roughly 1000 rpm have a look at your rev gauge when you change down a gear and watch how many rpm’s the engine is increased by, i.e. when travelling at 50kph put it in 4th and downshift to 3rd �" how many rpm’s was the increase? This will be what you roughly need to blip to match engine revs to gearbox speed. Ultimately you want to get it so the only thing limiting your changes is the speed that you can move the stick. The next step is then starting to use your foot on the brake and the gas. This is awkward and you will need to play around a bit with the positioning of your feet so your knee's don't bang into the steering column or wheel. To practice your braking put the clutch in when your approaching traffic lights or on quiet/abandoned roads (preferable) and slow down using the ball of your foot and part of your foot on the gas, don't blip just yet, you need to get use to the force you need and the positioning of your foot you want to make sure it will not slip off if you push firmly... Once you have gotten use to that then you can start to blip the throttle and after you’re comfortable with that combine that with the gear shifting... Left Foot Braking: There are 3 basic left foot braking methods: 1. Brake normally but with your left foot... 2. Trail Braking 3. Traditional Left Foot Braking Normal Left Foot Braking: Right to start with, normal left foot braking is just that, braking as you would normally but with your left foot... great for those lazy sods with autos... (No offence) Trail braking: Trail braking is my favourite style of braking. The fundamentals of this go completely against the conventional theory of brake before the corner; trail braking is used by rally drivers and motorcyclists mainly. The basic method is braking later and riding the brake through the corner to the apex where you would then apply the throttle again. This is a great method for keeping a car balanced in a corner, as the brakes are already pre-loaded to say there is no initial bite to throw the car off balance. An advantage with this method is that you can control the car in corner, if the car is under steering you apply a little more brake, if it's over steering you ease off a little. Also, as you’re not having to take your foot off the brake and onto the gas you can apply the gas earlier. It's not an easy method to master and therefore isn't taught by most people. Down to it... The first thing your going to need to learn is sensitivity in your left foot (not so your girlfriend will like it more), as your left foot is use to pushing a much heavier clutch pedal, you will have no feel for the brake pedal at first. The best way to learn it is to use it, find a quiet road at first and then at 50kph, put the car into neutral, and slowly apply the brakes with your left foot. You will most like be very very jerky at first as its a very odd feeling, as you get more feeling in your foot, you can put the car into neutral and apply the brakes as you come up to traffic lights, street signs, etc... The idea behind this is that when approaching corners you don't need to change down for but need to slow down for you can get on the brakes harder and later and get on the gas earlier and harder... Traditional Left Foot Braking: This is what most people think of when you mention left foot braking. This is a brutal assault on your cars brakes. It's similar in a sense to trail braking although you never lift of the gas pedal. Yup that’s right... You keep the gas pedal pushed hard to the floor board while using your left foot to brake through the corner; this is very very hard to master. I personally wouldn't recommend using it as it's very hard on your car. I like to use a combination of the two left foot methods; I tend to not completely remove my foot off the gas as I find I can control the car better with applications of the throttle when needed, especially on gravel or slippery surfaces. Trail Braking and Left Foot Braking is that it’s generally a lot harder on the brakes and generates more heat you have to be more aware of the brakes as it's a lot easier to over heat them and then lose your brake... not fun... Many modern vehicles use a "Drive by Wire" or Electronic throttle control system instead of the traditional mechanical throttle linkage. These systems have a safety interlock that prevents left foot braking. The car's ECU can detect when both pedals are pressed simultaneously and will immediately cut/reduce the engine power for safety reasons. An example is all modern Volkswagen and Audi Group vehicles. You might want to see if you can get that disabled Also don't get too caught up in braking stupidly late and unsettling the car stuff, brake a bit earlier and concentrate on getting through the corner 2 - 5kph faster & hooked up each time. The corner speed multiplies down the next straight, and you'll find you're going 10kph faster at the end of that straight than you where previously. Some other things you might want to work on might be: Car Control: This is the most important thing about driving a car. No matter how much power your car has if you can't control your car the other person could be on a big wheel and drive better and faster than you. Car control consists of more than just being able to turn a corner or go fast in a straight line, you need to be able to control the throttle (how to apply the throttle by this I mean timing, force, and how it effects the car, and how it can be used to effect the car mid corner), the body movement (by this I mean predict what it's going to do under certain conditions and motions), braking (how to apply the brakes by this I mean timing, force, and how it effects the car, and how it can be used to effect the car mid-corner). Just remember ever car has a different setup and balance, what works in one car will not work in another and what works in one car could put you ass end first into a bunch of tress or a ditch. The best method that I know of to learn how your car will react is to get it into those situations in the first place... baptism of fire as they say... Now the best method that I know of to do this without doing stupid speeds or doing something stupid is to find a nice wide gravel road, preferably one that’s got lots of freshly laid gravel. This will allow the car to move around a lot at very low speeds (especially if you have directional road tires). The advantages of this are: 1.The loose surface will cause the car to slide very easily, allowing you to learn what it feel like to get into a slide/4wd drift/over and under steer, all at a speed that if you can't control it, you will either spin and stop or just slide to a stop without the risk of damage to the car. 2.Braking is a skill on gravel (even with abs �" actually abs is pure evil on gravel), too much force on the brakes and you will lock up (or the abs will activate - better if you can deactivate this - research about your car first, some cars if you disconnect the abs the car goes into a sort of limp home mode), you will learn how braking will effect the cars entry into the corner. 3.Throttle control is a key factor in driving quickly, too much throttle too soon and you will spin the wheels. Gravel will teach you how to smoothly apply the throttle and how even small amounts of throttle can affect traction, car balance, body movement, etc... One big disadvantage that you all see is the possible damage to your paint jobs, if you find a freshly gravelled road you won't have to worry the slow speeds that you need to travel to get the car moving around will not cause much damage to the car, it's mainly when your following someone or when your swinging the steering wheel from side to side when you have the car in a slide with decent amounts of throttle applied (near full and breaking traction) flicking stones up onto the sides of the car. If you want to be extra careful, use some plastic sheeting around the area just in front of the rear tyres, that’s the main area that gets damaged first. If you find yourself on a rougher road and it's very bumpy - speed up a bit, you will allow less time for the wheel to go into the hole/dips and ultimately provide a smoother road... and yes I knew this before they did it on mythbusters. Most people sit about 60 - 70 on gravel roads, if you sit around 80 you will get a smoother ride... This is a good place to master your left foot braking, as it's where it was meant to be used. Car Size: This is a very common thing; most people don't know how big their car actually is... The best thing I can recommend to learn the size of your car is to get a bunch of friends (you can do this alone - I did, just takes longer) and some road cones or buckets, then place the cones 1.5m's from either side of the car, move 3-4m's down the road and put some more 1.5m's from the sides of the car, and so on until you run out of cones you want to try and get at least 6 sets of cones... Then drive through them at 50kph a few times, if your a bit nervous when you approach the cones, slow down and coast through them slowly, and progressively build up to the legal speed limit of the road your on (mine was a 100kph zone - good old quiet rural roads)... Once you have done 10 - 15 runs through the cones or your comfortable, stop the car between the first set of cones again and move the cones so they are now 1m from either side of the car, and drive through the cones 10 - 15 or till your comfortable again at 50kph or the speed limit of the road your on. Repeat until the base of the cones are basically touching the wheels, this will allow you to gain confidence in the gaps you can fit through resulting in your not hesitating when needing to fit through a gap and helps in placement on the road. Most people tend to think their car is about 1m on either side bigger than what it actually is. Frontal Reference Points: This is to help you in placement of the car on the road. The idea behind this is to aid you in developing a sense of where you car is on the road when your corning. Meaning is the tyre 0.5m away from the shoulder of the road, or is it about to drop off the shoulder of the road into the gravel. It's best to find something that will be similar to a rumple strip on a track; this will give you an instant feel through the steering wheel as to exactly where you are on the road through the corner. The spot is an optical thing, so it move from car to car and seating position to seating position, this will help until you get a refined understanding of the cars placement on the road... You can practice this in Auckland by staying on the white lines on the motorway as they have bump’s built into to awaken sleeping drivers. To use the reference point get the seating position in your normal driving position, when your driving and you can feel the bumps look see where the white line is a see if you can pick up a point on the car that’s in-line with your seating position and the white line, that’s your reference point, move away from the line and go back to it and see if you reference point works. Now remember it's just a general guide it will move a little as you move in the seat.

Opps forgot to mention my 306 is parked in my driveway behind a fence... We take my girlfriends car to work.

Double click on it... You click once it highlights the whole address. If you click on it once to highlight it, and then click anywhere on the address it will move the | thing to where you then click, allowing you to then type or delete from that point. Also if you have click on it once and it's highlighted: If you push left arrow on the keyboard it goes to the start of the address. If you push the right arrow it goes to the end of the address. EDIT: speellign

In the address bar you will notice that it said threaded in the address... If you delete that and put in list it will also fix it... well thats what i did...Â

Does anyone have any photos of a e36 2.0 cylinder head thats been cut up? Wanting photos of the following: Cut down the middle of the intake port Cut down the middle of the exhaust port Seat to port wall alignment Chamber I just want to get an idea of the port wall thickness, short turn thickness and a few other things...Â

Old news kinda but figured i'd share it after the post about car registration and it being easy for people to find out where you live to come steal you car.. 2 weeks ago i rocked home from work to find some model citizens had decided to try and break into my 306... I know none of you have seen it apart from Apex... The car is completely and utterly stripped... It was going to get a rollcage put into it before i bought the 205.  No carpets, no heater, no fans, etc... Only things in the car are 2 seats, front seat belts, the shell of the dash, gear stick, factory steering wheel, front door cards and speedo... The drivers side is very obviously missing the interior door lock/unlock tab, and you need a pair of pliers to pull it up to unlock it... So the complete legends, tried to screw driver the drivers door lock... failing at that they shattered the rear 3/4 window on the drivers side... The only thing we can think of is that they wanted to take it for a joy ride... but it's a 14 yr old beaten up pug that isnt anything special... really have to wonder about some people...  Â

I think i might change my address to mom and dad's P.O. Box on my all cars once i get the racecar on the road...

It's amazing the differance in service some dealerships have... Mom's had 3 a4's and 2 of them have had to have transmissions replaced in less than 12,000km. The service from CCS Audi has been amazing, a loan car for the whole time (last one was 6 weeks wait for the g'box from german). She goes in there for anything and it's not an issuie. Dad's got a V8 limited exporer (Ford) and you would swear he's taken it to the dodgest local mechanic. Constantly getting the name wrong on the service booking, breaking things during service, arguing over every warrenty claim. He got told by one of the guys at the service desk he was an idiot because he couldn't enter in the stereo code after they had forgot to put it in after they disconnect the battery during a service... turned out that the guy went to enter the code and had forgot to give dad the last number as the guy had to go back and double check the number. We have had the same service from South Auckland and North Harbour Ford. It's truely shocking. Incidently we have a 3 1/2 page file of faults from the Explorer. Oh anouther gem... they used the wrong gearbox fluid in the trans and the trans had to be replaced... clap clap My sister had a Ford Mondeo work car, Ford had provided the wrong space saver for the car she got a flat changed the tyre, called me as she said it felt funny, then going around a roundabout on the way to Ford the space saver fell off... The holes for the space saver where too big for the lug nuts and worked themselves over the lug nuts. NEVER BUY or LET ANYONE BUY A FORD!