Kepes

Ebay. These ones to be exact I had a look around locally and could not find them. Once I tried Jay Car with no luck I knew ebay would be my only option. However those quick splice connectors I did see at Super cheap auto and Jay Car

might as well get that E36 M3!! Very nice car though. Never met a person who doesn't like the E28's. Don't see many around though. Has been on trade me for awhile. I think the price is right, just not a huge market for it

Jk southern euro. They're in Newtown. Jon's a good guy, and he's a forum sponsor

Hey team, Today I went about hard wiring my Valentine One into my E30 as my cigarette lighter is a bit corroded and didn't make good contact with the socket. Also I don't like people knowing I have a radar detector and this keeps it pretty out of sight from people around. This also works well if you use your radar detector in different cars as it can be easily disconnected and the wire easily hidden. It's relatively easy, took me around 40mins. What you need: Any hardwire cable with an RJ11 connector. I bought one from trade me because it was only $22, and saved me having to make one. T-tap connector or quick splice connector. Ebay is good for the T-taps (more about these later) Small phillips screwdriver Multimeter or 12v test lamp Pliers Wire stripper Here's everything I used Start by removing the check panel. If you wiggle/pull it enough it'll come free. There are two tabs holding it on both the top and bottom. Some people use a flathead screwdriver but it's not needed. Pull the wire/socket off of the check panel and you'll be greeted with this (excuse my long, almost lady-like nails) Then remove the 4 phillips screws. Be careful as these are really small and easily lost. I now have just 3 screwed in, I lost the other one down the side of the seat Here's what it should look like Now use your multimeter to find ground and the 12v supply from the small pins. Each one has a number, for me ground was pin #9 (brown wire) and the 12v which only turns on when the key is in was pin #23 (one of the purple and green wires). This will vary between different E30's so check first. I believe most pre-facelift E30s will be the same as mine, but check. Once you've established which wires you are going to want to take power from, use either your t-tap or quick splice connector. On the left is the quick splice connector and on the right is the T-tap. Even though the one on the left looks more like a 'T'. Anyway, I had both but decided to use the T-tap because if I ever want to remove the hard wire, it is much easier with the T-tap. Put the wire through the tap and use pliers to close it. It will stay shut and break the insulation just enough to draw power. Both wires tapped Next you'll want to prepare the hard wire. The one I bought had a ring connector on one end and a spade sonnector on the other. I needed them both to have spade connectors. I stripped the ground wire back and attached another spade connector like that on the positive wire. Then it's just a process and connecting the spade to the t-tap Next, test for 12v (make sure the key is in and turned one step). I wasn't getting the 12v at first so I used the pliers to squeeze the t-taps a little more and wa-la. 12.24v To get the RJ11 connector through to the windshield, push the socket out through the area around the rear view mirror, where there is some flexible rubber. You can see there is already a small gap there Push the wire through the gap and try your best the fold the wires so they'll sit nicely behind the check panel. It took me a few tries before the check panel would sit flush/fully in. Notice the fuse holder on the wire. It has a 2amp fuse. Make sure you use/make a wire that includes a fuse, you don't want your V1 blowing up! Put the plastic cover back around the wires and check panel socket, reconnect the check panel and put it in place. The wire which comes out to the windscreen can be easily pushed back into the check panel area for when you're not using the radar, rather than just having a stray wire hanging down your windscreen. Try your V1 or other radar detector. If it chirps, smile. If it blows up, don't blame me.

Scatter is also a possibility. Was in my friends M3 and we were saved by scatter from the laser hitting the car infront of us. That was with a V1

Hardwired the Valentine One into the E30. 'How to' to come!

Ahhh, you're a cop?

enlighten us!!!

Those traffic lights on the motorway can be annoying but they make for a great way to test the cars 0-100 capabilities!

Right, and if you're lucky you'll pick up some scatter from any cars just in front of you that are targeted. Only if you're really lucky though. I think some people always make sure they're behind a car when speeding, they refer to them as a 'rabbit' I don't intend to speed with the V1, what bugs me is 95% of people who travel at 90km/h on a single lane road also speed up to over 100km/h at passing lanes. I firmly believe that overtaking should be done as quickly as possible and now it can without getting ticketed

The timing belt kit comes with the tensioner too. Waterpump comes with a gasket if you get the right one. Looks like you'd just be missing the thermostat which definitely isn't worth $100. Also that coolant additive isn't worth buying from overseas and probably weighs a bit which would boost the shipping cost up

I know this is quite an old thread, however I got a V1 as an early birthday present and figured that since everybody here has a V1, it would be a good place to ask questions regarding it. I was curious what your views on Ka guard are. (#6 in programming mode). I've heard it increases range, and sensitivity a wee bit for I/O radar. In the US however they keep it on because they get a lot of Ka falses from Cobra and other cheap detectors with it off. I'm going to try with it off - Do the cops here use I/O? Has anyone had experience with Ka guard off? Thanks Edit: Am running only Ka and L on, with K and X off. I want to know that when it goes off, it's a cop but I also want to get the best range out of it

I bought my water pump and timing belt kit from pelicanparts.com Not sure what it cost exactly as I was buying other parts as well, however I have used Pelican before for other things and have found them to be a little cheaper than ECS in the shipping side of things.

A valentine one radar detector. Seems to be a common problem with the E30's something about a different sized socket? Not sure but it's definitely frustrating! Edit: Google tells me it's not just E30's. Google also tells me that one temporary fix is to bend the 'pins' on the male socket to get them to fit better. Will give that a try.

Is there any way to get the cigarette lighter socket (female end) to work properly when using USB chargers etc. Just bought a V1 but the socket doesn't make a good contact and it only works if I hold it in on a certain angle. No using it while driving so far.... Before I just hardwire it, is there any quick fix?? Or just a general fix as I would like to be able to charge my phone too!

Is this the same car which was on trade me a couple of months ago? Same seller? Sweet car nonethelesS.. Something about tourings are so appealing

Apologies for any confusion I may have caused!! I'm still a noob :~)

Really? I thought it would just be the raised compression as a result of having the head resurfaced and also having 325,000km on it perhaps some carbon buildup also contributing to higher compression? AFM was cleaned a few months ago. Spark plugs are about 1year old and the correct type. Air leak is possible, but car runs great right now. Spark plugs look normal and fuel consumption is surprisingly good so I don't think it is running rich either.

Problem solved after filling up w/ 98 at mobil!! No more rattle, i'm very glad I didn't have to get into timing. At only 15c more per litre it works out to be about $6 more than 91 per fill, nothing to be alarmed about at all. Also, should I be worried about any damage that occurred while running it on 91? I really hope I haven't done anything harmful.

Someone has to do it Congratulations on the sale! Quite a unique car, worth what you got.

I noticed you've changed the price. I think that it is now very reasonable considering the mileage, and the care/work you've put into it over your 10year ownership. Like john said, something like this is fairly hard to find. I also agree with the acs and is badging being a bit tacky, but each to their own

tbh I think the price is reasonable. Could be a little cheaper but considering the low kms and condition it's not too bad. Still, for that asking price I think it will be sitting there for quite awhile. Edit: Actually the more I think about it, you're right. The 2lr E30s are not very desirable, particularly the automatics.

wow it looks so nice!!! Would love to see it in person at the next welly meet (if one ever happens) Always wanted an E34, if you sell, keep me in mind.

Will try 98 and if the problem persists will check timing. Is there a quick way to do this or can it only be done by checking the timing marks on the crank and cams? Probably will be in there again soon anyway to re-tension the t/belt after 600kms.

Does have the conventional distributor - however I think the timing is ok as even before doing the head gasket it would rattle, but not quite as often as it does now. I'm thinking it will be compression. Will run 98 from Mobil for my next fill and see if it helps. Does the b27 have the same compression as the b25? Also when it was pinging did it sound like a rattle from the engine? I've never heard a car ping so i'm not really sure what it is. Very lucky fuel is cheap at the moment!! Are there any adverse effects of running 98 over 95? It wouldn't be too high would it. Only reason I ask is because I much prefer fueling at Mobil than at Z.