Kepes

she'll be right

update: Flushed the cooling system with some off the shelf stuff from supercheap auto. Not the best way to flush it I know, but it seemed to have worked pretty well. There was a bit of 'glitter' that is the headgasket seal in a can which came out in the flush and the engine now operates at a lower temperature according to the gauge. Temperature still does climb in traffic, however it doesn't pass the 1/2 way mark like it used to, and like I said when cruising the temperature isn't as high as it was previously. New fan too, as the old one was hitting one of the coolant hoses. Much better, no more wobble to it. When I next go to flush the cooling system I will invest in a new radiator Thanks for all the help team!

Waterpump was replaced december 2014, so I assume hope it's still good

Cheers Andy Mine is 4 bolt

Hello My current fan seems to have warped(?) or done something funny as it wobbles, intermittently hitting the hose going from the thermostat to the waterpump. Prefer close to Wellington so I can pick up tomorrow or tuesday, but if it can be posted quickly then happy to pay for that. New or second hand part # 11521271846 Or 11521273086 Real oem lists both for some reason. Pic. Part in question is number 1

Thanks for all of the replies guys. I really appreciate it. The headgasket blew on the previous owner. I didn't know this when i bought the car. The glittery head gasket seal stuff from repco they had used let go after about 9months of me owning it. Apparently the stuff hardens/seals when it comes in contact with air, so perhaps when i took the cooling system apart and introduced air into the system it caused a clog in the radiator. Sounds like radiator will be the first place to start, I'll get that checked out by a shop and go from there. As for replacing the radiator, I'm having a hard time finding any sort of part number or anything that looks similar to it's design (hose/inlet/outlet placing) on pelican parts and other online stores, but I'll leave or that for when/if the radiator shop says it should be replaced. edit: RealOEM do not list a part number for my radiator either. I'll get pictures tomorrow. I will look deeper into where this coolant is going, thanks for the suggestion. Yes, I am running antifreeze. Not BMW coolant, but prestone coolant. Could this be an issue?

I have the 32mm spanner from BMW, but not the pulley holder. If you're lucky whacking the spanner with a hammer will be enough to get it to budge. Also remember it is reverse thread so clockwise to loosen. I'm working on my cooling system this week. If you can't find anything else by next week I'm happy to send it down for you to use, just pay the postage :~)

Funny you say that because I have noticed some coolant loss. Not much at all but definitely enough to notice. What are the end tanks? Worth noting that the radiator is not original, not sure when it was replaced but most likely previous owner. Doesn't look more than a few years old but I could be wrong.

Hmmm.. good to know. Perhaps I should not completely disregard the radiator as being a suspect... Fins and everything appear to be fine. Will take it to a radiator shop to be flushed next week edit: I take it you replaced the radiator and the issue went away?

Hi team, My pfl 325i E30 has been having cooling issues since I replaced the head gasket at christmas time last year. Before this I had no issues. Quite simply, the temperature gauge rises when at idle or when under load for long periods (hills, driving hard, etc). The fluctuation goes from just below halfway on the gauge to just about the 3/4 mark or whenever I decide to turn on the heaters in the situations mentioned above. I thought it was the fan clutch, so I replaced that... 3 times. 2 were used units and the one in there now is brand new OEM. The thermostat is 1 year old. Waterpump done with head gasket I had no issues before doing the head gasket so I don't suspect radiator I had a thought the other day that perhaps it could be the ignition timing, too advanced perhaps? The timing belt was changed with the head gasket by me, and it was my first time doing it. The engine did ping after the work mentioned, I thought that the skimmed head had raised the compression enough to cause that and 'fixed' it by using premium gas Could a few degrees out cause the engine to overheat in the situations mentioned? Blasting the heaters keeps me out of trouble and is easy to put up with in the winter but summer is a different story! Thanks for any insight! :~)

Im gonna go ahead and say that this is fake

Sounds good Lionel, thanks for the info. Have done all the prepping etc just need to fill the cracks and dye. Don't have the spray guns etc but just plan to use a foam applicator. Would be great to see pics, thanks ! Can I ask what car you did it in? I understand newer cars 'leather' is not quite how is used to be. And if you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost you?

Legally the winning bidder must pay, right? not sure why the same person outbid themselves from $1560 to $2000, seems like a waste of ~$500 but that's none of my business

Went for bang on $2000 Whether you think it looks "YUK!!!!!!!" or not I think that the buyer got a good deal. edit: looks like the auction winner is not interested in actually buying after looking at the Q&A. Probably will see it back on trade me

Suprises me! Definitely my favorite colour for an E30 edit: i'm a little slow... Andy loves calypso red, i get it now :~)

probably right, I just assumed so because of the leather door cards. No mention of leather or sport seats in the build sheet. Potential for profit to be made though?

1hr to go and at $1,520.. the manual conversion and leather interior would fetch that alone would it not? edit: not to mention the h&r springs and koni shocks Shame about it being in Christchurch, if it was in Wellington I would be well tempted but would probably have to bid against Andy http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=934912845 Thoughts on it all? I know tech 2 on pfl is generally a no no but I actually think it looks quite good

re that black tech 2 on trade me... Owner claims it is "pretty much sold" and he'll be letting go of it tomorrow (saw on facebook) Not you is it OP??

I'm in the process of redying some blue leather sport seats for E30... I want them black. Spent hours prepping them. Leatherique is stupid expensive and the only other alternative I could find here was fiebing`s. I do not recommend it at all. So shiny almost looks silver and the dye rubs out onto clothing etc. Will be looking for another alternative

My new zealand new pre facelift 325i with no o2 sensor has an 073 ecu if that's useful info for you...

From what I`ve seen on the bmw groups on facebook I`d stay away from the black one. It's owned by a teenager in auckland and according to people who have seen it around it isn't treated very well and often driven to the limiter etc. Despite that, M20s are tough so probably nothing wrong with it.

started pretty easily after sitting for 3months. smiled clean sheet WoF. smiled cleaned out the cobwebs. smiled

Hey Geoff im trying to send you a message but your inbox is full. Nothing major. Thanks and sorry for posting here but I didn't really have an option

What sort of shop/place would one go to to get control arm bushings pressed into the lollipop? Cheers :~)

The lady or the car?