B.M.W Ltd

Be aware that apart from ET (offset to clear suspension and calipers), the rolling circumference MUST be the same otherwise the vehicle will be electrically controlled to not drive over 30kph. The OP also needs to identify the wheels and give tyre sizes fitted to those wheels if they aren't standard fitment. I once had a customer drive from to Botany at 30kph with a space saver on

Why the increase in the initial head torque Mark ? Should be 22 ftlbs or 30Nm

I would suggest you choose one of these specialists to look at it for you: https://www.euromechanica.com.au/mechanics/bmw-mechanics-brisbane?gclid=Cj0KCQiAuefvBRDXARIsAFEOQ9H_ASf78V-AR7WZMgrRtZHBx86yVTJ1aZtLeLM_-QvWP8gbZkZf6ZkaArjuEALw_wcB

They are camshaft position sensor fault codes. Get it checked professionally or throw money at it and replace both camshaft sensors and recheck. Is it just a code reader you are using or can it provide live data and clear fault codes and adaptions ? After replacing the sensors, fault codes AND adaptions MUST be cleared before starting and driving again. BTW Federation12 hasn't visited here since July 24, 2016

Sadly like a lot of the history on here that has been lost by poor management. I do remember Cain.

227 is a running lean code and in your case limited to bank one over a 50km test period. I would suggest talking to Gavin@High Velocity or Joe@Eurosurgeon and get it checked on a dyno to determine when the lean running occurs

I think that question should be directed to the block tester Nathan. Would he be prepared to do it and guarantee it, or blame the engine assembler if they failed ? My opinion would have to be no and I also wouldn't expose myself to risk doing that repair.

The Timeserts and the Heli Coils didn't fail in the video. The aluminium pieces and the bolts failed with the forces he was using. That's why it is critical on the BMW alloy blocks to check hardness, especially if a head gasket has failed or from severe overheating. A severe overheat can also cause the block to distort and run main bearings. As a precaution the blocks should only be planed with the crankshaft fitted and torqued. Heli coils and timeserts are really only a patch up for a failed engine block . A proper repair would cost more than these older cars are worth ie: a new BMW Long block assembly. The later blocks on the newer engines are going to be a nightmare to repair as well. Just look at the newer timing chains in the rear of the engines and camshaft configurations

Feel free to give me a call John or PM me with your mobile and I'll ring you

That's crack testing procedure Nathan not a hardness checking procedure

Yes there is

Hardness check the block first and use timeserts only. This VID is definitely DIY. I saw so much being done wrong in this video. Not a very good example to follow.

Privacy Laws in NZ will also prevent or dissuade anyone giving you that information as you are not the registered owner of the vehicle. This protects the seller unless he can offer you the information you desire.

I've just been talking with a highly respected BMW/Euro Collision repairer who said to walk away as you are not going to be able to check it properly anyway. If it was only minor damage it wouldn't have been written off.A starting point to check it properly would be removing panels. The seller would never allow that. I'm sure there is more to tell than what you have been presented with. Getting someone to check it is also and issue over liability. Personally with no proof of previous damage, I'd walk away.

Will the owner be willing for you to have it inspected ?

IIRC some Aussie flood damaged right-offs were brought in and repaired locally, but I'm not sure what year that was. We had a customer with a Mini that fitted that criteria. What year is the vehicle Kyu ?

Any pictures of the damage Kyu ??

There's 4 pages on it here : https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=940526&page=4

One owner and I'm unsure what year it is as it was a BMW gift I got for Christmas one year for selling thousands of dollars worth of parts. Hardly ever used as my children and grand children are sensible girls. You will need your own batteries but I have batteries to demonstrate. Won't sh*t it's timing chain or leak oil and coolant on your lounge carpet . This is a White Scale 1:14 model. Proof of funds for test drives required. Demo's and pick up only in Papakura Auckland Due to space requirements I am selling this at a ridiculous price of only $50.... yes $50 Sing out if you need more photos and indicate the image size you would like them at so you can Identify what you are about to purchase.

This replacement is very hard to do without compromising the eurothane sealing compound that seals the screen. The only way to do this without damaging the paint which will start rusting under the seal and without causing water leaks is to replace the seal when refitting the glass with the seal and new sealant which requires removal with out breaking.

I should take you fishing.... your good with bait Nathan

Seems our local criminals are now getting quite high tech in NZ now too. This gives you something to know and think about. There is a lot of info about this online to read and take note of if you have a keyless entry (fob) controlled vehicle. https://www.driving.co.uk/news/features/six-ways-thieves-can-break-into-a-car-and-how-to-prevent-it/

Most of those fault codes need to be determined using live data and going through a sequence of diagnostic checking using that Launch X431 not your code reader. You will need professional help to sort those issues out. Some of them could also be related to each other as well and be the result of something else happening to cause the fault code to be triggered.

BM Workshop in Auck & CHCH That's all we ever used in the business

What happens when you clear fault codes and adaptions, drive it again and rescan it ?