B.M.W Ltd

These have been known to give a lot of problems on the early Euro Bosch systems https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHZL_enNZ752NZ752&q=Early+bosch+rev+limiter+built+into+distributor+rotor&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjmn8zHpuXgAhUQXysKHSUAChcQsAR6BAgGEAE&biw=1600&bih=757 But there are so many things that could cause this. Fuel supply, blocked exhaust system,Cross firing in distributor cap, air flow meter. You need to go through things methodically starting off with all the basics . Without the right gear and knowledge you might have to seek help with this. Depends on your mechanical skill level.

Try AES in Henderson

Have a read:

Air leak. compressor side. Have you checked with a quality boost pressure gauge ?

Don't you mean Castrol Edge ?

They now support and supply Shell

Talk to BM Workshop Grey Lynn. They sell German ATE brake components. The only BMW brake parts we ever used and sold

Well done. You obvious;y have a healthy battery and had all accessories turned off. It doesn't always work out that way with different flash programs

So now you are going to use my near death experience that i shared on here to try and win a disagreement.... wow

This is 2019.. you can't offer 2000 repair procedures for vehicles that have entirely different operational and repair requirements . People come on here trying to find out what the correct procedures are. Not guesses or ... I think you could do this or that. DIY is not an excuse to offer such advice. The advice I gave to the OP is correct and I stand by that. You can offer what you like but your in the wrong sand pit with your advice.

This is what is wrong: "I am sceptical about the minimum requirements to perform some of the tasks described in this thread. You need to start with a good battery and if you do then it'll supply all the power you need, the charger/power supply is to stop the voltage dropping to an unacceptable level, you shouldn't need more than 8A for that (with a good battery)." Read the GYS manual .

Sorry Dave... you are wrong with regard to the OP's flashing requirements. The battery fully charged rate will not continue to give the required voltage over a period of time without the correct type of support. If the voltage drops it can take out the flashed module and others using the same circuit. Did you actually read the manual for the above GYS unit ?

Dave.... this was mine. Google and read what this can do and why you should use it. It might help you understand what is required when working on vehicles later than E36 & E39

Give me a call Dom...021921377

You need a battery charger that will maintain a minimum of 13.7 volts with the ignition on throughout the whole process of flashing without interruption of that supply. Especially if you don't know how good you car battery is. Diagnostic/ coding chargers are quite different to a battery charger and they are expensive. but they are safe. I sold mine. You may not find what your looking for on here.

This is not uncommon and often overlooked by people modifying vehicles Have a read https://www.aaen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/adradSTRAY.pdf

Peter did all my work for over 15yrs

Only use the one that Peter works at. Ring me if you want

+1 Ask for Peter Ph: 09-2635777

That's a real challenge

Which vehicle Logan ?

What are you using ?

To be sure do as Doug suggests https://www.google.com/search?q=Pin+outs+for+E39+ABS+module&rlz=1C1CHZL_enNZ752NZ752&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=t9wmskC8q1Z7hM%3A%2C_er9OzfNacpf1M%2C_&usg=AI4_-kR0h-epc2 If continuity is there try the tap test when the module is cold

Just remove the module. Unplug it and 6 screws. You can still drive the car and the brakes will still work... but that is still illegal (your choice) I can give you a phone number for a repairer up here in Auckland. My other contact has closed down now. Pm me or phone 021921377

That's a sure bet it's the module. I was going to suggest taking the module off and putting it in the fridge. The module can be repaired.