flake

put two nuts on the thread. back grip the bottom nut and nip up the top nut against the bottom one. then undo the bottom nut and it should wind the thread out. the top nut basically locks the bottom one from moving. make sure to use penetrate aswell. if your getting them from pickapart grab the whole lot and chuck them in your pocket. freebie did you manage to get the broken stud out?

NAC insurance were the only ones that would have me when i was 17 and owned a rs legacy. and when i brought andrews m325i i insured it with them for 7k and at the moment it costs me $900 per year for full coverage. bare in mind im 20yrs old so her's could be similiar. could try getting it insured in the parents name and have her as a second driver which should be cheaper. as long as he can trust her

in my last year as an apprentice plumber gasfitter. but on saturday nights i usually tell girls that im a pilot

OT but i was just wondering why this m325i doesn't have the OBC? mine doesn't have it either. edit: carjam says its not a motorsport

roof-less

yup once its all straight and stiff last thing i'll be doing is the respray. it will be in the same colour, polaris silver. and i will get the double pinstrip redone aswell. big fan of the pinstripe it really devides the look

ever since i got into bmws i've always loved tech1 e30s . tech2 is great aswell but i prefer the sharper lines and character of the tech1, which is why i brought one. car belong to andrew (APT) from auckland. '86 NZ new m325i . i pretty much brought the car blind as i couldn't view it, had to go by photos and emails full of questions. in the end when he picked me up from the airport i was very pleased with my decision the moment i saw the car. sure it was a bit rough but thats the reason i brought it, so i could make a project out of it. the car i basically unmolested. all original interior and black headliner. factory wiring looks very tidy and untouched. suspension bushes are probably original. body/engine has done 409xxxkms, has had recent head rebuild before andrew. not much rust in the body being nz new, sunroof apears to be mint, has a dent and rust on drivers rear arch, drivers side on top of the actual door, one hole in the engine bay around the battery tray area and a hole under the rear tail light. i'm yet to take out the carpet and look for any giant holes. haha rust doesn't scare me. my plan is to fix all the rust and replace body panels for straight ones replace any broken interior trims and give it a good tidy up. replace the door and boot seals as i have a swimming pool under the drivers seat and in the jack compartment in the boot. planning to leave the sound proofing as long term its gonna be my daily. replace every bush with urethane ones. subframe looks ready to fall straight out and the engine just about wants to go throught the radiator. when driving i can "feel" the play in the drivetrain. engine, gearbox, diff, subframe, trailing arms, CAB and swaybar bushes need to be changed. need people opinions on which bushes to use and where to get from. install my konis and king springs. take engine/gearbox out and give a good clean (see photo, its extremely dirty), replace rocker cover and sump gaskets, oil change, remove A/C, SS headers, bigger radiator, Z3 short shift etc. then respray i want to have the car off the road for 2weeks while i do all this so i'll need to source all these parts before i begin. it'll be a bit of work but i'm looking forward to it - [haha famous last words] for an old car it still drives very well, heaps of power and torque. best thing i've done so far is replace the dirty factory panel filter with a k&n air filter. $5 at pickapart, gave it a good clean and left it in the hot water cupboard for a day. huge improvement. was told at least $200 for one at repco a year ago... other than that not much else, i've just been driving it. so far i've done 1200km since last week. thats x12 more than andrew did in 4months. but anyway i wanna thank andrew for helping me throught the buying process, sorry for taking her away from you mate. i'll treat her right. photos this car has stance it has (reverse) stretch and it has poke your input and advice is welcome. thanks

cheers man, hit me up tomorrow morning and we'll play e30 and do skuds

what the hell throw them at me dude. i hope price includes installation

looks like it was made for that engine bay! what type of brake booster system are you going to be running

when i replace the sump gasket on my m50 it was as glenn said, a metal one with rubber seal. i also used some gasket goo and haven't had any signs of leaks. plus my engine has been sitting longer than yours.lol

spotted oli (DRTE30) going up molesworth st just after i finished work. car looked amazing, must have taken you like 10 seconds to go over the driveway turning down into the allyway by new world. with the coilovers in it now that thing is low!

wow give this guy a 10k a day P addiction and he'll be the next antonie dixon (edit spelling)

dibs on schnitzers. can get you cash tomorrow

wow i was just thinking about this before i went to bed last night. whats your plans to combat the front wheel position of how it sits off center in the guard when using all e36 front suspension gear? don't you need basically all e30 m3 stuff and it all just bolts in, no modifications needed. haha but what are the chances someone will have spares willing to part with. what needs to be modifided for all the e36 stuff to work? reason i'm asking is that i'll be interested in doing this one day. cheers

i've still got the ICV from my m20 if you want to test yours for faults? it the straight through one, not the right angle type. might not be the same as yours being a PFL. edit: i also have my old AFM too

i found the problem hadn't taken anything apart yet or changed anything, i just wanted to see where the smoke was coming from so i braved it once more. connected my loom plug, hooked up the battery and popped my head under the dash and sure enough i could see a little flicker of light/fire. removed battery, took a photo and upload to bimmer. the photo is of the back of the rev-meter gauge so this suggests i've connected a wrong wire to do with rev-meter (tachometer? revometer? ??? ???) so plan is to go back to the wiring to see whats happening, take the dash out and see the damage. i dont think there will be much, at first glance none of the plastic coating on any of the wires looked bubbly or burnt. but i will need a new gauge cluster just to be safe. oh well it's all fun and games. i'll need a hand after 5 tomorrow for an hour to help remove the dash, never done it before and i hear its a prick of a job. cheers

thanks john for running that by you of which wires i dont need. my bet is its something to do with spagetti wires in my loom connector. i'll give it a crack when i feel motivated tonight

on my e30 c101 side i haven't connected pin 6,8,10,12,20. sweet so 8,10,20 i don't need to worry about. i'm going to connect pin6 now. but reason i didn't do pin12 on c101 is cause there was no pin8 on my e36 side to connect it to. function of pin 12 on c101 is "ecu check engine". what does that mean? lolz

definatly didn't connect any of the ones in red. my e30 is a 1990. when i labled everything i did it by pin# not colour, but all the wire colours matched up with pin# from that table. i also haven't connected c101 pin6 to x20 pin22. e30 ignition relay to e36 o2 sensor doesn't sound right. how did you get on with yours?

wow 10 days went quick. plan was to have it running by friday to test it and drive to auckland on the saturday. so now i'm gonna postpone the trip till next saturday if i get the car running in time, if not it will be the next next saturday and so on till she runs. haven't gotten much more done since sorting the brakes on monday, stupid question but brake fluid isn't going to eat at the copper from the inside out is it? just wondering if i should remake them with stainless tube? mucked around with the loom wires, managed to reuse the e36 plastic loom holder. its not perfect but it looks abit more tidy. everything now has power to it and last night i began making my c101 to x20 connector. this morning i hooked the battery all up and put the key on, sweet, dash lights light up, sterio works, check panel tells me whats wrong (everything). take the key out, plug in my loom connector, turn key on again and go to engine bay to check for fires, nothing, go back into car ready to start the engine. (sniff, sniff) hmmm smoke. FFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU. key off, disconnect battery. guess i shouldn't have made my loom connector after 7 beers last night, woops. the smoke was coming out from under the dash on the drivers side so i'm thinking i have connected the wrong wire for oil level, tacho, coolant level or something to do with the gauge cluster. now the plan is to double check the wires on my loom connecter and connect the wires one at a time to see which one i'm doing wrong. another stupid question. what are the minimum wires i have to connect to get the enigne to start? as in, if by not connecting the engine speed, coolant temp or oil pressure will this effect anything for just getting the car to start? i am using the same wiring table as john did on his m50. advice? any clues? thanks.

let me know when you wanna push it off a cliff cause we can do mine at the same time

thanks for that i've connected everything else but have just left the 8mm wire taped up incase i decide to use it. makes it much easier to get to everything with the inlet manifold off. sweet i'll check them out. thats roughly how much i was expecting to pay for one didn't get her started today, had a play around with the wiring but managed to get it all tangled up and i got scared. i was also trying to figure how i'll insulate it, whether i just go mad with black tape and cable ties or if i try to use the original plastic cover. i seem to have an idea with it. and if all else fails. stand on your engine and look at sh*t re-fitted all the sensor plugs, heater coolant lines, ICV, starter motor wires, fuel lines, fuel rail, inlet manifold, coils packs and didn't want to look at the loom wires so i made a start on relocating the brake reservior. i was at bnt, repco and supercheap yesturday and none of them could help with pushlock type fittings and fitted into the rubber bungs on the master cylinder. *** (just to note i am using an e32 booster and M/C. to make the brake booster fit i had to slot the original mounting holes away from the engine to maximise the space between the booster and inlet manifold. also i grinded the finns off the inlet manifold and spaced the engine up 3mm to get clearance. and there is F@#K all. also had to rebend the brake lines to the M/C to get them to line up properly.) *** so being the master (apprentice) fabricator that i am. i got an idea to use copper tube to seal in the M/C and connect to the reservior as i have about 25meters of the stuff in the workshop. domestic copper was to big (1/2" ID) but i tried gas copper which is 1/2" OD (12.5mm outside diameter) and this fitted perfectly. so i bent up my lines to the reservior and connected to it with left over rubber fuel lines and hose clamps. but to stop the copper blowing out at the M/C end i put the rubber bung on first and "flared" the end of copper to produce a 45 degree lip all around it. this will basically make it impossible for the copper tube to slip out of the M/C and gives it a better seal. pictures cable ties are my best friend. finished product only things left to do is the exhaust, fit radiator and thermo fan, fill with fluids and bleed everything, install my wiring harness and get power and earths to whatever needs them, check everything is tight, get some front seats then do skids. yay BTW WTB. wow thats a coincidence of abbreviation. By The Way, i, Want To Buy. a set of black leather recaro front e30 seats only (not rears). a bit of a long shot but someone has to have something. name your price.

happy birthday man.

wow lucky i didn't put a picture of how i did mine then. crossmember meets BFH in a BFvice, needed a few decent hits but it lined up eventually. rough is good. this is just a temperary fit though, when i get the exhaust welded up i'll make a new crossmember to suit. so time is running out for it to get running and up to spec. six more days and hopefully i'll be driving it up to auckland. quite a progressive day today: refitted the gearbox and dropped the engine back in. (this has been like the 4th time i've had the engine in and out so i'm getting pretty good at it) driveshaft back in and all tightened up. figured how i'm going to remotly mount my brake resouvior, pictures tomorrow. brake fluid wont do anything to copper tube will it? recharged car battery which has been siting for 5 months and installed a battery to boot kit so i have some more space in my engine bay. hunted through diagrams and labled where all the fuel, coolant and vacuum lines go, as i have forgotten. made inquiries about the themo fan but got scared by the price. $200 trade price for a 14" electric fan from bnt, but it was a proper aussie race one. any ideas on what i can use or do i bite the bullet and get it? but i got stuck with wiring the starter motor. on the m50 side there is a positve feed to the alternator and two other connections. i think one is for the starter relay (black/green wire) and the other one is the starer ignition (black/yellow wire. this wire is thicker than the other one). now the starter motor has two earths (both connected to each other so basically one earth), a main power feed and another connection. do i just connect the two m50 side wires to the other connection on the starter, or does one of them need to connect to the smaller earth on the starter? i want to try get it started by the end of the day tomorrow otherwise have it going on monday. tuesday wednesday get the exhaust done and test drive thrusday friday and fix any hick ups to leave saturday morning. and meanwhile working 7 till 5 during the week. any advice is always helpful. thanks i'll have a decent write up tomorrow