slideways

Ended up buying a set of new springs. Thanks anyway

That's all for LHD swaps mainly. The UK guys seem to just bolt them together.

I have done it a couple of times now just by removing the flexi coupling and bolting the two shafts directly together. Just use spring washers and Loctite and you should be fine.

I wouldnt think it would be that bad. I measured the car at 180mm to the front subframe/lollipops so an off the shelf spring wont be that bad. Could be keen on yours if i dont find anything else by then. I assume they are the "Sports"? Let me know when they are out.

Im after some lowering springs for my 318i e30. Its just my daily driver so don't need the best brand out, they just need to be of the "super low" variety. Let me know what you guys have kicking around.

Saw your photo and immediately thought of this: http://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/news/10405333/Lawyer-gets-speed-camera-ticket-thrown-out

Gutted bro. Will definitely keep an eye out and should be easy to spot if there arent center caps and the limited range of cars they will fit.

Pm'd

I just viewed this car and it doesnt have an lsd like he says. Typical UK import with rust around the show including some dodgy rust repairs under the bonnet.

Turned one into beer/bourbon money..

Awesome, cheers for that. Basically the difference is because the 4cyl sits 25mm forward than the 6cyl? So you can get away with just using the rear half of the driveshaft in what ever car your putting it in to?

I have an e36 manual conversion kit that i have been keeping for a rainy day but now want to sell it. Its from a 318i but i need to know if it would suit a M5x vehicle too. If not then what parts are different? I scoured the internet before offering it up as e36s are new to me but there was nothing saying shifters/driveshafts etc are different between the l4 and l6 models. Everyone just seems to talk about everything as if its all interchangeable and i got the impression the gearboxes sit in the same place so it will work out fine but is this not the case? Any insight would be appreciated.

Yes its sold.. We struck a deal last night. Big things to come for this lil e30!

Looked at yours, they seem to be the 40mm kit. Did you ever fit them to a car?

I'm after a cheap set of 4cyl e30 lowering springs. Dont need to be anything flash as long as they give a decent drop (they are just for a cruiser). Would also consider a 6cyl set so let me know what you've got. Cheers.

http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/50182-e30-noob-though-some-of-you-might-know-the-car/ Someone here needs to buy this.

PM'd

Your head should be fine with a quick plane. If its cracked you will know with the excessive water in the oil as they usually crack along or between the cam journals. Id just pull it then get it tested/planed first then you will have a better idea on what you will need to buy to get it all back together.

Could have had a blown head gasket and some kind of additive to plug it up which has now let go. Ive had a head stud stretch on a m20b25 in turn blowing the HG so just because you havnt overheated it, doesnt mean the HG isnt blown unfortunately. It would be water in the oil which would be the easiest to spot so maybe take it for a good drive then check in the oil cap for choc milkshake.

Any water in the oil?

Sweet cheers dude, I will keep him in mind.

I was thinking more along the lines of a heat gun (might be worth a try). Maybe i shouldnt be so lazy and pull the cams off.

The leak down tests clearly showed its the exhaust valves not seating. Like I have mentioned before, the oil was very old and dirty and well it sounds very possible the lifters are gunked up with it. Its fairly varnished under the cam cover too. Who knows how long its sat for. If it ended up at pick a part then I wouldn't think it was happily driving around up till a few days before being taken there. Is there a way to heat them up and try free them without removing the cams? Don't I need special tools to remove and install the cams?

Yeah well I never had my hopes up and suspected something will have to be wrong with it. I naturally suspected head gasket but something minor like this isnt as bad because at least the block/head isnt scrap. Are these lifters prone to binding leaving the valves not to seat properly?

So I did a compression test today. Hooked a box and starter up and tested cylinder 1. Got 155 then 160 psi on two tests. Moved on to cylinder 2 and thats where things all went wrong. Couldnt even get a reading. moved on to cyl 3 and it was the same. No. 4 I got a small reading of 70 psi but then not reading at all for cylinder 5 & 6. I put the engine back up on the stand and did a leak down test. cylinder 1 was ok but then all the rest were leaking like mad out the exhaust valves. tested them all plenty of times making sure the pistons were at TDC. Cam lobes were all pointing up well away from the valves but no mater what, the exhaust valves just werent sealing. Whats going on here?? Anybody have any explanations?