euroriffic

Cheers guys, will have to remember that for next time. Ended up going with mainfreight as they do a door to door service for 225 and I can't be arsed ringing round trying to sort it haha

That's pretty good, mainfreight have quoted 215

Don't know about the M3 but I had the other two 36's screens replaced with what I can only assume would be Chinese replacements and have had no issues with with them.

have you or anyone used these groups before?

At this stage they are loose, possibly separately boxed up

So my usual courier contact is away for a month and I need a set of wheels with tyres sent down from Auckland to Dunedin but don't know who else to use that's got good pricing and reputation. Can anyone recommend someone? Thanks

I've always used ordinary silicone on my ones with no real issues. Could try urithane as a better sealer

Good to hear you got it sorted. That pump looks like it's seen better days, does the impeller spin on the shaft?

Get a bigger hammer haha. The one on my m3 took an to get off

Don't need to hold it, just kghit the 32mm spanner with a hammer afew times and remember its left hand thread

Yea I've read afew reviews saying they wear quick and then others saying they've had good life out of them but I'd say on our crappy roads will be abit more harsh on them so will have to wait and see. Also I have another set of wheels for the M3 so these won't be run all the time and I'm limited to 8,000km a year for insurance so should atleast get 2-3years ot of them.

I'm assuming the heater used to work before hand and a dodgey thermostat wouldn't affect it but a blockage or an air block will. Radiator could also be blocked causing the overheat. Otherwise it could be the valve not operating as to why theres no heat. Also The m50s can be a pig to bleed if not done right. If you can rule out you havn't damaged the head from it overheating I would be replacing the t.stat and pump as it's a cheap, easy and good mantainece even if its not at fault, more piece of mind knowing it's done and won't need done for another 80-100k. And get a new plastic or alloy (recommend!) replacement thermostat housing as you WILL damage it changing the t.stat. Refill using correct method-slowly and with the front jacked right up to allow air to travel up and out with heater on. If properly bled and heater valve is working it should blow warm,'if not you have a blocked heater core or still air lock so will need properly flushed and bled by the pros. Failing that just take it to someone who knows what they're doing. Can be alot easier in the long run

is pretty straight forward, Im sure we can sort it out for you at the meet tomorrow. And Michael (Antil33t) has his parts car there so will be able to get a replacement lamp easily enough

must.see.movie!!!!

I got them priced up at Milland for my touring and they only do the genuine ones at $100 a side. but if your ordering some from schmiedmann get two sets and Il go haves in shipping with ya.

Used to run the RE001 and 002's on the 328i and were a good tyre but had to replace the rears after about a year from the inner sidewalls failing so that sucked, and heard of afew cases of that happening so Im about to fit my new wheels with Nitto INVO's as I have read good things about them and are reasonably priced for the preformance and specs on them. theyre 225,4517s and 245,40,17s and came to 980 fitted I think. have to wait till the end of the month tho for the 245s to arrive. Gives me time to practice my wheel polishing skills

Yea your right there Michael, no point having a play car if it drives and runs poorly and potentially unreliable. Or any car for that matter!

ITS ALIVE!!! and better than ever! Got the last hose yesterday and the gaskets last week so all back together now and running like a dream. No more tappity tap from the valves and no more funny noise from the vanos when cold either which I'm stoked about. Idles so much smoother and seems to go alot better aswell. Changing the gearbox fluid from royal purple to redlines d4 ATF has made shifting so much smoother aswell. Rides alot nicer now too with the new front bushes and rear shock mounts aswell as not having to hear them banging around! Currently has the 18" style 32s off the touring which also makes a difference I think even tho it's the same size profile as the 19s. Now alls that's left to do is what's left on the cosmetic list but no real rush for that, wanna enjoy the car before winter sets in

It's a members car, have a look in the project forum

Ohh yes fair enough.That manual green one could be a good buy having a 20k service record from the last 5 years

Youl need to resize pics, google image resizer

Did you buy that red e30 vert in the end?

I'd say you just need to replace the lock barrel. Had a similar problem with my 328i where the barrel got jammed and wouldn't go into the start position. Have you had issues with the key spinning in the barrel? If so I'd say that's your issue. Cost me 430 for a new one from BMW. Have a look on YouTube for e36 ignition barrel removal for a how to

You could buy a nice e30 for that!

Il try sort out a time and day with the owner and let you know how I get on.