gjm

Dunno. I know that when I went into repco and asked if they would pricematch SCA, they said they wouldn't as it would be illegal; a breach of competition law, or something. That said, the guy I spoke to did go on to say they'd not yet publicised it but they would be offering 25% off oil the following weekend. Which is when I bought mine. Confusingly, I received a reasonable discount from another Repco store when I asked for it. I was buying 4x5L of Penrite Enviro+ 5W40 at the time.

Thanks guys. I did have a good look around t'internet to see if I could find anything but when I drew blank thought I'd ask. What I heard was that there weer discussions over raising the minimum age for a driving license (again), that the restricted phase would last 6 months (but could be accelerated by training) and that after 6 months a driver could take 1 passenger. (I understand they can take a passenger before that time provided the passenger holds a full, unrestricted license.) An unrestricted license would not be granted until after 2 full years of driving had been completed, although this too could be accelerated by appropriate training. Where the training is supposed to come from is another matter! I think the US approach where 'driver ed' is taught in schools is a reasonable idea. I don't have any experience of such things or what that would entail. I know my daughter's school has some driving theory lessons, but no practical instruction.

I heard a rumour earlier that an increase in the minimum age for a NZ driving license was being considered, from 16 to 17. Given I've just agreed to buy a car for our daughter, and committed myself (personally and financially) to getting it sorted, I have a bit of a vested interest! Anyone heard or know anything about this?

There's been talk of closing Glenbrook Mill...

I bought two (5L?) bottles of Valvoline VR-1 Racing 10W40 last weekend in Repco. Typically SCA is cheaper, but the 25% firmly tipped the scales in Repco's favour on that occasion.

I had a 1962 SWB Safari, with sun roof. In grey. Of course, us Landie types mean something completely different to what most people expect when we talk about sun roofs! Stripped it, rebuilt it, drove it everywhere. Loved it to bits. Mrs M hated it, claiming the suspension was too hard and made her boobs bounce. Tsk. Spoilsport. Originally a 2.25, it was bored, received a ported and polished 'head, hot cam, and twin SUs. Went like stink! The Fairey overdrive really earned it's keep, and the Fairey capstan winch (PTO) was awesome. I ran underbody runners so the winch could work to the front or rear. I'd love another, but right now isn't the time.

Curious thing about this car is that it seems to go quite well. I've driven a couple of E36 318i-engines cars, and this a lot more sprightly. It'll be down on power, but also down on weight.

Last I heard the plans were to shut Huntly... Hopefully something like you suggest could be implemented. I don't know the design they used there, but turbines typically don't care what is burnt to run them. The issue may be getting sufficient heat from the (waste) material used if they move away from the design spec.

I use a vertical bike pump (in biking jargon, a track pump but sometimes aka a stirrup pump) to check tyre pressures on our cars and adjust as appropriate. It's probably more precise than some airlines. I used one to inflate a Land Rover tyre once - 7.50x16. I've no plans to repeat that experience.

Price was (I think/hope) reasonable. Of course, that depends on your idea of 'reasonable', but in a market where E30 coupes can command $5-10k, yes, it was cheap. From what I could see, the body is OK provided the issues it has are addressed soon. And it is a 5-speed manual which seems to double the value these days.

It's a date!

Ta.

Heaven knows I'm going to need help with this one! This is the fabled car for our daughter. Maybe patience has paid off, or maybe I've dug myself a hole to fall in to. 5-speed (I think converted from auto) M10B18 coupe. Ex-Japan, with aircon. White. It had a Mtech bodykit fitted but this has been removed, meaning there is no front or rear bumper, no side mouldings, no side skirts. Extra wiring to the front for fog/driving lights. According to the VIN, it had sport suspension fitted as standard. Currently sitting on 16" rims, I'll be looking to change these for 15s - Style 32 or similar. May look to get another bodykit, or may just go for standard stuff. The PO has removed the rear opening windows, and then left the car outside so there is a drying out period required. New windows required. All areas under carpet are soggy but no sign of through rust. Drivers window regulator is shot. Window currently held sort-of closed by a piece of 2"x4" and some tape. Interior may not have been used to keep chickens, but probably hosted a couple of dogfights. Some rust here and there, and some welding will be required. Most rust appears to not have gone through as I was unable to persuade a hole through the metal. Front wing lowers behind wheels is a bit rough - potentially a sign of the issues of fitting a body kit which can trap mud, muck and water, allowing corrosion in areas you'd not see (because of the bodykit). Also, there is a third hole in the rear parcel shelf. Two for speakers, as BMW decreed, and a third for who knows what. Jagged edges, through to the boot space. M10 starts but is noisy on turning over - perhaps a starter motor bearing issue? Can be tough to start (i'm told, although it started OK today) which could be due to cold start issues. Runs fairly well but is tappety. Gasket and adjustment time. Heater has been bypassed. The open pipes are visible in the engine bay. One of the wonderful folk hereabouts advised this is not unusual and likely due to matrix issues. Nuisance value. Bonnet is tricky to open. It does work, but looks like the handle and release cable are no longer friends. Currently tempted to strip the car of all chrome and mountings, fill holes, grind lips and go 'smooth'. Would also fill door and side moulding spaces. More work, but cheaper than finding good chrome to suit. It also needs wing mirrors. Just need to tell Mrs M !!! <gulp> Offers of help, support, parts or... Well, anything, very much appreciated! Assuming I get past Mrs M, I have a little over 6 months (and a negligible budget) to get this sorted!

No worries. I hope to be having a look tomorrow - just waiting to hear from the guy who has it at the moment.

I'm probably a teensy bit older than the sort of person you're looking for but if I could get time off, I'd be there like a shot. My daughter is on holiday and would enjoy it, but doesn't have a license.

Nothing for my (rather archaic) Windows phone. I'm tempted to dig out an old HTC Desire just to see what all the fuss is about. IIRC there are several other similar products available, linking OBD2 to your phone (or laptop) via Bluetooth. I've not tried any, but can see how they might be useful.

I may have some at the weekend. Can't promise anything at the moment. Could have some 16" 4x100 rims, too.

Pretty sure I have something that might help... About time I did something to help you instead of t'other way around! Unless.... An E34 requires a specific clutch tool? To be honest I don't know, but if I can help, I will.

13/15 in 23s. I need to get out more. Or spend more time in the garage. One of the two. Certainly less time on the internet.

There's obviously pros and cons. Pros - you remove deposits that may otherwise get left behind. You could clean out the smaller oilways. Cons - sometimes the deposits that have been left are actually (especially on an older engine) sealing something so it doesn't leak! Also, the act of flushing coud push residue or particulates into the smaller oilways, causing a problem you were hoping to fix. Also, some flushing oils will 'clean' components, removing any 'good' and lubricating residue from them. It's important to retain this as the first engine start after an oil change will often see reduced quantities of oil present in the top of the engine. If a good oil has be used and changed regularly, flushing shouldn't be necessary.

Riverview Road in Huntly - west side of the river, but well towards the south side. We'll go have a look at a place in Naike tomorrow. The current owners have commuted to Auckland for years. Back on topic ( ) I'll fill the 320d up again tomorrow. Initial estimates are 5%+ more economy since removing the EGR gubbins, but that remains to be confirmed.

We looked at a house in Huntly last weekend. Really nice place, 4 bedrooms, view of the river, nearly 2Ha including 1 of uncovenented bush. Went to put in an offer on Tuesday and found it had been sold to a cash buyer. You gotta be frickin' quick.

>ouch!< No more work on the 320d today, but I am enjoying what appears to be a more economical drive since removing the EGR stuff. I have just changed the thermostat on the 500SE. Bit of a bugger of a job, but some patience and not rushing makes it easier.

I did an entirely DIY EGR delete on Saturday. Had too... The metal pipe connecting the EGR cooler to the EGR valve sheared off behind the flange at the cooler end. <sigh> Still, something I'd planned to do for a while. This just 'persuaded' me to do it now.

You're right - they won't fit the W126. Well, they can, but you'd need to use spacers and that's something I prefer not to do. However.... They will fit on my 190E. I'd not thought of going the larger diameter rims route, but may just do that.