gjm

There has been a suggestion passed up the line (so to speak) - the potentially interested party needs reassuring that Baurs don't leak when it rains!

Market has gone mad. Live rego, non-running, no WoF, 'small engine fire'. M20B20 auto swapped to M20B25 manual (cert status not quoted). Will require paint and wiring. Asking $10k. (Although will consider offers.)

Gavin is brilliant. Always helpful, normally has parts, organises fast delivery, and offers very good pricing.

Sadly, asking price is no guarantee or even guide of anything. Adverts are often sparse on detail, folk don't know what they re selling, wouldn't know an iS from a SE (or an ordinary spec), and then are 'extravagant' with the truth. I've seen remarkably good cars at lower prices, and truly horrible examples at megabucks. Buying sight unseen isn't necessarily a bad idea, but there needs to be rapport between buyer and seller.

I had a Chevrolet C10 pickup in that colour, about 25 years ago. Used to go drag racing in it - had 'Clockwork Tangerine' signwritten on the back of the cab.

Narrows my search. Thanks.

I've not looked - is there likely a single ground commoned for both sides?

2001 E46 318i. Sometimes - not every time - when using the indicators (very un-BMW like ) they will flash fast a few times, then flash at normal rate. Sometimes they'll flash fast and not slow before cancelling. Sometimes they will flash at the correct rate. I don't think they have flashed at normal rate, and then started to flash fast but it's possible. This happens in both directions - left and right. No towbar fitted or towing electrics. Doesn't appear to be a pattern as to when it does(n't) happen. Might be a hot day, a wet day, early morning, when having been driven briefly or for a while. To be honest it's kinda funky! Fast flash to attract attention, then a slower flash. I quite like it, but it is wrong. What's the most likely cause? Dirty relay contacts?

I like Z4s. Great cars, in my opinion. Just not very practical in rural Hawke's Bay.

Early Apfelbeck-designed 16-valve diametral cylinder head for M10-based engines, designed for F2 racing. Sometimes called a 'radial' valve engine as like valves do no sit next to each other - an inlet valve sits opposite an exhaust valve and the close adjacency helps keep things cool. These engines, known as the M12 and M12/1, made up to 160hp per litre, normally aspirated, in the late 1960s. The built engine with opposing intakes looks more like a V8 than a 4-cylinder.

Here's something quite special..

Zero safeguards. Never transfer any $ to someone you don't personally know. However, 'normal' legislation around private buying should apply.

I think runflats are factory original fit. You can change to 'normal' tyres, but you'll probably find you don't have a spare wheel.

I had an Almandine Red 2.5-16 when back in the UK. Paid £3500 for it, back when they weren't popular. Very nice car to drive. Only changes I made were to replace the anti-roll bars with Evo II spec. The stock 2.5-16 had lot of changes over the standard 190E, but resulted in a smooth-riding, quiet, comfortable car that handled almost unbelievably well.

The one and only. 🏆

ADAC GT Masters Lausitzring BMW E21 320 Gruppe 2 (h/t Marc Boels)

Of course, a Baur with a roof that doesn't leak, a stiffer body meaning better handling, and far, far easy sourcing of panels must be worth lots more, right? A 13-button OBC (missing from the example in the listing) and original seats can only add to value.

It is.