eliongater

Bump, new photos and lower price on Trademe https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1658483629.htm

About half that price and it’d make a great track and/or targa car.

As they’re both m30s the gearbox should bolt up to the engine fine. However you might need to check for a speedo drive on the gearbox (should be fine since it’s an e12 box). Unfortunately that’s as far as my knowledge goes on e3s.

It's not currently in a car and hasn't been for a long time. The guy who had it had e12s and e3s.

Thanks Brent. 4148346 is stamped on the block where the 7 digit engine number should be, which is confusing. @Jono51 thinks it’s a replacement engine, so perhaps they stamped the vin of the car there instead of the engine number?

Can anyone identify this engine? It's either an m30 or m90. 4148346 35 6e a 356ea

“Excellent race car” alright then...

@_ethrty-Andy_ USB itself doesn’t suck, it’s normally the sub par USB to serial adaptor. I almost got something working on my windows 10 laptop over USB, I only stopped because I didn’t know how to use the software so couldn’t test properly.

That I could fit an e36 boot lid into the boot of my e28. For anyone wondering, e28s have massive boots.

Thanks @musccoo and @_ethrty-Andy_. I can’t really justify a brand new Lincoln welder. Currently on the hunt for a 2nd hand BOC, Lincoln or Miller. I think I’ll take you up on that Andy.

@aja540i I had a go with my mates Lincoln 200C, and 50 amps seemed to work fine on thin stuff (admittedly that welder was smarter than us). @Olaf Any recommendations other than BOC? I know Lincoln and Miller are big names. Are you confusing this with mail order brides or do you have an exceptionally bizarre wielding shop? Regardless, I feel other members of the forum might need specifications......

Thanks for your input guys. I think I’ll probably spring for a boc unit (was already looking that way), though my dad still thinks I should get a cheap one with a 3 year warranty... I was always planning on running gas (was thinking Argo shield, but if straight CO2 will do the job cheaper I might look into that). I’ve seen flux core welds, not the prettiest. What amperage would you recommend for welding the body work on the e28, it’s pretty thin, so I’d imagine it’d be quite low. Would 50 A cut it or is that too high? There’s a used boc multi process 175 that’s caught my eye, however the mig minimum is 50A. @gjm no need for arc yet, but most multi process welders have it. Not a selling point either way for me though. @agent75 what’s the process behind convertering a fire extinguisher? That sounds like a cost effective way to go. @Olaf I would love to do the welding course, but both hours in the day and timelines make that difficult. @aja540i @Mr Vapour Thanks, that was roughly my thinking. Duty cycle doesn’t need to be too high, but I understand how it works. Already checked with an electrician and I just need the 15amp plug.

I’m looking to repair my e28, which is currently a bit rusty... There’s a fair bit of welding to do, including patching panels, repairing the front subframe, presumably filling holes and no doubt other misc jobs. I’ve been told tig by some people as there’s less distortion, but mig by others as it’s faster and easier (and cheaper?). Personally tig appeals, but more so for making parts rather than patching panels. I believe in order to get the most use out of the welder whilst still being able to weld thin sheet metal, I need to get a mig with a maximum minimum of 30 amps and a minimum maximum of 180 amps. Must be single phase 15 amps (or lower, though can’t see a decent welder being lower than that). I’ll be needing to purchase all of the associated paraphernalia to go with it. I personally don’t know how to weld yet, but know several people who can mig and a few who can tig that are happy to teach/help out. Not looking to spend $5k either...

There’s a different driveshaft for each gearbox (on my earlier link it also talks about driveshafts).

I could be wrong, but you might struggle to find one that’s a bolt in affair. As 245s were only found in one model of e30 (I suspect you have an e21 box). http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Drivetrain#Manual You may have to get a driveshaft modified to fit. However if it’s the same length as a 240 or 260 than there will be driveshafts out there. I’ve got a 260 (can’t recall the exact version) if you’d like me to measure it.

Which part of the country are you in? (I’m on mobile so it doesn’t tell me). If you’re in Wellington I’d suggest having a chat to Jon at Auto38.

My M535i isn’t going to fund itself... Details on Trademe

Bump, $5.5k ONO https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1616688916

Bump

My favourites were the inner guard bolts... British “engineering”...

Found these whilst having a browse on TM, they look to be flashier than your standard sports shocks, could be a good deal for someone? I'd also be curious to find out which exact model they are, but the look like PSS coilovers? https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/suspension/auction-1589109566.htm

Wellington, I've seen it around a couple of times, but when it was parked outside work I had to go have a perv haha. (Not sure I should be too specific as it wasn't just parked on the street)

I think it’d be worth less here than overseas. At the end of the day it’s a LHD 3.6 5 speed (rather than a 3.8 6 speed) to most NZ buyers. I can’t see it fetching much more than $30k if tidied up. In saying that, I still want it.

Bump