eliongater

Diff oil... to somewhat misquote star wars, it's "irritating and it gets everywhere"

$7k! Not a bad price at all!

I’m guessing you mean the 16x8 et23 (or 20) that for some reason aren’t on this list? http://www.bmwstylewheels.com/bmw/5

Do you mean the actual body or the strut assembly? I should have some non abs struts if your hubs are fine. I also have some guards and part of a front cut

@actletpone I think there were some posts removed that @qube was referring to

@BM WORLD or @HELLBM tend to have a couple of S engines floating around between them, so are probably able to give you a price on what they’d sell you one for.

No large coolant passage, but it's the block number is 35 rather than 34, which suggests a capacity of 3.5L rather than the standard 3.4 of an m30.

Do you have the centre caps for these?

This is so tempting, at least I can run these on my e28 unlike my RC 304s

Currently an m30b34 with a b35 head and a suspected m90 (needs more tear down before I can be certain) that I’ll be having a play with if it’s not too far gone. Why not an M52 or M54? That way an S5x will be a mostly bolt in affair as all the hard work will be done fitting the M5x in. Though an M52 is down on power (factory anyway) compared to an m30b34.

Nice project! Considered putting newer seats in? E.g. e34 sports seat. I know they're fairly straight forward to install into an e28, I would assume an e23 wouldn't be too dissimilar. If you're planning on scrapping the m30 I'd be interested in it to continue my Frankenstein m30s. Would you want to stay BMW with the engines or look further afield?

Thought about getting the existing one rebuilt? Then you’ll have a nice fresh gearbox rather than another gearbox of presumably unknown provenance

Oh my... Reminds me how much I like a clean alpine white

Should do being from an e34

@gjm is that an 8 series shooting brake?

I'm giving my 210mm LSD a tidy up (removing 30 years of gunk off the outside) before installing it into my e28. In doing so I'm replacing the seals. What're people's thoughts on genuine BMW vs, OEM, name brand (e.g. Victor Reinz) or popping down to my local bearing/seal shop? My understanding is, is that they're just a relatively normal seal and I just need to match the ID and OD and mostly match the thickness (currently running a 10mm instead of 9mm input seal). Output shaft, 76X50X10, 33107510289 Input shaft, 50x80x9, 33121213949 And of course a new locking ring 33121205138. Anything else I'm missing?

Whilst I'm comfortable doing smaller pieces, I'm not sure I'll be able to achieve a finish comparable to a proper spray gun on an area as large and prominent as the bonnet. I have sprayed bits of doors and was mostly successful (as well as can be expected with new paint vs 30 years of fade). I feel that from a result vs time/effort view it's easier to pay someone to do it properly.

Passed on the 120d, suspect 50/50 on missing a bargain and dodging a bullet. Rough idea on how how much it’ll cost to get an e28 bonnet painted? (In none other than bronzit...)

They must really dislike speeding tickets?

As in I think I know which Aaron from Porirua haha

I think I know who it is too

Wow... It's like my e28, but that's manual and was an order of magnitude cheaper.

@M3AN m parallels to vanilla e60 wheels with the wrong tyres on them...

People doing things that devalue their car (e.g. changing wheels) but not updating the Trademe price... I’m sorry but I’m not going to pay the same price for less stuff

@KwS Valve cover gasket would make sense. It could just be that or it could be excess crank case pressure (which in turn ruins the gasket) due to large carbon build ups from short trips?