booloveblankie

Hi guys, My E30 is having issues... Again. Under specific loading conditions, there's a notable loss of power and an audible sound between 3000-4000rpm. I've tried to capture it in the video but didn't do too well. That and my "camera mount" kept talking. Typically part throttle under acceleration on the flat, or anything from half to full throttle up hill. Sounds like launch control is engaged (IE unburned fuel igniting in the exhaust). It doesn't seem to occur when the engine is cold. Apologies for the video... Couldn't find the right mount to get good footage of the tach so I had to make do with a friend's arm. Any help is appreciated!

First, talk to the seller. Raise your (friends) points and see how he responds. Attempt to reach an agreement. If that doesn't work, file a dispute against the seller. Can claim up to $15k. No legal representation allowed within the hearings, relatively inexpensive filing fees. Just make sure there is irrefutable evidence of deception - be it intentional or unintentional, it doesn't matter to the law. If it is indeed not a genuine Evo that was sold to your friend as a genuine Evo, that's pretty open and shut. The hardest part will be quantifying the loss value. http://www.justice.govt.nz/tribunals/disputes-tribunal

Do you mean <100,000km and <$20,000 or are you looking for an expensive, high km example?

Can you post pictures of the extractors?

Here's a really good link http://lmgtfy.com/?q=e30+sports+seats

Dropped it off with Kayne Barrie yesterday, as I figured it was a bit over my head and I generally had no idea whether it was even in decent nick. Thanks for the advice though, Geoff. Much appreciated.

Pulled my E30 open diff apart as I have LSD centre waiting to be put in. However, I cannot figure out how to pull the speedo sensor tone ring/reluctor/chopper wheel (not entirely sure what to call it, so see attached image) off of the open centre. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Bought that kit and was the first thing installed after I bought my car. It's a kit NZAD assemble themselves but it is a Gates belt and GMB waterpump (both well known brands). My mechanic had a few issues with the oil seals supplied but NZAD assure me the seals are good.

That's a bit sh*t! Young dude and his dad (drives an E46 M3) who live up the road from me, was in really good nick. Noticed it had a small prang 2 months ago (left side of front bumper is mostly from that - mostly just paint damage) but this is just hard to look at.

Possibly a long shot but I'm after number 12 in this image Part numbers 51712239877 and 51712239878 PM me or email [email protected] Thanks a lot Blake

New handbrake shoes - only took me 2.5 hours as well. Usually these small maintenance jobs take me the whole day! Feels great being able to trust that I can park on hills.

This forum has 9468 members (according to my calculations) compared to Ebirth Electronic's 2948 "likes". On top of that, we all know it takes a lot more effort to become a member than it does to click "like" on a facebook page.

Bought this a month or two ago and it seems to work pretty well. Can get to the diff no worries but front needs to be raised first to reach a solid jacking point. It's also really light! No double pump like hybrid's post but it is $150 cheaper so choose your poison. If you're really serious, there are beasts like this which are seriously low and seriously long, but because it's steel it comes to a whopping 50kg!

First of all, you can get them for less than half that price. I bought some for $25 NZ, left bad feedback because the dead pedal didnt fit (these are designed for LHD cars with larger dead pedal) and the seller fully refunded my money. Not the seller I used but similar price. Haven't installed yet as am still undecided as to whether I like them or not. Painted M logo is poorly done, black "aluminium" looks ok but rubber backing is weird. They screw through your normal pedals. So if you decide to take them off you're stuck with holes in your accelerator (clutch and brake can be re-covered by standard rubber, but you would have holes through metal pedal face). The supplied screws will need a trim as they stick out heaps. I doubt accelerator could go full throttle without trimming them. Alternative I found was these guys. Seriously nice stuff, superbly made. Says all kits come with dead pedals but none shown in RHD photos. However, damn expensive.

Cheapo vinyl that's been ripped - hence the strategically shot photos that don't actually show the bottom of the front seats

Your life seems tough! If you ever run out of space, I'll gladly look after one of your projects

Nice ride, looks really clean! Two quick things: 1) A light ECU tune does wonders! My old man's E60 M5 went from averaging 30L/100km around town to 20L/100km around town, with increased throttle response, more power and the low end power bog greatly reduced. Cost just under a grand from Superchips (had two or 3 tune options as well, dad went for the more conservative "fuel efficient" tune), lots of other companies have reputable tunes as well - NZPT, Dinan come to mind. The tune also removed the top speed limiter to allow the full 330km/h rather than the measly 255km/h 2) Your front splitters (AC Schnitzer reps?) will catch coming off speed bumps - and those daft parking curb stopper things. Actually - previous number plate is BLUEFN? Any connection to Superchips' Bluefin? Anyway, welcome welcome!

I'll keep that in mind!

About twice a year. Previous owner lived on the shore until very recently - it's possible you were seeing him

Reps. Genuine has 18 spokes these have 19 (or something along those lines). Eyelids were removed before I purchased. Front bumper is in need of some TLC, hence I'm reusing Jaydubs old photos

Obviously the coilpacks add 20hp per cylinder

Continuing from intro thread: Bought Jaydubs 325i. Very nice, all swell. I have installed understeer SSK, ERK and mechanic has since installed UUC dual sheer selector rod (had to change selector joint, etc...). Also done by the mechanic: Front control arm bushings, cambelt, waterpump (had never been replaced before!), crank/cam seals (crank seal had not been replaced for a looong time - took mechanic 3 days to remove crank bolt as it had seized a long time ago), driveshaft coupling, E32 750iL brake master cylinder and braided brake lines. There was also an oil leak from the rocker cover (gasket sealant had not been used whenever the gasket was changed) so a new one has been installed - with sealant. Rear subframe bushings were in good nick so he left those in. Left rear brake hose fitting had seized as well so I have 3 braided lines installed... E32 master cylinder is fantastic! So much better than the previous spongy pedal. Not quite on par with newer BMW brakes as there is a very slight delay before any braking force is exerted (maybe due to firewall flex?), but once through the delay it is like pushing against a brick wall. If anyone is interested in the DSSR - it's like a damn bolt action rifle! Very little play. Ran into an issue though - in 2nd, 4th and in neutral if I was resting my hand on the shifter, the DSSR would hit the driveshaft. Sounded like a jack-hammer. Fixed that after I got home from uni though. Ground a notch out of the DSSR with a drill. Worked a charm. Although I do keep picking aluminium filings out of my skin... Pretty annoyed with understeer.com. Short shifter was good, but the DSSR was a nightmare. Just a constant headache. First I got an email about having to pay for shipping (site was plastered with "buy this, get free shipping!!!"). Then the dssr didn't work with the pre 88 selector joint - nothing about that on understeer's website. A now the DSSR hits the driveshaft - even with the ERK which raises the shifter height substantially! In fairness though, DSSR and ERK were made by UUC - but I still feel the seller should do some product testing. In other news, the clutch is effed and I probably should have had that done at the same time. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. It's definitely slipping now... But I gotta wait until pay day!

Is yours an 89 build? Mine is registered as 89 but is actually an 87 build. Reason I ask if there are two different types of handles (with, surprise surprise, two ever so slightly different fittings) with the latter being used from late 1987. Check out this page. I have an early crank and the cheap MTC crank (The one ECS sells) which I am under the impression has the new fitting, but cant get either of them to fit... When (if) I finally fit it, you can have whichever crank I don't need.

Thanks mate. Rim is a 7" and tyre is 195, but still plenty of tread so wont be replacing them any time soon. A 10-15mm spacer would probably do it but I'm not spending any money until I get this coming mechanics bill...

Nice car! I'll let you know when the car is back from the mechanics - with new bushings and DSSR, but from swapping out the plunger for the SSK it's drastically reduced. Still a bit of play as I wasn't able to replace the bushings hiding at the top of the gearbox, but nothing near as bad as what it was.