Olaf

12k you can get a Z4. 10k you can get a decent Z3. I'd not touch an SLK, nor the Honda S2000. no Audis. No frenchies. Yep, it'd be the Bimmer - eaither or. I'm not biased.

agreed. I spoke with the repairer who did the mirrors on my e46, after they were nicked. Insurance job. I wasn't entirely impressed; however, fixed price from insurance company, used parts from down south, freight costs, painted mirrors, installed - one didn't work. needed to get another mirror, another call out for the auto sparky to fit the mirror. No extra money from the insurers. I asked him about his business sources, and the margins. I asked him how he made any money - he said they didn't. Hard to make money as an approved insurance repairer. No car-yard business (too low margin). They're trying to survive on low-margin insurance work. Where they make their money is on the walk-ins, and return business. It's a 13 year old car; yes, I'm an enthusiast... no, they're not. I won't be engaging them for the additional work I had them quote on (bumper touch-ups/repaints, small dent in guard, a few minor items); no repeat business there from me.

what's the gen on the Morels, Charles? Straightforward replacement with factory head unit? Time I was looking for something suitable for my e46, standard japanese aftermarket need not apply!

outstanding.

what, you mean like the claim to Radio Spectrum? Clearly, telecommunications existed in godzone before it was even invented in the northern hemisphere! Marconi, Edison... they all hailed from northern iwi, eh.

looking good Dan!

yes indeed, should be cool when you get it on the road. kudos!

but ya know, if he gets some, like, stickery rubber on them rims, it'll be a, suitable, errr mitigant, yeah? Pedantry. it's how we roll.

man, it still has Rego you can cash in. Score!

I put a full set of KYBs into my VW Golf A2 GTi 16v. they lasted a year and a half. replaced them with Boge Turbo - ride transformed. Conclusion - the KYBs were sh*t. I replaced factory oil filled shocks on A32 Maxima with KYB Excel. Stiffened up the ride, improved handling. Were still on it when I sold the car 4 years later. They're okay. For the effort of changing shocks, and all the cost of mounts, bushes, fasteners etc - I think KYB's are a false economy. I'd be going OEM (Sachs) or Koni or Bilstein. my $0.02 worth.

get under it - when safely supported. take rag and can of WD40. find part numbers on your shocks. write them down. good start.

I dig the e46 touring, have had mine for 2.5 years and done about 38,000 kms (it's now on 148k). It was a fresh import with Japan service history. Not convinced of the argument buying at 110k kms providing for 40-odd kms of low-maintenance motoring! I've spent two years catching up on deferred maintenance, and discovering the numerous 'common failures' of the e46. Don't get me wrong, I really like driving it. I am left wondering if the e90 touring is a significant improvement - I hope it will be! I now have what is a pretty well-maintained example! Just need to get that new AC compressor sorted, and it's time for new shocks and mounts/bushes etc. Do your homework before you buy up, it could cost you plenty.

south of the bombay hills, mate. in the dim and distant past, I used to leave my vehicle parked at the Top of the Bruce on Whakapapa for 4-5 days at a time, it was often buried in snow. Poor little A12, ISTR it was 15w40 or 15w50 back then! ooooh, high-tech multigrades! Duckhams Hypergrade 15W50, and that recycled low-sulphur BP oil 'Envron'.

maaaaaaate. did you run a magnet over what came out of the sump afterwards?

for a tape from japan you'll need one with NTSC playback capbility. more common on the later kit. or luck-out with a full multi-system unit.

how was it that Sheryl Crow song started? "I like a good beer buzz, early in the mornin'.." just the time to be researching vehicles I guess.

I'm much happier with the way my M54B25 is running on Penrite HPR5 than the last 2 or 3 changes on Castrol Edge 0W40. I know it's LL (something) certified, don't matter much to me as I'm changing oil and filter at 10k intervals. I've been a loyal Castrol user for more than 20 years, I've changed to Penrite synthetics on both my vehicles (HPR10 in the other), better value and improved performance (reduced noise, use) for street use over the main players. I'm not an oils engineer; I did a lot of reading and then decided ultimately to make a consumer decision and get on with it. If I was racing or nurturing a newly rebuilt engine, it might be different. If I were having my oil changed by my trusted independent, I'd be going with their recommendations (such as Glenn's recommendation, above). +1 on the bulk-buying front. I bought 20l Fuchs DexIII ATF to flush my Volvo trans, significant $ saving over buying 5l packs at retail. cheers, hope that helps. Olaf

it was Nikasil that was the problem - Alusil was the solution. it's worth reading up on, as you suggest.

engraving hint: use tape. rule your guidelines. carefully print your script on the tape, stick to the substrate. use slowest rotational speed on your engraver that you can, and try to maintain your hand at same angle to the substrate as you trace your words. I've found that it catches and wants to head in its own direction when I've leant the cutter head over. take your time. I've done some using an engraving cutter on my dremel with handpiece; with some patience you can get good results. peel tape off afterwards, boomshankah! HTH Olaf

thanks for the swift response, and solid advice, Glenn. I got it all sorted today by Page in Wellington, back to swift and un-hesitant window lifts. I'll keep an eye out for the others going. Olaf

as a design engineer used to say to us techies when we'd sleuthed out and found a solution to a pre-production issue: "good sussing". what was the gasket/seal in question? I was wondering from your descriptions if it was a temperature sensor somewhere in the chain sending an erroneous signal to the DME. Air leaks cause some pretty interesting issues with our vehicles, eh. cheers Olaf

interesting thread. I learned how to make good coffee on a commercial 2 group machine, working amongst a group of techies some years ago. these guys were so serious about it they'd done the barista courses. I think mostly for the satisfaction of being properly trained and knowing how to do it right, and partially for the ultimate "FU" bragging rights. I have it on good authority that the E61 based machines, as Ron notes, are indeed the best. S'funny. I don't drink coffee. However, on the basis that life is too short to drink sh*t wine (or listen to bad HiFi), if you enjoy good coffee you owe it to yourself to learn how to do it right, and get a decent tool. I mean, do people consciously decide they're too lazy and elect to be a crap shag?!

M3AN, if you figure out how much you want for it, give me a PM. I get some codes on my USB-connected ScanTool 423001 ElmScan 5. I have to run it in a Virtual Machine under VMware Fusion under OSX on my MacBook Pro, as I am an apple fanboi; I'd prefer something that lets me read all the codes, all the time! Wish there was good software that ran under OSX to support all these readers...

thanks guys, I came here looking for precisely this issue today; last night I noticed the front passenger window was very slow to wind back up. SO I replace the regulator for that door... are the rest of them likely to fail soon? 2002 e46, 147k kms. cheers Olaf

I can only offer that it takes one to know one! I was there too. #8 ) given I'm nearer my fifth decade than the start of my forth, I am qualified to take the p*ss about the 80's providing the humour is self-deprecating cheers