Herbmiester

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/535i/listing/3819699417 What about this one?

E34 rear mounts are a completely different design.

I wonder how much the malfunctioning EGR has had effected this.

Yes lets ad this to the list

Well I just discovered a knock in the passenger side rear. Not sure what it is yet but I am thinking its like bushes. So that will also be getting some love. I will probably replace the dog-bones, swaybar links and subframe bushes.

Well I went down the same path a few years back and ended up with an X5 40d 7 seater factory M Sport. There are lots to like: it is quick to be sure and wins traffic light dragstrip contests regularly. It also handles well for a 2t vehicle and my road home will test the ability of any vehicle in this regard. The N57 is the issue. Mine has had a myriad of problems; it needed a new glow plug controller and the vacuum pump failed. This cost me 5k but the mechanic did a full inspection while the pan was off and said everything else was great. The EGR is an issue and I have chosen to delete it. Pramod will code it out soon. Based on the research I have done the vacuum pump was a rare issue but the EGR is a common cause of problems, the upshot is that those that delete the EGR are almost universally happy with the result. Ironically it results in a cleaner engine and there is some evidence to support longer engine life. I suspect I have leaking injectors as my oil level is rising, I will have this rectified soon and I think that will be the end of it. I considered and N55 and drove one. There was a noticeable torque deficit but its not as bad as I thought it might be compared to a 30d but quite noticeable compared to a 40d. It revs higher of course so overall its not much slower if at all. As to timing chains I have come to the conclusion that the N57 with good maintenance will go past 200k kms. I did a fair bit of research on this mainly around when UK based vehicles started to have issues and yes they could fail as low as 160k kms but this was when service history showed late oil changes or missed changes. High quality oil frequently is as always the key, there are plenty that will go 250k kms.

My notoriously unreliable X5 40d has now got another issue. This time its oil level, too much. I noticed this a couple of weeks ago and I though perhaps it was lightly over filled when I had the vacuum pump replaced. I verified on the dipstick that it was slightly over the max fill level so I siphoned out around 230mls using my little vacuum pump. I checked the dipstick and this gave me the correct level and the computer agreed. I have since done approximately 200km and the warning is back. Could I have a leaky injector what else do I need to check?

The 540is is the one I think, but I am biased.

If you look at Europe and to a slightly lesser extent E34's are on the rise. Not like E30's to be fair but certainly appreciating. I see it happening here as well.

I have done firmer bushes in my e36, 46 and 92 and have been very happy with the result. I do agree the ball joints are probably gone so complete arms are probably the way to go. Meyle HD are probably where I will go and as reccomended the idler arm bushing.

Possible fixer upper, looks tidy. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/540i/listing/3891841069

I have been giving a bit of love to the 540is and realise its time to do the front suspension. I have recently replaced the front shocks with some Sachs, factory sport replacements and this certainly made a noticeable difference. While there I also replaced the spring pads, bump stops, end links and boots. But there is a vagueness to the front end and I suspect its worn bushes. I am contemplating pulling the thrust arms and replacing the big bush's with powerflex inserts but as it appears to be the original arm I suspect the ball joint will be pretty worn. Not sure if the ball joints are replaceable or do I just go Meyle HD? Let me know what you have done and how its worked.

I do like the look of this 540i. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/540i/listing/3880865150

Yes mine were cracked and the mechanic put some sealant around them, it looks like that was not 100% successful. I will have to revisit this and possibly get the Silicone out.

Well after a year I am back and I still have EGR codes and have decided to remove the EGR and get Prmod to code it out. Inspecting the engine today I noticed that there is moisture and some corrosion around the injectors. Any thoughts?

I had the sump off mine recently and the mechanic inspected the chain and said it was fine. I am at 135k so hope for another 70k at least.

I replaced the PCV valve, it can be bought as a separate part from the rocker cover. I still have issues and Pramod will soon delete the whole EGR system in software and I will fit an EGR delete.

Not getting me super excited to be fair but each time I see it I like it a wee bit more. What really bugs me is that it weighs over 1700kg, that's nearly the same weight as V8 Commodore.

I had a few Tamiya's that I sold a few years back, A Frog a Boomerang and a Bigwig. Loved them, lots of fun.

Hi team, I went to send a message to Pramod but he is no longer able to receive messages, anyone know how to get hold of him? I assume he is still doing Coding etc.

One is a lot faster than the other. Drive one then drive the other and its very evident. I was taken in a bit by all the 130i fans here raving about the 130 and in isolation it was quite a nice drive but the 135i is a rocket in the comparison. As to the repair bills my mates n55 is no more expensive to maintain than the N52 in his old 5 series. N54's yes can be expensive but as most will know it what's bolted to the engine that has issues rather than the engine itself.

I will say that that the 130 vs 135 argument goes out the window when you drive them back to back. That turbo torque is just addictive.

No oil pressure issues yet. I have decided I am going to take the sump off and have a closer look.

So the Vacuum pump on my X5 40D (N57) is failing. I checked vacuum at the block by removing the tube that goes into the block and there was no vacuum. So it looks like I have a gummed up vacuum pump. Probably carbon inside because after the engine has warmed up the pump frees itself up and I get vacuum again. Looking at my options I could drop the sump and see if the vacuum pump could be serviced. A left field alternative is to use an electrical aftermarket pump and have it certified. I have fitted an electric pump to a friends big cam V8 Chev and it seemed to work quite well. Before I go down that route I am curious if anyone has serviced an N57 vacuum pump? Can it be done? Time is ticking away here so if you have any info please let me know ASAP. Thanks

I went through this and just bought a replacement from FCP.