jon dee

Maybe yours, but not mine though.... Cheers...

Cheers...

Faster than you can say... WUT !!!!! This engine revs to 12,100rpm and gets there in 3/10th's of a second !!! The rpm rise rate is 28,000 revs/sec which is about what you might expect if the flywheel parts company with the crank while your average high performance engine is at WOT. https://www.enginetechnologyinternation ... eased.html Naturally aspirated 3.9litre V12 making 650hp with more technical tricks that you can poke a stick at... this truly is cutting edge stuff. I'd have this over that 1000hp lump Cheers...

Because this stuff is kind of interesting, I had a bit of a poke around to learn what VANOS actually does And found this... And a bit more... Basically, as a total novice to this kind of VVT, it seems to me that Vanos ON is good (except at idle) to improve cylinder filling through the mid-range. Somewhere around 4500- 5000rpm Vanos switches OFF to improve VE. So I would say that leaving Vanos ON through the full dyno pull does hurt your torque compared to turning it OFF at (say) 4500rpm. VVT is designed to improve torque at lower rpm's by reducing overlap on longer duration cams. However, for maximum performance at high rpm's you need the overlap to take advantage of better cylinder scavenging. Perhaps some experimentation with the Vanos switching point is in order to get the best of both worlds ? Cheers...

Here is a link to a HALTECH video that shows the "money is no object" way of tuning with EGT's... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NoFfck5v4c Depending on how serious you want to get, you can work your way down from CANbus to something more mundane that the average bloke has a chance of understanding You will need an engine computer (ECU) capable of running sequential injection and ignition for an eight cylinder engine, and with the capability to do individual cylinder fuel trimming. A decent laptop to run the ECU software and make tuning adjustments, plus eight EGT sensors and a controller to generate outputs for your laptop. Your ECU should have inputs for at least two WBO2 sensors (one for each bank) and all the other sensors that you need for tuning, compensation tables and failsafe / engine protection features. You will need to research and plan carefully, and then check your plans with a reputable performance engine tuner to make sure that you are on the right track. Choose an ECU that your tuner knows and loves. HALTECH are good but there are others like LINK who should be able to do what you require. Cheers...

Andre Simon said this on the topic of.... Individual cylinder tuning via EGTs Thread here... https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/individual-cylinder-tuning-via-egts So basically use the individual cylinder fuel trim to get the EGT's evened out and then tune your fuel map by AFR as usual. At least that's how I read it Cheers...

Looks like a pretty mean all rounder... drive to the track... race.... then drive home. Winner at the stop light drags too Cheers... https://carbuzz.com/news/bmw-2002-transformed-into-803-hp-monster

I was looking to see where in the engine speed range the N54 achieved peak torque and found this graph. I was expecting to see the normal "twin peak" type torque and hp curves, so a bit surprised to see the flat peak torque curve starting from 1500rpm. Looks like those two little turbos spool so early that BM have to limit the boost to stop breaking things. Having two turbos the same size probably makes it more difficult to run them sequentially as some makers have done, and torque limiting gets around the problem of the turbos appearing to run out of puff very early. Controlling the N54 and keeping the engine safe under all driving conditions obviously will require a lot of clever tuning to get all the variables working in harmony to achieve maximum performance. I don't understand half of what the DME is doing... so I don't intend going any further than MHD and a few hardware upgrades on my car. It goes well enough to keep me happy, and hopefully I can get a decent run out of it without anything expensive breaking Cheers...

Shouldn't be any sort of a problem. On another car (not a BM) I got misfiring on a long hard pull (flying quarter mile) with stock plugs. Cured it by changing to one step colder and never bothered to change back. Car was a DD for my wife for years and never had any issue. If you up the boost from standard and get misfiring under prolonged high load, it is pretty much standard practice to go one step colder and close the gap a little. Cheers...

And here are the credits.. Cheers...

Again, just guessing, but the DME charge temp vs timing correction table is probably calibrated to keep the stock engine clear of detonation. So the engine loses power gradually as the charge temp rises, rather than having the ECU suddenly pull 8 or 10 deg of timing when the knock detector reacts to the onset of det. It's a pretty good system for the stock tune, but a bit harder to predict how it will cope with a custom tune if the correction table is not adjusted for the higher cylinder pressures. Yes... you would definitely want to go one step colder on plugs for race day. They will be OK for normal driving providing your daily commute does not involve extended crawling in city traffic. Cheers...

... go big or go home (turn the volume up) Cheers... Smoke them if you got them.mp4

As it happens, when I downloaded the logs from Datazap it seems that somewhere along the way the headers got modified so that I could view them with my usual log viewer. Hoping to learn something I thought I would take a look and see if I could figure out what goes on with the MAP reading. My car logs MAP in psi relative to atmospheric pressure, thus boost logs from zero to 17psi (for example) and off boost logs from zero down counting backwards... idle is around minus 7psi. I am not familiar with how other logging setups log MAP but I don't know of any way that you can have idle at 30kPA and 17psi of boost at 120kPa on the same scale !!! Be that as it may, I have attached a couple of screenshots showing what I believe to be the dying stages of your last Session 5 race lap. Both of them show what appears to be an anomaly in the ignition timing (marked with the traditions red circle for the hard of vision) while the car is coasting down. Those two spikes are more than 10 degrees of advance, and providing the engine is not in fuel cut, that would cause a couple of "bumps". Curiously, the Excel figures do not show anything unusual happening at that time point so I have no idea how they get to appear in the graphs I can't view the VBOX logs... maybe you could check that one. I don't know anything about how the DBW system works, but I guess the two throttle position readings are what your foot is commanding vs what the DME decides the throttle butterfly should be doing. As mentioned above , there is a big jump around the 602 second mark, but that could just mean that the DME decided that you were already on the boost limit and there was no point in opening the throttle any wider ? Maybe someone who is more into BM engine controls can help you out ? Cheers...

Just about all log viewers work fine with comma delineated .csv files. But the viewer I like is one that was provided by an ECU manufacturer and it is a bit fussy about the headers and the order in which they occur. There is one oddity that I noticed in your logs, and that is that sometimes the figures in the columns randomly change from values with 3 decimal points to values in whole numbers ? It is almost as if the logger has lost the input signal and just reverted to filling in the gap with the last known value (rounded up or down) until it gets the signal back again. Are you able to discover if this is something that VBOX would do ? The only time I have experienced anything like that is when my old laptop could not keep up with the sample rate of the ECU output. I see that the VBOX has pretty high sample rate so I wonder if it is a bit fast for your tablet ? Of course, if the VBOX logs internally for you to download later, this situation would not apply. Cheers...

Yah... basically, the clip sits down in the groove until the lugs on the hose end fittings get under as you push the parts together. Then the clip is pressed up out of the groove until the lug gets far enough in, and then it snaps back down into the groove and the parts are locked together. So if the clip is down in the groove on both sides you are good to go Cheers...

Was having a look at your logs but not having much success. My usual log viewer won't load them for some reason, so I had to use the off course substitute from the internet It can't handle the whole log, so I just picked a few lines as a sample and trimmed out all columns that didn't have much relevance. Having done that (and since I am unfamiliar with fly be wire trickery) I'm not sure what I am looking at ? The TPS appears to flatline at 87.451% and the MAP at 120kPa. I believe that the ECU will set the max TPS where it thinks it should be, but I doubt that 120kPa is correct as that is only 3psi of boost !!! Overrun and idle kPa looks about right at 30kPa or thereabouts, so I don't understand what is going on with the MAP reading ? Temperatures look good and timing goes up and down as expected. Is it possible to select other channels from the OBD port for logging ? For example fuel pressure and AFR ? These would be a more helpful for trouble shooting. Cheers...

On the bright side... in 20 or 30 years time you will look back and laugh about the problems you had fitting this intercooler Cheers...

I just re-used the factory screws to hold the cooler up... that's what I had at the time. Made sure they threaded back into the plastic without cutting a new thread and tightened them until the lugs on the cooler were hard against whatever they bear on, and snugged the screws down. Was careful not to over-tighten them as I notice that most of the screws on my car that screw into plastic have stripped threads from over-tightening (fkn power tools!!!). I have bought the Champion "hanger bolts" and was surprised to see that they don't look to have any more thread than the factory screws. So the only advantage they have is that once installed, the part that threads into the plastic does not have to be removed again, which will preserve the thread in the plastic. So long as the coarse thread is into the plastic far enough that it does not interfere with tightening a nut on the fine thread, I see no reason for a nut on top of the lug. From an engineering point of view it just makes it more likely that the cooler will move around. A flat washer between the nut and the lug on the cooler and a nyloc would be good. Don't overdo cranking on the nyloc though, as being a finer thread it will generate more clamping force than the coarse thread for the same tightening torque. And you don't want to strip the thread in the plastic as that would be a level 10 cursing event !!!! Cheers...

Been a while so I can't remember the exact detail of how it went, but I think it went like this... there were a couple of O-rings to be swapped over from the OEM cooler, and if so, I would have rubbed a bit of engine oil on them to stop them picking up. The spring C-clips were mounted in their "home" position on the new cooler as they work like a click-in bayonet fitting. Got the OEM hoses started on the new cooler as I pushed it up into place and put the screws in to hold it up. Then used both hands to get my thumbs behind the "flange" on the OEM hoses and pushed as hard as I could until the I heard one side of the C-clip fall into the groove. Then push-pulled until the other side of the clip clicked. I do remember that it was a bit of a tussle to get the clips engaged. I may have removed the cooler fixing screw from the end I was working on to let me push the cooler a bit closer to the hose, but I can't be sure of that. It was just the last couple of mm that was a problem and I reached about level 8 on the curse-o-meter Cheers...

In the eternal competition to find the best mural / graffiti to backdrop your car pic... this guy found the best mural and took the best shot In New Plymouth apparently, and kudos to the artist for making such a great job... that's serious talent right there 👍 Cheers...

Thanks... good call. I don't facebook since they cancelled my account, but I can use the wife's account in an emergency Cheers...

Ahhh.... I see. Movie and TV series references are liable to different interpretations if the reader has not seen or followed the original from which the quote is drawn. No problem. I prefer quotes from noteworthy individuals who have put their words of wisdom down in writing. Here is one that caught my eye a few days ago... "Our inventions are wont to be pretty toys, which distract our attention from serious things. They are but improved means to an unimproved end." Henry David Thoreau (1817-1862) This is as true today as it was on the day it was written. The world needs more clear thinkers like Thoreau, but what we get is a bunch of leaders whose mantra is clearly drawn from the words of W C Fields... If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshit !!! Cheers...

You do realise that in the years after WWII all the cheap sh*t came from Japan ?? But as their economy improved the quality improved until many Japanese products were considered to be cutting edge. The Chinese are well capable of producing premium products and when the world starts asking them "can you make me a better quality product ?" instead of "Can you make it cheaper ?" they will respond. It will happen but it will not happen overnight And don't overlook the fact that many well known Japanese companies outsource manufacturing to China. Cheers...

In an open society healthy debate should be welcomed and encouraged. No-one should be punished for holding and expressing an opinion even if it contrary to the popular opinion of the day. Two of the the greatest problems we have in the world today are popular opinion being manipulated by slanted media reporting, and the widespread practice of using personal attacks to try and discredit those who hold opposing opinions. A recent ex president comes to mind as being a leading exponent of this particular technique. Oh yeah... and cars are interesting too Cheers...

BUMP... still after one of these if anyone is breaking an e90, e92 or e93. Cheers...