jon dee

The internet suggests that there was such a thing as an "anti-scuttle shake" battery. It was specified for convertibles that, because of their reduced torsional rigidity due to the lack of a roof, were susceptible to scuttle shake. I would guess that this would really only be a problem in convertibles that had the battery mounted in the engine compartment close to the firewall. The internet also says that there was at one stage a special "wobbly" battery mounting bracket using rubber anti-vibration mounts that was used to reduce the damaging effects of vibration on the battery. NB: I didn't make this sh*t up... blame the internet Legend has it that the anti-scuttle shake battery had a more robust internal construction than standard batteries to enable it to withstand higher levels of vibration. However, common sense seems to indicate that if the battery is mounted in the trunk it is unlikely to be affected by scuttle shake, and therefore a standard battery of your choice mounted with factory hardware should be fine (if your battery is mounted in the trunk). If it is mounted in the engine compartment you are on your own Cheers...

Whoa.... didn't notice that 😐 But doesn't matter... maybe there is someone else out there that is trying to quit and needs a little encouragement Words of advice from someone who has been there are never totally wasted... just listen to what William s Burroughs has to say... Cheers...

You are heading into the danger zone... four weeks is about the time you start thinking "I've broken the habit now, so one smoke for old times sake won't do any harm" Be extra careful... make a lifestyle change such as joining a gym or at least start a regular exercise course at home if covid rules out going to the gym. Eat healthy and keep a jar of something tasty like salted peanuts handy for those moments when you need to put something in your mouth. Break the associations like lighting a smoke when you answer the phone or when you open a beer. For a while stay away from friends who smoke and always offer you one... especially hard to resist if you are having a few drinks. Ask me how I learned that one Despite what others might say, you are an addict, and although you are clean at the moment, it only takes one slip and the habit comes back. Kia kaha... you can do it !!!! Cheers...

When I ran my car (not a BM and N.A.) on a Dynapack I got a similar series of humps/dips in the torque curve. This seems to be a quirk of the hub dyno. It does not have the huge inertia of a steel roller to smooth out fluctuations in torque, so you are seeing how the torque actually fluctuates due to intake and exhaust resonances. Not saying you didn't have belt slip, but seeing as the power required by the blower increases with boost/rpm, I would expect slip to commence and increase as the engine starts to rip at the top end rather than be coming and going across the rev range. Cheers...

Amazing how one polite and reasonable reply can take the fire out of an angry mob Thank you Keith Caldwell for taking the time to respond 👍 Cheers...

This... ^^^^. FCP and FEDEX is faster and cheaper than NZ Post Shop, and to date I have never been charged GST when using FEDEX. And FCP shipping charges are way less than any other us parts company = WIN

I heard that you guys like this kind of stuff.... Brake test dummy.mp4

I think that the fundamental problem here is that dumbass entertainment is being presented as some kind of "scientific" investigation.... kind of like a retards version of Mythbusters. However, the presenters do not appear to have even a rudimentary understanding of basic engineering principles or physics. You don't have to be a rocket surgeon to understand that five flywheels will have five times the moment of inertia of one flywheel, or that tires filled with concrete (actually a weak sand/cement mix) is anything other that a totally dumb idea. Now, I like weapons of mass destruction as much as the next guy, so why not get those five flywheels up to 8000 rpm and then turn them loose ? That would demonstrate the massive amount of energy stored in a flywheel and wreak havoc in their workshop I'd call that a win - win situation, and everyone would learn something Cheers...

I think everyone does some dumb sh*t when they are young... for sure I did That is different from making a video of someone purposely doing dumb sh*t and posting it on youtube for internet points. Not saying I don't get a laugh out of the wannabe parkour heroes landing on their heads, or guys drifting their cars into kerbs. Doing dumb things by accident is fair enough but doing them on purpose is a whole different kettle of worms. Kind of reverse evolution. Cheers...

F**king idiots doing dangerous dumbass sh*t for internet points. I was disappointed that a big chunk didn't fly out of that rotor and punch a hole in their car. Rates right up there with the clowns that drain the oil out of an engine and put a brick on the gas pedal to see how long it takes to blow up. Gratuitous crap that proves nothing except that youtube is the vehicle of choice for the true bottom feeders of society. Nothing like a good rant to end the day Cheers...

Nah... wind noise is what ruins most in car videos... especially when the driver is trying to tell you how great this or that car happens to be. I was only curious to hear what the downshifts sounded like. If you have a spare Gopro stick it in the engine compartment for an experiment... that should be interesting Cheers...

Sounds solid and shifts nice So pardon my ignorance, but I don't hear any throttle blip on downshifts. Does that mean the car is running in full auto mode or are you using the paddles for shifting ? Maybe if the car is stock the engine noise is just too well muffled for the mike to pick up down shifts ? I never raced at Ruapuna but I spent a lot of weekends watching the racing there when I lived in Chch. Cheers...

Looking at the basic engine airflow, if all is well it should be impossible to get that much pressure in the intercooler. But there is one possibility that I can think of based on my experience with N.A. petrol engines, and zero experience with diesels If it is a manual and you are slow to disengage the clutch when coming to a stop, you can get the situation where the engine gets pulled down to a very low rpm. If a firing stroke occurs just at the point of stalling, combustion can take place before the engine reaches TDC and without enough momentum to carry the piston past TDC the engine kicks backwards. This is usually accompanied by a decent backfire or cough out the intake as the intake valve is now an exhaust valve !!! Just a thought. Cheers...

If the metal is stretched and/or the paint is cracked, then it can't be fixed by the Paintless Dent Removal method. If the crease line itself is still OK you could get away with filling the dent and re-painting the door. Tough break... Cheers...

What kind of image are you posting ? My PC doesn't speak the language... all I see is a little round symbol with a white bar in the centre Cheers...

Yup... that was plan A and I have an adapter to fit between the housing and the pressure switch. If that bolt had been a pressure tapping it would have been a cleaner option for running a hose from there to a sensor mounted remotely on the inner guard. Non-urgent project for later. External PCV and catchcan is next up Cheers...

Absolutely correct... top marks that man In fact I now see that had I scrolled down one more pic on the Pelican Parts DIY oil filter housing DIY, I would have seen this pic pointing out the bolts that hold the housing on. Good example of tunnel vision when looking for something.... but in my defense, it did look like it went into the oil gallery for the oil pressure switch. Oh well, back to the drawing board... Cheers...

Anyone know what the bolt circled in the attached pic (thoughtfully provided by Pelican Parts) is actually for ? Is it just a plug for an unused tapping into the oil circuit (which is what it looks like) ? And if it is, has anyone used it for fitting an oil pressure sensor ? If possible, I prefer not to disturb a bone dry plug to check Cheers...

I'm not overly confident in the cornering stability of these small but quite tall cars. Personally I think that lowering the CofG is a better way to go....

In for the sweep So here's my guess. That looks like a more determined version of the rubber bung beside it... so most likely way to get the arm off the ball is to just give it a mighty heave. Second and less likely option would be to push two of the lugs on the outer ring (assuming plastic) in towards the ball and see if it (the outer shall of the bushing) can be pushed/rotated downwards to allow it to be pushed down out of the arm leaving the bushing itself on the ball. Cheers...

Finally got around to implementing boost by gear... went with 8psi in 1st and 13psi in 2nd as a first approximation. That has eliminated the annoying hard hit in 1st that was immediately followed by DTC taking the power off when hooking out of a side street into a gap in a stream of traffic. Made me think I was driving like I should have an "L-plate" on the car Now it just hooks up and goes without any DTC intervention... self respect is restored So thanks for the heads up Herb. Cheers...

Just to tell how this battery drama of mine ended up. I tried for several hours to get my tired and near useless laptop to connect to the car using the INPA software, and failed. I think it was because INPA was looking for COM port1 and the D-CAN cable was determined to stay on port 2. I couldn't get the laptop to disclose where to go to change the COM port and in the end I gave up... but not before looking at the INPA software and the procedures necessary to change the battery type and/oy rating. Phuc me !!! I don't think I have ever used such a non-intuitive, arcane and laborious method of doing anything on a computer It felt like I was working with the gun laying computer on the Tirpitz. I am by no means a computer geek but I can usually struggle my way through most of the software I need to use... but INPA is pure no-man's land for me. And that only gets you halfway... to register the battery you have to go into another program that looks to have about the same level of ease of use difficulty. So I flagged all that nonsense and installed Bimmercode on my phone. That hooked up straight away via a wireless adapter and set the battery details in 2 minutes flat Then I used MHD with the D-CAN cable to register the battery. So nothing wrong with the cable. I know that the ancient BMW software can probably explore the entrails of my DME in more detail than I will ever need, but I don't care. What I have can provide all the detail I will ever need for reading codes and doing basic resets... and it does it easily with a simple menu driven interface. Plus I can log parameters, calculate performance/power, display gauges and code many features on the DME. No offense to you F10er as you have obviously mastered the black arts of BMW software. Maybe if the laptop I was using wasn't quite so old (born and raised on XP) I might have been able to achieve a better result for my efforts. !!! Cheers...

Somewhere in Chile in 2008...