rusteee

Sooooo..... any hints what you ended up with??

Hmmm, I know once the torque converter begins to fail (very common in these) they tend to make an awful grind/high pitched whine which you can hear in the cabin, and usually gets worse with revs. This is what took my first gearbox. In saying that, you should in theory hear it in drive as well if this were the case. Would definitely pay to get a professional opinion in case its a nice minor issue, as from experience, these boxes can go down hill pretty fast. (I'm assuming you are talking about the 540i)

Nice!! This has the smoothest non rattliest M62tu I've heard hahaha, was buzzing when you took off from the last meet. Cars looking good mate

Could be a few things. When you say grinding, does it have quite a large thump when you engage rev or park?. Best to get it checked though as these gearboxes are a PITA!! ask me how I know haha.

Well done man!! What an awsome project meticulously done. Keen to see it at the next meet

Geez i wouldn't touch that with a barge pole! Def go for the mint condition key though

Nice car man, love the wheels!!

What part of Huntly was that? Hakarimata is pretty nice place to be if your your looking Huntly, its still Huntly, but not haha. Even In Te Kauwhata houses are selling for ridiculous prices and getting snapped up pretty quick. Not toooo far to commute to Auckland if you dont mind early starts, seems more and more poeple are moving down

New owner huh?? =p whens that coming up?

Yea the converter shudder is bad at low speed and taking off, but definety a different sort from the driving shudder. The gearbox certainly takes the enjoyment out of the car. Had full reconditoned gearbox and torque coverter, its on its 4th torque converter, this is the second rebuilt unit to fail, hopefully there is no hassle with the warrenty.

Cheers! I was trying to find somewhere that had one, didn't realise they did. Will give them a all tommorrow. Am having torque converter issues again causing a decent shudder as well but pretty sure that wouldn't transfer to the wheel.

What a beautiful machine!! Just a slight upgrade =p haha. Well done man looks awsome

Cheers man could be keen, after a set just as a trial need to be genuine and have tread (hopefully balanced)

Hi guys May be a long shot, but wondering if anyone has a set (or just fronts) of Genuine BMW wheels kicking around to suit E39 540, that they would be willing to let me borrow for a short while to eliminate whether it is my rims causing the godforsaken vibration on this thing. I have an aftermarket set of M6 reps and after spending a small fortune trying to have the problem solved, this is the only thing I can think of left, perhaps out of round or buckled? Payment of beers (or cash). Any help appreciated

Wonder if it will be like the Taniwha, pay it $1,000,000,000 and it will magically disappear?? Well, until a new road needs to go in or upgrade the infrastructure of the existing where it lives, then it comes back with a higher 'disappearance' price tag attached. If I remember rightly, it was thrown out very early but they were even trying to go for the new 4G passing through the airways

Nice car man!! Love these

No worries, but as Allan said, make sure it is some sort of mastic/butyl type sealant that doesn't cure so it can be removed in the future if needed.

Do you mean when you open the doors, a puddle of water gushes out? If so its most likely the vapour barriers, the seal may have come off, or have been removed in the past and not stuck back down properly. I had that problem on all 4 doors of my 530, one having been cut with a stanley knife by some rough bugger doing some work on the door. Bit of black mastic sealant to stick it back down fixed the problem.

So much want!! Is it a convert or original manual?

Thanks Glenn! Managed to pop it off this morning using that method. Came off like gun shot, then i've pressed the steel sleeve back up the few mm's it came out of the housing and have fitted the new thrust arm. Yet to load it up and torque the bolt on the bush up to spec, but happy to have that done as was holding up the whole job. Appreciate the help

Its goes both ways, I've put it around the other way as learnt pretty quick that how it is in the pic wasn't going to work. Not too sure but I think the 6 cyl has a bit more room to play with? Basically left it sitting cranked up in the hope that it would eventually press out, but no such luck. Will give it another crack tommorow

Thanks for that Glenn, appreciate it. Yeah I have complete thrust arms as the boot on the ball joint were already split. Will give that a shot tomorrow

Oh right, it does look pretty square once its on tight enough to start pushing down on the bolt, but I suppose not seeing as this stubborn joint isn't coming off. Bugger is, its worked well for the tie rods, centre drag link, rear control arms and front passengers thrust arm, just this drivers side almost feels like its loctite in there. Don't suppose there is anything else I can try?

Cheers Glenn. Sorry my phone is crap in the dark will try take pic tommorow. But its exactly like this one in the pic attatched. I have the wheel turned so the tool slots in nicely above the arm, and now far enough so the fork will support that steel sleeve (mistake on my part). The top has a firm flat seat on top of the ball joint bolt, then tighten the nut/bolt to press the bolt out.... supposedly. Is this not the right tool for the job?

Well thats all fine, but I was after advise. I am very aware of what damage can occur from hitting it with a hammer, which is exactly why I didn't just go hitting things in there willy nilly. I was trying to 'shock' the metal with a short sharp hit. I have the proper tool that was BMW specified for the job that is made to press the spiggot out, like an adjustable 'H' type clamp arrangment. It seems comletely seized. Every other ball joint has come off without a hitch.