Cement

Got the new tyres ahead of the wheels which are still looking like September. They sure look big when not on the car !! 235 and 255 PS5's.

PCB's arrived ... really impressed with the overall experience with JLCPCB !! Waiting on the remainder of the components from RS so i can assemble a board and test everything out. I'm expecting some minor fitment issues which may need a rev 2 but we shall see.

Forgot to add I found the very start of some rust in the left A pillar. Only piece of rust I've seen in the whole car !! Was essentially just a paint bubble and I assume an imperfection in the e-coat which allowed the start of it. Got onto it with a little wire wheel, rust converted it then added epoxy primer and some colour matched blue over the top. Glass back in !!! The tint looks awesome and will be sweet once it's done all over. Will get to finishing the roof sanding and polishing tonight Then tomorrow ... wash the dusty thing !!!

Got the roof lining back in while the rear glass is out, very easy to slide it in the big hole rather than taking the seats etc out Turns out the new B pillar covers I got (and have recovered) are slightly different to the ones that came out, they did work but were slightly shorter and the belt adjustment is a bit tight 😕 Might get the ones that came out re-covered at some point but can't be faffed for now. Have run cables for the dashcam I am installing along the way (Viofo A139 Pro) so it will be a high quality install with the permanent power wiring for parking mode etc. Also got the rear glass tinted (Xpel 35%) while it was out and will take the car in for the rest of the job once mobile again. Mostly this is because I have no A/C after the engine swap so will be great to keep the heat down a bit !!

We're almost there folks ... second cert inspection done and the glass is going back in today. Have re-sanded and polished the front and back where the new window moldings will go also. Hopefully tonight will complete the sanding polishing of the rest of the roof then can put the rest of it back together 👍

Took the E46 out for a spin yesterday with no front or rear screens, nothing like the wind in your hair 😆 Also got a set of Michelin PS 5's ahead of new wheels arriving in September, now I just get to look at them stacked in a neat pile and wait.

All good for sure, I just read it as helpful advise 👍 I'm just going to split the difference and use a set value for all then can adjust from there if things look weird ... just ordered everything I need from RS (including new LED's so can try to not reuse) and will get the boards ordered this week.

Ya I think so, using EasyEDA which I believe is owned by or otherwise tight with them and it's cheap cheap plus good turn around it would seem !! Not quite sure if I am ready to hit the go button just yet but for the price i think I should just to learn whats wrong and how they come out. Powered up the board today and all the LED's look to be the same brightness, to the eye at least. Have got another thread going with the electronic folks to see if there are some other ideas. https://www.electro-tech-online.com/threads/circuit-reverse-engineering-different-led-resistor-values.165113/ Looks good in a picture now at least which is encouraging 👍

Have started on designing the PCB for the cruise control side and its looking ok ... I think I'm in a good place for the actual controls, and have just got to add he little LEDs for the illumination now. Took some good photos of the existing board and have marked out the circuits that are used for the lights. Will just research why they have different resistor values for each LED ... I'm sure there is a good reason for it. Will add the LED's and resistors to the circuit tonight and then i can refine things a bit, 3D print the board to test fit and at some point actually order the PCB(s) !!

Damn you put a hex on me there Yep i setup the IR receiver on a breadboard and captured the signals off the remote but have yet to try and play back or otherwise deal with the captured data. Interestingly the captured hex for the items which are already working did not match so either I'm not getting it or there are multiple commands (generations ?) for the same thing. What I captured for the phone function I need to implement was: #################################### Basic Dump ######################################### Protocol=NEC Address=0x7286 Command=0x56 Raw-Data=0xA9567286 32 bits LSB first Send with: IrSender.sendNEC(0x7286, 0x56, <numberOfRepeats>); #################################### Full Dump ######################################### Protocol=NEC Address=0x7286 Command=0x56 Raw-Data=0xA9567286 32 bits LSB first Send with: IrSender.sendNEC(0x7286, 0x56, <numberOfRepeats>); Raw result in internal ticks (50 us) - with leading gap rawData[68]: -65535 +180,-87 +13,- 9 +13,-32 +13,-32 +12,- 9 +13,-10 +12,-10 +12,-11 +12,-32 +12,-10 +12,-33 +12,-10 +12,-10 +12,-33 +12,-32 +12,-32 +13,- 9 +13,-10 +12,-33 +12,-32 +12,-10 +12,-32 +13,- 9 +13,-32 +12,-10 +13,-32 +12,-10 +12,-10 +13,-32 +12,-10 +12,-32 +13,-10 +13,-31 +13 Sum: 1325 Raw result in microseconds - with leading gap rawData[68]: -3276750 +9000,-4350 + 650,- 450 + 650,-1600 + 650,-1600 + 600,- 450 + 650,- 500 + 600,- 500 + 600,- 550 + 600,-1600 + 600,- 500 + 600,-1650 + 600,- 500 + 600,- 500 + 600,-1650 + 600,-1600 + 600,-1600 + 650,- 450 + 650,- 500 + 600,-1650 + 600,-1600 + 600,- 500 + 600,-1600 + 650,- 450 + 650,-1600 + 600,- 500 + 650,-1600 + 600,- 500 + 600,- 500 + 650,-1600 + 600,- 500 + 600,-1600 + 650,- 500 + 650,-1550 + 650 Sum: 66250 Result as internal 8bit ticks (50 us) array - compensated with MARK_EXCESS_MICROS=20 uint8_t rawTicks[67] = {180,87, 13,9, 13,32, 13,32, 12,9, 13,10, 12,10, 12,11, 12,32, 12,10, 12,33, 12,10, 12,10, 12,33, 12,32, 12,32, 13,9, 13,10, 12,33, 12,32, 12,10, 12,32, 13,9, 13,32, 12,10, 13,32, 12,10, 12,10, 13,32, 12,10, 12,32, 13,10, 13,31, 13}; // Protocol=NEC Address=0x7286 Command=0x56 Raw-Data=0xA9567286 32 bits LSB first Result as microseconds array - compensated with MARK_EXCESS_MICROS=20 uint16_t rawData[67] = {8980,4370, 630,470, 630,1620, 630,1620, 580,470, 630,520, 580,520, 580,570, 580,1620, 580,520, 580,1670, 580,520, 580,520, 580,1670, 580,1620, 580,1620, 630,470, 630,520, 580,1670, 580,1620, 580,520, 580,1620, 630,470, 630,1620, 580,520, 630,1620, 580,520, 580,520, 630,1620, 580,520, 580,1620, 630,520, 630,1570, 630}; // Protocol=NEC Address=0x7286 Command=0x56 Raw-Data=0xA9567286 32 bits LSB first uint16_t address = 0x7286; uint16_t command = 0x56; uint32_t rawData = 0xA9567286; Pronto Hex as string char prontoData[] = "0000 006D 0022 0000 015B 00A7 001A 0011 001A 003D 001A 003D 0018 0011 001A 0012 0018 0012 0018 0014 0018 003D 0018 0012 0018 003F 0018 0012 0018 0012 0018 003F 0018 003D 0018 003D 001A 0011 001A 0012 0018 003F 0018 003D 0018 0012 0018 003D 001A 0011 001A 003D 0018 0012 001A 003D 0018 0012 0018 0012 001A 003D 0018 0012 0018 003D 001A 0012 001A 003B 001A 06C3 ";

It's real alright This is the display here: https://www.waveshare.com/product/raspberry-pi/displays/7.9inch-hdmi-lcd.htm You can see it in action here although looks average in video, it's very crisp and the colour is great ... will change the gauges to an amber theme soon to fit in better with the rest of the car. https://youtu.be/l5xILC-A0a4?t=32

Got the seam sealer in and I await the certifier to come and take a look again before i can start to put things back together. Will be installing wiring before the head liner goes in for a dash cam also.

Have been spending far too much time tooling around under the dash getting the Arduino and associated wiring sorted. Ended up making a few simple mistakes (soldering to the wrong pin, forgetting the ground pin on the radio PCB causing me to remake the resistor 5V feed wiring etc) and chasing my tail for a while but got there in the end. I've just got to work out one hex code so i can start / end phone calls else everything is working nicely. Terrible picture below of the Arduino and power converter on a little 3D printed bracket. The wiring within the wheel which I've buggered around with to give me all I need for the radio controls as well as the cruise control module which is still a work in progress.

I try to teach my kids about road safety when out on bikes but keep striking drivers who think they're doing you a favour by ignoring the rules and just sit there waiting for you to ignore that give way or stop sign you're waiting at and move on out. I just have to vigorously wave them on and explain to the kids some people can't follow the rules 🙄

So much work going into this !!! Respect.

Thanks, it's certainly at that point where I want it to be done and back together now !! For sure just sing out 👍 Any dual 300ml cartridges should work fine in it 👍

Finally the lid is back on the can !!! The Mad Max dual cartridge gun worked well but you'd be well served to be on a program of 'roids for a few weeks preceding to get the most out of it 😆 Taped all of the under sides to prevent any excess adhesive from dropping onto the seats etc All clamped down to cure. The sides were a good fit along the car body so didn't need to clamp them down. Tomorrow will get the clamps off and pop some seam sealer along over the top of the joints. Will be ready then for the second certification inspection which is holding up putting the head liner in, so i can get the B pillar's in, so i can get the rear door cards in, so i can get the back seat in etc etc

Finally got the rear speakers and parcel tray installed. Changed it from black to charcoal using the same Duplicolor Vinyl & Fabric as it's a better match for the re-trimmed A/B/C pillars. Looks worse in the picture than in the flesh but definitely has a coarse texture. The speakers fit snugly in the factory plastic baskets and I've secured them with some little printed plastic fittings. The covers go on and all looks OEM.

Getting the permanent solution wired up using an Arduino Nano. The other piece is a 'buck' DC-DC converter to give the Arduino a regulated 10V and protect it from the noise of the car wiring. The 1.5kohm resistors are inside the heat shrink. Have got a cable spliced into pin 27 on the lighting control module which will power this as well as provide the power for the lights in the button panels via a pin in the clock / volute spring.

Nice one and welcome ! There is a wealth of knowledge in the forum content and members to help you out 👍

If anybody needs it, this is the tyre bays email: [email protected] Got a price on some PS5's as below, fitted and balanced: 235/40/18 $319 255/35/18 $423

Got the PoC running nicely and have validated it against the head unit now Next up I will take a look at the cruise control side again and work out the wiring setup + where I will stash the Arduino to deal with the radio controls.

So a little bit of a change in plans based on some tooling around with the volt meter in the car. The radio controls circuit is fed 5V from the cruise control side and as mentioned is already a resistance ladder style ... so that makes it perfect out of the box for directly interfacing with the Arduino !! Score Got some help from a friendly person on an electronics forum (https://www.electro-tech-online.com/threads/simple-circuit-reverse-engineering-steering-wheel-radio-controls.165060/) and can now measure all of the button presses on the Arduino with some basic code. Will be parking my code here if anybody is interested: https://github.com/david-morton/E46-SteeringWheel-Controls/tree/main This is the setup as it stands: Next up will be: Add more code to actually detect the respective button presses Wire in the head unit to this PoC setup Test the internet sourced codes over the wire and see if the head unit does stuff (thanks @Karter16) Work out how I can get everything done with 5 cables total into the wheel via the clock spring taking into account what the cruise control side will need. May try and stash a super small micro controller within the wheel itself ... not sure yet This is the PoC circuit as it stands:

Love to see the DIY solutions !! Great concept you put together there @Karter16 👍 I got my creation complete today, just need to buy some dowel in case I need to get more travel out of mine after the gooping starts.

I copied this from a mailer a few months back ... seems like reasonable value to me and was going to check it out when the time comes.