elias

no, would highly recommend, very fun car

Awesome car mate, looks fantastic with the black and white, although I may be slightly biased, good to hear the positive experience with the rt615k+ tires, will give them a go on my 135i, should fit fine on 18x8 et38 I think.

any info on the exhaust?

have been looking into this as well for my 135i, depends on if you have a manual or automatic car, automatic is easier as it is a bolted ring gear, so it is easier to swap over. seems there are a few different options speed science will sell you the LSD core for about $2200ish and then you can either install it yourself or pay someone to fit it can buy the LSD core directly from Mfactory, works out slightly cheaper especially if you can find way to avoid import duty then it will be fair bit cheaper than speed science. Kayne barrie can do the whole thing for you for about 3k. speedfactor in Tauranga can sell you a Ruff branded LSD core for $1800ish, and you can install it yourself or possibly send them your pumpkin and get them to fit it for you at an extra cost im tempted to just order one direct from Mfactory, they seem to have decent warranty and people have had good experiences with them, install doesn't look too complicated with the right tools, just have to check backlash with a dial gauge and it should be good.

what exhaust is that?

Made a bit more progress, been very busy with uni assignments recently, redid a part of the exhaust, my welding isn't particularly good, and this thin walled steel with flux core isn't the nicest thing to weld either, but looks a bit better than before, painted it so it doesn't rust as quickly. Also decided to take matters into my own hands and bought a guard rolling tool, will give the rear guards a go tomorrow and see how flat I can get them, and then maybe bit more negative camber when I go for a wheel alignment after adjusting ride heights and they 245s may just fit. Also acquired a pair of 235/40/18 fallen rt615k+ tires for the front, the 245s maybe be a bit too hard to make work on the front, don't want them to rub in corners. Will take a fair bit of rolling to work...

had a look at fop euro but its over $1000usd by the time you include the core charge and the shipping and import tax on top of that dont have the money for that atm, although probably worth it with the lifetime warranty, the one from the wrecker is working great and gave me a 3month warranty which is better than nothing I guess... too many things to do on these cars, time to buy a guard roller next

such a nice spec on this car, looks really good

Right fair enough I appreciate the reply, yeah dont want ripply guards but definitely need some more room, might just give it a go and see how far I can roll them without it being noticeable from the outside, and then if need be I can always go down a tire size and it should be ok. Ive got a heatgun, ill see if anyone has a guard roller I can borrow, otherwise ill buy one. Ideally id buy wheels that fit perfectly too, but a square setup with 245 tires on a 135i is quite hard to find, especially with aftermarket suspension, at the current offset I just clear the strut by a couple of millimetres so any more offset wouldn't work.

Hello, Anyone on here ever rolled guards on a e82? Need to make more room in the back guards, ideally roll the lip completely flat, parallel to the guard. Ive been to a few places, auto stance, MTS etc and none of them really want to do it. Was thinking of doing it myself but thought id ask if anyone had any experience with it first? Any advice appreciated, cheers

Finally got around to changing out the front coilover springs for some 7.5kg springs, previous ones were 12kg, far too stiff for anything other than extremely smooth surfaces. Put some helper springs in too to get correct preload. Much smoother ride now with better front and rear spring rates, still need to dial in ride heights etc but a very nice setup now, stiff but not excessively harsh. Next up guard roll, if anyone on here in auckland has a guard roller I could borrow for a box of beers or some cash that would be much appreciated, can't seem to find a decent shop to do it, auto stance said nah can't do much without even taking a glance at the car...

Hi sorry man, just saw this now, appreciate the offer though, just replaced mine with one out of an early n55 from a wrecker, cost me $440. Car runs great now though! On another note, anyone in auckland got a guard roller? And possibly be willing to lend a hand with rolling the rear guards on my 1 series coupe? Happy to supply beer/cash for your efforts, cheers

No worries, nothing quite as annoying as looking through old forum posts that describe the same issue and never seeing what the solution was. Yeah hopefully it'll be ok for a while, until I decide to bolt bigger turbos onto it at some point haha

all sorted now, fuel pump failed completely on my way to a workshop, rail pressure dropped below 100psi and didn't recover. Replaced HPFP and no issues now, data logs must have looked odd because the pump hadn't failed entirely and the low pressure side was trying to compensate. Appreciate the help with this issue cheers

Tried swapping coils and plugs from bank 1 to bank 2, but to no avail, still misfiring, eventually got code 29DC injector cutout so doesn't seem to be cylinder specific. Suspect fuel pressure issue. Looking through the MHD data logs of the misfire, the fuel low pressure sensor reading drops before the rail pressure crashes which led me to believe that the LPFP was failing. Bought a replacement (low km OEM from a fellow enthusiast) swapped it in which was a rather interesting procedure as my tank was full, so had to siphon it out first and ended up breathing in petrol for a god hour or so as some of the plugs/clips on the pump were very stubborn. Eventually got it all pieced back together but issue still persisted. Decided that maybe I need a workshop with ISTA to have a look at doing a test on the HPFP, in the meantime I replaced some vacuum lines, didn't do the wastgate ones as they are almost impossible to reach, seems like you would need to remove the heat shield but the back most bolt is blocked by the steering column... On my way to Michael at Euromotive workshop to try and help diagnose the misfire/injector cutout issue, it became quite evident what the issue is. I had MHD data log going while driving to keep an eye on things and try avoid any damage to the engine, going up the harbour bridge (very gently so it doesn't misfire) rail pressure dropped lower and lower eventually sub 100psi and the car went into limp mode, and just ran the rail pressure off the LPFP, so about 80psi. This time low pressure sensor readings remained unaffected so it was evident the HPFP was at fault. Got to the shop, scanned codes and it confirmed HPFP as the issue. Managed to find one out of a n55 5 series (newer version of HPFP) at a wrecker for fairly cheap compared to new prices so installed that and car drives well now, rail pressure responds much faster to throttle input than it ever has. Still need to roll my guards and put the proper wheels on... but at least the car runs properly again, quick drive down one of my favourite roads in the area.

yeah there is a proper tool for it, but hammer and flat head did the trick, fuel pump swapped out but didn't fix the problem unfortunately

ok sweet I mean it makes sense, being one of the most common parts on these cars to fail an I think im still on my original one at 132,000kms. Will try see if I can maybe get access to ISTA seems like a useful tool to have!

replaced the LPFP with a known good low km oem one, still same issue, fuel pressure (both rail pressure and low pressure sensor reading) drops under load and car loses power and stumbles/misfires. Would failing HPFP cause the low pressure reading to fluctuate? or is it more likely a bad low pressure sensor or EKP? new log after new LPFP, seems like low pressure drops before rail pressure so not sure its the HPFP's fault https://datazap.me/u/hlf529/still-sh*t?log=0&data=10-19-24

Anyone got a fuel pump lock ring tool? Need to change the LPFP on my e82, closer to auckland the better cheers

Thanks for the link, good read, lots of good information in there. Had a look around the HPFP, all the connections look good, no loose plugs, all the plugs on the junction box under the intake manifold look good too, no damaged wires etc. So seems like it could be HPFP itself

right I see that makes a lot of sense, time to start looking for a high pressure fuel pump then. Only reason I though it was the low pressure pump was because the low pressure sensor reading dropped quite low which Im not sure why it would do that. Either way, I shall look for a high pressure fuel pump, I paid $60 for a known good OEM LPFP, thought it would be a cheap way of making sure im not spending money on a HPFP when it might not be necessary but I see what you're saying and agree it is rather likely to be a HPFP issue, really appreciate the help with this!

appreciate the help! So looks like either HPFP or LPFP or both are the culprit, got a second hand LPFP that I picked up for a great price coming now to eliminate that issue before o drop $$ on HPFP, will see how it goes cheers

right that makes sense, now my issue is finding the cause, LPFP, HPFP, low pressure sensor? I might be wrong but I believe the HPFP is fine, before the Low pressure sensor reading drops, the HPFP builds nice up to 1400psi with no issues, then Low pressure drops down, and the rail pressure follows, dropping really low. Looks like LPFP to me but keen to get some other opinions before I buy one

Hello, I am having a bit of trouble with my car atm, its a FBO n54 135i on MHD stage 2+. Took it for a good drive the other day, giving it some abuse on some windy roads, with a lot of traction control stepping in as rear tires are pretty bad. After the twisty road, I go up a hill to pass someone (in a passing lane) and car starts shaking, at first I though it was traction control again because I accelerated quite quick but it shook more and more and the check engine light started flashing, so I pulled over, turned car off, scanned the codes and got: 29CC DME: combustion misfires several cylinders 29CD DME: combustion misfires cylinder 1 29CE DME: combustion misfires cylinder 2 29CF DME: combustion misfires cylinder 3 I cleared the code, car ran fine at idle, and gently drove it home, ran relatively smooth no real issues, when I did try a bit of acceleration it got rough so I stopped before it misfired too bad. Got home, swapped coils and plugs from bank 1 to bank 2 and took it for test drive, all good at low rpm (waiting for engine to warm up) did one small pull as soon as it hit a bit of boost breaks up again and misfires really violently. Pulled over scanned codes again: 29DC Injector cutout Cleared code, started car and gave it one more small acceleration while doing MHD data log (stopped acceleration before it misfired bad enough to go into limp mode) which showed the following: https://datazap.me/u/hlf529/injector-cutout?log=0&data=3-22 To me it looks like a fuel issue, rail pressure drops far too low and low pressure sensor fluctuates a lot, im leaning towards being a low pressure fuel pump issue but want to be sure before I buy one and replace it. Note: Coil packs/ plugs are all only a few months old (Delphi coils/ngk one step colder plugs) Any idea/help/advice would be much appreciated

saw your car at the meet today, looked great! lots of cool cars out, I was one of the 135is, was going great until bank 1 decided to misfire