elias

Anyone selling a good condition HANS device before i buy new? Cheers

would second this, extremely expensive (got to pay for that fancy waiting room somehow) but if insurance is paying id be going there

This is my hope too, really only after a n55 m2, preferably LCI, so definitely one o the less desirable ones compared to a comp, but might just wait another year till they come down to the low 40s more consistently and maybe find a cheap one for high 30s. Until then I guess ill keep my 135i unless something interesting comes up.

yeah i get what you are saying, maybe being a bit optimistic. Not necessarily after a crashed one, but something with issues, for two reasons, because cheaper, and because i enjoy working on cars, want something that i can work on and build into my own, hence id rather start with something a little rough with potential issues, oil leaks etc etc than a mint one. My current project is pretty much complete (can take a look in the projects section), that one stated out as the cheapest 135i in nz with a fair few issues and is now, in my opinion one of the most unique in nz, but not much left for me to do. I have repaired a crashed car in the past, it was crashed but uninsured, so didnt have any issues with write off etc, but had no structural damage, i repaired it and sold it for a profit (e46 330ci). I enjoyed that project a lot and it made sense as i was able to sell it for a profit. In regards to finding an m2, ideally id like an n55 one with some mechanical issues, oil leaks, valvetronic issues or similar problems and obviously at a lower price. Yes i could save up more cash and buy a tidy one but why not use mechanical skills to my advantage to get a cheaper one. But the problem is they arent yet old enough that there are many broken ones around, unlike n54 cars which are all clapped out and cheap now.

can get the mosfets replaced which is significantly cheaper than replacing the entire DME.

ah thats unfortunate, yeah its good fun trying to stay on the bike

would need to read codes, but could be DME mosfets if its MSD80. Fairly common issue.

sorry to hear about the trouble its been giving you, is that out at woodhill? Im out there fairly often riding my bike, might see you there sometime!

yeah if they are in a state where it is viable to get them back on the road then I would definitely consider that, have got a good panelbeater. Any recommendations on where to look, best to keep an eye on trademe? Cheers!

Anyone got an f87 m2 with mechanical issues or is in another other way damaged, hence cheap? Long shot I know but looking for a new project, not worried about kms, spec etc etc, just has to be an m2 and pref. not insurance write off. Update: Will also consider e92 m3s, pref. lowish kms though. Can offer swap for a modified 135i, or sell the 135 and do cash. Cheers

Got the car back from the Panelbeater this evening, looks the best it ever has. Both doors and the rear quarter resprayed. If you ever need panelbeating/paint work done in Auckland I can't recommend Neville at Bute Collision Repair Browns Bay enough, absolute legend always does an amazing job and very reasonable prices, this job was 1/5th the cost of what other places had quoted. Safe to say i wont be parking it on that Culdesac anymore.

im sure therred be a fuel pump fuse somewhere, but have never looked, easy enough to just pull the injector wires.

Took the car out for a drive and decided to take some photos last night before dropping it off to get the speed stripes fixed today.

nice! where does one find a deal like this? would love another n54 project

Priming your engine oil is only necessary if you interrupt the the oil supply circuit such as removing the oil filter housing, removing the oil cooler or oil cooler lines etc. A normal oil change wont require priming. The easiest way to prime the oil is to disconnect all 6 fuel injector's electrical connectors, then crank the engine for 10 seconds, give it 20 seconds to allow the starter motor to cool off again, then repeat 2 more times. The starter motor will turn over the engine which will run the oil pump and prime your oil. Then plug all the fuel injectors' connectors back in and start the car.

have asked, nobody has any cameras and nobody saw anything

Glad your car didnt decide to eat the belt, is a fairly common cause for engine failure. The oil causes the belt to swell, it slips off the pulley, due to the design of the crank pulley it can only slip off backwards and gets forced through the crankseal into the sump, and clogs the oil pickup causing loss of oil pressure and in many cases catastrophic failure. Can get crank seal guards to help prevent this for peace of mind, but keeping on top of gaskets and squeaky tensioners/idlers is the best method. I had my car towed home when i noticed a failed OFHG, just me being extra careful. Oil filter/oil cooler gasket isnt the most fun job, makes one hell of a mess. Make sure to prime your engine oil before you start your car to be safe as well! Have don this job a coupe times now haha

yep, not a single other car on the street has been damaged. Yeah only park it there due to ongoing house renovations which means no garage and a cross lease driveway with an unfriendly neighbour. Once fixed I will find somewhere else to keep it, had enough. I appreciate it regardless! Pretty gutted but not much I can do, I will get it repaired and learn my lesson not to park it in public places anymore.

People who key cars, just had both sides of my car keyed, wtf is wrong with you, what makes you think you have the right to f**k up other peoples property.

made my own one of these, cost me effectively $0, had some flatbar lying around and had my brother tig weld it up for me. Thanks for the inspiration, works very well!

Speaking of damage to the car, someone has decided they dont like my car very much and thought it would be a good idea to key it. Not only one side, but both. Absolutely gutted, spend so much time and money on this car just for someone to walk past and decide to f**k it up. Clearly intentional, done both sides, on of which repeatedly with some serious aggression. Occurred on the same culdesac as the previous damage to the front bumper/fender. Honestly don't know why someone would do this, they gain nothing from it. Car is going to the panelbeater on monday, not looking forward to the bill, being a fulltime student money isnt exactly something i have lots of. Spoke to all the neighbors, nobody has a camera or saw anything, and insurance is only 3rd party so will be paying for it myself. Pretty upset and not exactly very encouraging, when people continually find ways to destroy your hard work. Originally the plan was to start racing the car, but that might have to wait a bit now.

yeah i agree, definitely wouldnt want to drill any holes. I just bolted my bracket onto the end of the frame rail using the some bolts. Didnt drill a single extra hole into the car just made the brackets to suit. Can sort of see it in the photo below if you squint. Main reason for making these brackets was to try place the coolers directly behind the 1m rep bumpers air scoops, which should make the ducting simpler. Brakes look awesome!

Awesome work! Did a similar oil cooler setup on my 135i, interested to see how you do the air ducting, yet to do that for my bumper, should provide an improvement in the effectiveness of the coolers. Mounted my coolers onto the frame rail ends, and into the radiator support where the ducting used to attach. (Oem oil cooler has since been removed).

yeah I feel your pain, very frustrating. I never found out who caused the damage on my car but someone seems to have a problem, they bent the mirror forwards on my other car (e91) when it was parked there, and have snapped the mirror off my brother's vintage land cruiser 4 times, clearly more than coincidence at this point. But not much you can do.

I went through a similar process recently getting my Sparco seats certified. Impossible to find an engineers report for the parts I used so I drilled 2 holes into the transmission tunnel and used lvv doubler plates. Bit of a tedious job, but looks very tidy in the end. Only other thing I could think of is to see if maybe you could find an engineering consulting business in NZ that could take a look at the parts you are using and see if they would be willing to write a report attesting to the strength of the rails? Out of curiosity which cert guy are you going through?