elias

.Some progress, decided id waited long enough for the rain to stop, so pulled the diff out of the car, on the side of the road, in the rain. Not the most fun I've had working on my car, but managed to get it done. Some of the bolts took a while to take out, probably should have just removed the heat shield. Dropping the diff down in a controlled manner was tricky with only 2 hands, 1 of which was needed to operate the jack, slipped off the jack a bit and crushed my hand slightly but luckily it wasn't quite as heavy as I had anticipated. Diff goes to Kayne Barrie early next week to get the Mfactory LSD and new seals put in, in the meantime I will try replace the diff bushings. And then ill put it back in the car, fill it up with some fresh fluid and see how it goes. Made a tool for the two smaller diff bushings, just a pipe, some plate and a threaded rod, should do the trick, then put the new ones in the freezer and they should go in easy enough. Thinking I will probably be able to use the subframe busing tool for the large diff bushing.

This is a good way of looking at it, probably will never push the car too its absolute limit, as id prefer to keep it and myself in one piece, so a rollbar does sound like a good middle ground. The reason I was considering a full cage was mostly due to not being able to take a passenger as well as not being able to participate in certain events, however a full cage and authority card does seem excessive for the amount of times it will actually be required and for how (not) hard the car will be driven. Seems like a rollbar is a better option than I had thought... cheers

Stock muffler off my 2008 135i, sounds great on n52 cars such as 130i. Located auckland, north shore, can deliver if you pay for petrol. Bit dusty from sitting in the workshop, will give it a clean prior to sale, just seeing if there's any interest first, exhaust flap works as it should no issues, was cut off, but plenty of pipe left to weld onto. All hangers etc still there. $200 ONO

As above, looking for a aluminum n55 e chassis charge pipe, auckland area preferred, not looking to sped $500 on a new VRSF one as im going to drill/cut it up. Cheers

right I see, I thought you were able to drive a motorsport car on public roads with an authority card since it allows you to obtain a WOF, provided that all modifications meet he required standards? So a fully caged motorsport car, with an authority card cannot be used for a sunday drive on public roads? This might be the deciding factor as I definitely want to be able to drive the car on public roads on weekends, as I won't be able to take it to a track every time I want to drive it. cheers

this is a good point, I guess what I was saying was useless in the sense of what events you can participate in under msnz regulation, obviously even if not required, it doesn't hurt to have a half cage and the added safety that it provides

Didn't want to derail the other thread so thought id start this here. Am considering putting a rollbar or roll cage into my 135i over summer. Was originally planning on just putting in a basic half cage to keep things simple but be able to use harnesses and have some more safety. however upon doing some research, it seems that there is absolutely no point in a half cage (or rollbar as msnz calls them) in a closed car. If you want to take a passenger you need a roll cage, if you don't then in club sport events you don't need any form of cage or rollbar. If you want to do a rally event you need a full cage. So it seems pointless to go with a half cage/rollbar, either go full cage, bucket seats, harnesses, remove airbags etc then get a authority card or leave the car as is but maybe with some more supportive seats. Any insight, recommendations or opinions are appreciated. Cheers

cheers thank you, will take a look!

Car looks fantastic, what my 135i would love to be when it grows up haha. Curious about the half cage, have you got any photos of it? Been debating putting one into my 135i, but it seems that there is almost no point from my research as most MSNZ events that you can do with a half cage you can do without one, and ones you can't do without a cage you need a full cage for? Maybe I am wrong though, I am not sure I want to do a full cage and everything that goes with that, so any info on the half cage would be much appreciated! cheers

Hi about to try install an LSD, anyone got the 50mm spanner that you need to remove e82/e90 driveshaft? Happy to pay to borrow it/beers etc Cheers

Diff has arrived, looks great, very excited to get it installed and test it, ordered new seals which will be here this afternoon, then on to try remove the diff out of the car, need to find a thin 50mm wrench to remove the driveshaft... came with new ring gear bolts and some haribos, can't complain

got a photo of the wheel, which style are they?

Thank you! Yeah finally getting closer to a point where im happy with it, but still got a lot planned, most importantly The LSD which has now been stuck in customs for almost 10 days...

Oh true yeah security wasn't stoked on the meet haha, glad you're enjoying the tread , definitely have a chat at the next one man.

At the Westgate meet? Cheers man appreciate it, been a long process

Some photos of how the car looks now

Diff is stuck in customs as expected, filled out the paperwork for the code that you need this morning so hoping to have it in a week or so. Got my wheels back from vapour blasting , decided to leave the raw vapour blasted aluminium for now, will probably have them gone over again in a year or so when they start to show corrosion and then either get them painted or clear coated. The current finish is quite unique, not a shiny silver almost grey, quite like it. Tires put on, fitment is pretty good, rear should be fine with no rub I hope but front are a little bit close, and camber is already at its maximum on the bc golds. Unfortunately the hole in the top of the strut tower isn't big enough so the bolts that are used to adjust the camber plates hit the edge of the cutout meaning I cannot make full use of the factory camber adjustment. Am yet to give it a proper test drive to see how much it rubs, and it definitely needs an alignment. Will adjust my ride height and take it in for an alignment next week. Unfortunately being back to uni means no more money and little time to work on the car. excuse they messy garage, house is half way through being renovated.

don't have any photos of what it would look like, but wheelfixit in Wairau Valley would be the ones to talk to about getting your wheels refinished a different colour.

that is true, easy to fix on old cars though, wire switch into the positive lead going to the odometer 😁

for sure would be good to get it checked over to make sure nothing gets damaged as a result of improper installation, I am expecting to see some increase in noise etc, as I will also be installing solid UHMW diff bushings at the same time, but will look out for any clunks etc.

this is a good idea, will definitely contact ray, always been good experience dealing with him

might try that in my 135i, cheaper too

Yeah thats what I was thinking, ive got the tools to check backlash, and from what ive read in 90% of cases the factory shims are reused, since they are used to account for the variation in the dimensions of the cast diff housing, but since diff renters are machined, mfactory machines their centres to the exact same spec as bmw factory ones, so same shims can be used as long as they are kept in the same positions and the same housing is used, however occasionally there seems to be some exceptions to this. Might give DIY a go and see how far I get, will probably need new diff seals as well...

Thats a good idea, if it leaks for the 3rd time ill definitely try that, hopefully it lasts a little while though, not an enjoyable job with the amount of mess it makes. In other news got an email from DHL saying my diff is due to arrive within abut 5 days, much sooner than expected. Will probably have to pay import tax though sadly. Any recommendations for a shop that could swap the Mfactory diff core into my diff housing for me, will give it a go myself but if I don't have the tools or can't figure it out would be nice to know where I could take it to get it sorted, auckland area.

Cleaned everything up, checked the crank seal, to make sure it wasn't the crank seal plate that had damaged it and caused oil to leak onto the belt, but it was all good, with no rubbing at all, so would definitely recommend the VTT crank seal plate fitment is good. Cleaned as much of the oil up as I could, so I can tell if there's still oil leaking, cleaned the belt as best as I could so I could drive home, will source new belt to be safe. Decided I may as well replace my leaky fuel injector on cylinder 1 as I already had a spare one that id put a new seal and decoupler on. Chucked that in to make sure any fuel leak wouldn't thin out my fresh oil I was about to put in. Injector swap was very easy took about 10min. Wrote down all of the calibration values for all 6 and had my friend code them for me. New filter and oil, and coolant top up and bleed, primed the oil pump which almost killed my battery. Car fired up nicely and ran smooth with no issues to report so far. Just the drive belt to replace now and keep an eye on to see if any oil is leaking out still. Also dropped off the white CSL style wheels for vapour blasting, hoping to have them back end of the week, just need to decide wether I keep them raw aluminium with clear coat or paint them gunmetal grey/shadow chrome, then tires go on and an alignment. Very happy to have the car running smoothly again, with no more leaky injector thinning out my oil.