elias

no I had no noticeable backlash with the stock diff head in the stock housing. But once the factory diff was put in, I think Kayne Barrie set it a bit looser on the backlash in order own ensure the gear meshing was safe. Yeah mostly getting on/off the throttle its bit clunky. Yes, however if the wrecker's diff is in good shape, without excessive pinion bearing wear, the gears should be in good enough shape to be able to adjust backlash properly, however like you say there is no guarantee.

have the exact same issue with my mfactory diff that Kayne barrie installed for me, bad pinion bearing caused wear on the pinion and ring gears so backlash is loose, and it makes clunky noises, on my 135i that is. Replacing pinion, I was quoted $1400 for, and even then the gears are still worn do wouldn't solve the issue, seems like getting a good condition diff form a wrecker is the best solution.

Seems Legit garage brackets arrived, so I decided to test fit one of the front brakes to ensure everything lined up properly. Everything bolted up nice and easily, and looks great. Tried to put the stock front wheel back on, no chance, far too small, nowhere near enough barrel clearance. In other news, Ive ordered a new set of wheels, 18x8.5 et45 Apex EC-7 in the anthracite finish, should be here in 2-3 weeks.

I see, yes the gold paint does look much fancier, if anyone is after a set I will have a used set for sale soon

Looks fantastic! I may be mistaken here and slightly off topic but are those callipers the same as found on a stock 135i? Look remarkably similar.

Have found some info, spoke to some people who do coding and reckon it would be easy as to code the car to non idrive. Then just seems to be a matter of removing all the iDrive junk, the amp, and wiring a new amp to the speakers. I will probably just wire the amp straight to an aux cord, with no head unit.

Been slacking on here recently, finished Uni for the year and have been busy with work since. Trying to save enough money to keep working on this project of slowly building a club sport/weekend track car spec 135i. Brakes needed doing on all four corners (pads and rotors), any decent ones that would work for some track use were quite expensive and would still leave me with stock calipers that are prone to failing in high heat, a well known issue with the stock 135i brembos. So I came across a set of f82 m4 brakes for sale, only 2000km on them, out of a crashed car. Found some brackets that are sold in the USA to fit these onto 135i hubs and ordered those too. These m4 brakes seem to work a lot better from what ive read, and seeing Robert Kubica's Nurburgring lap. Unfortunately due to the massive 380mm rotors, had to sell the CSL wheels since they do not have sufficient clearance. So new wheels will be on the way soon, more money... Also been working on trying to figure out how to remove the entire iDrive system and wire an aux straight into the speakers for simplicity's sake. Lots more things to come soon.

Selling a set of 4 18x8 et38 5x120 CSL style wheels. Perfect fitment for 1 series, also fit great on e46, e36 from what I understand. Great square setup, improves handling significantly over the stock staggered setup with 215 front tires. Currently raw vapour blasted aluminium finish, so either lave as is for a nice unique silver look or ready for powdercoat/paint. Minimal curbing on some wheels. Best looking wheels for any bmw, classic CSL design, look incredible especially on e46. Only selling as I need something with more brake clearance for a big brake kit im fitting to my car, these wheels fit stock 135i brakes fine. $1100

thanks for the lead, unfortunately those offsets do not work well at all on a 135i, Id need 18x8.5 et45 and from my research ARC-8 only clear 380mm brakes with a spacer, so would lower the offset even further. Appreciate the response, cheers

Long shot but does anyone have any apex EC-7 wheels in e82 1 series fitment they'd consider selling? Fitting a big brake kit to my 135i and need them, in order to clear the brakes, only wheels ive found definitive info on so far regarding clearing 380mm 4 piston brakes. Cheers.

Wanted to buy: Style 68 wheels, rears only 17x8.5 et50. Stock wheels for pre facelift e46 m sport cars.

Hello, Ive got a 2008 135i, with the CCC flip up IDrive screen, I want to get rid of it. I want to remove the IDrive screen, radio and the heated seat controls as I will be replacing the seats with fixed back seats soon anyways. Anyone here know how to wiring works? Can I simply unplug it all, the code the car to tell it it no longer has I drive? Also is it possible to remove all the wiring for the speakers or is that part of the main harness for the airbags etc? Any help would be much appreciated, im not particularly knowledgeable on the wiring/coding related stuff and doesn't seem to be much info online. Cheers

WTB: 17x8 wheels Looking for 17x8 et40/42 or 17x8.5 et45 5x120 wheels Not too worried about brand but the lighter the better, don't have to be in amazing condition. Cheers

Have been looking around trying to figure out a price for the m3 front control arm upgrade kit (TRW), however FCP doesn't seem to be able to ship it to NZ, anyone had a similar issue?

reminds me of a gr Yaris somehow

Haven't had much time to do much more to the car recently, but have been enjoying driving it over the last few weeks. Finally got round to flashing the gearbox with the XHP stage 3 flash, shifts noticeably faster now, and feels smoother overall as well, only thing so far is the throttle blips on downshift in sport mode are very aggressive so may have to fine tune them a bit. Overall very happy with it.

would be curious to know this as well

They are the silver font ones, a bit hard to tell from the photos

Some good ideas, definitely something to consider, might leave it as is for now, easier to remove it than put it back on...

Haven't done much to the car recently, been very busy with university assignments. Car still needs a wheel alignment, but when I saw that kiwi plates now offered black number plates I was intrigued, then I checked and THE 135 was still available so I had to get it. Plates showed up today, went with the standard black slim as I didn't like the black slim euro design. Mounted them with some scotch foam tape, hardest part was getting them straight and centred. Very happy with how it came out though with the black on black. Contemplating removing the silver 135i badge on the boot now, since it is rather obvious that it is a 135i now with these plates.

Took the car to Hamptons downs for the monthly meet up, and took it out on the track cruise, was great to be able to test it out and see the difference all the work/parts have made, car felt so much more solid and planted under load, much more grip with The LSD especially on corner exit. Bc golds were surprisingly good on the track with only a bit of roll on some very hard cornering. Car felt very balanced, tended to understeer every so slightly when pushed to the limit of grip, but could have easily been corrected with a bit more throttle, or some better front tires, current ones are pretty average. Also got the BOV setup properly sorted, turbosmart raceport GenV blow off valve with a custom n55 charge pipe with the turbosmart flange welded on, running orange and purple spring in parallel, softest spring setup that keeps the BOV shut on idle. Vacuum reference is from a 6mm vacuum line connected to an intake manifold MAP sensor spacer, and blocked off the original diverter valve vacuum line. Car has been running great, didn't overheat on track, and drove more than 300km all over auckland/down to Hamptons, some Piha backroads without a single issue. Just needs a wheel alignment and possibly a slightly stiffer front sway bar in the future.

Installed the last of the diff bushings, subframe bushing tool worked pretty well, a lot of hollow space in the stock bushing so should help reduce twisting under load now that ive installed solid UHMW ones in place of all the original diff and subframe bushings. Got the diff back from Kaye Barrie today, huge thanks to him for getting it done so quickly, and sorting out the diff oil too. Installed it back into the car today, was a bit tricky getting it lined up with the driveshaft, axles and bushings all at the same time but managed to get there eventually with the help of a trolley jack. Removed the rear section of exhaust to make some more room. Got everything bolted back up and torqued everything I could up to spec. Car is back on the ground now, just waiting for the BOV vacuum line adapter still then I will take it for a test drive and see how it goes. Next thing on the list, is long overdue XHP transmission tune and another wheel alignment, then the car should be pretty well sorted for a fun weekend/backroad car for now.

SOLD

Decided to keep busy while I wait until KBM has time to sort the diff installation, by sorting out my charge pipe situation. Bought a n55 aluminium charge pipe from Hell BM, happens to be ESP one, drilled a big hole in it, got a turbosmart flange welded on and it fits a lot better than the old one did. So for anyone that can't find a charge pipe to fit a specific type of blow off valve, just buy n55 e chassis charge pipe and weld on the flange that comes with your BOV, n55e chassis and n54 is the exact same shape, n55 just doesn't have the dv ports. Looks a lot better, am still waiting for 6mm vacuum line adapter to get reference signal to bov then will test to see if I get any leaking or fluttering to see if it has the correct spring in it at the moment.

agreed, was contemplating putting it on my e91 325i, but decided to leave it stock. These do sound excellent on the 130i!