elias

Hi sorry man, just saw this now, appreciate the offer though, just replaced mine with one out of an early n55 from a wrecker, cost me $440. Car runs great now though! On another note, anyone in auckland got a guard roller? And possibly be willing to lend a hand with rolling the rear guards on my 1 series coupe? Happy to supply beer/cash for your efforts, cheers

No worries, nothing quite as annoying as looking through old forum posts that describe the same issue and never seeing what the solution was. Yeah hopefully it'll be ok for a while, until I decide to bolt bigger turbos onto it at some point haha

all sorted now, fuel pump failed completely on my way to a workshop, rail pressure dropped below 100psi and didn't recover. Replaced HPFP and no issues now, data logs must have looked odd because the pump hadn't failed entirely and the low pressure side was trying to compensate. Appreciate the help with this issue cheers

Tried swapping coils and plugs from bank 1 to bank 2, but to no avail, still misfiring, eventually got code 29DC injector cutout so doesn't seem to be cylinder specific. Suspect fuel pressure issue. Looking through the MHD data logs of the misfire, the fuel low pressure sensor reading drops before the rail pressure crashes which led me to believe that the LPFP was failing. Bought a replacement (low km OEM from a fellow enthusiast) swapped it in which was a rather interesting procedure as my tank was full, so had to siphon it out first and ended up breathing in petrol for a god hour or so as some of the plugs/clips on the pump were very stubborn. Eventually got it all pieced back together but issue still persisted. Decided that maybe I need a workshop with ISTA to have a look at doing a test on the HPFP, in the meantime I replaced some vacuum lines, didn't do the wastgate ones as they are almost impossible to reach, seems like you would need to remove the heat shield but the back most bolt is blocked by the steering column... On my way to Michael at Euromotive workshop to try and help diagnose the misfire/injector cutout issue, it became quite evident what the issue is. I had MHD data log going while driving to keep an eye on things and try avoid any damage to the engine, going up the harbour bridge (very gently so it doesn't misfire) rail pressure dropped lower and lower eventually sub 100psi and the car went into limp mode, and just ran the rail pressure off the LPFP, so about 80psi. This time low pressure sensor readings remained unaffected so it was evident the HPFP was at fault. Got to the shop, scanned codes and it confirmed HPFP as the issue. Managed to find one out of a n55 5 series (newer version of HPFP) at a wrecker for fairly cheap compared to new prices so installed that and car drives well now, rail pressure responds much faster to throttle input than it ever has. Still need to roll my guards and put the proper wheels on... but at least the car runs properly again, quick drive down one of my favourite roads in the area.

yeah there is a proper tool for it, but hammer and flat head did the trick, fuel pump swapped out but didn't fix the problem unfortunately

ok sweet I mean it makes sense, being one of the most common parts on these cars to fail an I think im still on my original one at 132,000kms. Will try see if I can maybe get access to ISTA seems like a useful tool to have!

replaced the LPFP with a known good low km oem one, still same issue, fuel pressure (both rail pressure and low pressure sensor reading) drops under load and car loses power and stumbles/misfires. Would failing HPFP cause the low pressure reading to fluctuate? or is it more likely a bad low pressure sensor or EKP? new log after new LPFP, seems like low pressure drops before rail pressure so not sure its the HPFP's fault https://datazap.me/u/hlf529/still-sh*t?log=0&data=10-19-24

Anyone got a fuel pump lock ring tool? Need to change the LPFP on my e82, closer to auckland the better cheers

Thanks for the link, good read, lots of good information in there. Had a look around the HPFP, all the connections look good, no loose plugs, all the plugs on the junction box under the intake manifold look good too, no damaged wires etc. So seems like it could be HPFP itself

right I see that makes a lot of sense, time to start looking for a high pressure fuel pump then. Only reason I though it was the low pressure pump was because the low pressure sensor reading dropped quite low which Im not sure why it would do that. Either way, I shall look for a high pressure fuel pump, I paid $60 for a known good OEM LPFP, thought it would be a cheap way of making sure im not spending money on a HPFP when it might not be necessary but I see what you're saying and agree it is rather likely to be a HPFP issue, really appreciate the help with this!

appreciate the help! So looks like either HPFP or LPFP or both are the culprit, got a second hand LPFP that I picked up for a great price coming now to eliminate that issue before o drop $$ on HPFP, will see how it goes cheers

right that makes sense, now my issue is finding the cause, LPFP, HPFP, low pressure sensor? I might be wrong but I believe the HPFP is fine, before the Low pressure sensor reading drops, the HPFP builds nice up to 1400psi with no issues, then Low pressure drops down, and the rail pressure follows, dropping really low. Looks like LPFP to me but keen to get some other opinions before I buy one

Hello, I am having a bit of trouble with my car atm, its a FBO n54 135i on MHD stage 2+. Took it for a good drive the other day, giving it some abuse on some windy roads, with a lot of traction control stepping in as rear tires are pretty bad. After the twisty road, I go up a hill to pass someone (in a passing lane) and car starts shaking, at first I though it was traction control again because I accelerated quite quick but it shook more and more and the check engine light started flashing, so I pulled over, turned car off, scanned the codes and got: 29CC DME: combustion misfires several cylinders 29CD DME: combustion misfires cylinder 1 29CE DME: combustion misfires cylinder 2 29CF DME: combustion misfires cylinder 3 I cleared the code, car ran fine at idle, and gently drove it home, ran relatively smooth no real issues, when I did try a bit of acceleration it got rough so I stopped before it misfired too bad. Got home, swapped coils and plugs from bank 1 to bank 2 and took it for test drive, all good at low rpm (waiting for engine to warm up) did one small pull as soon as it hit a bit of boost breaks up again and misfires really violently. Pulled over scanned codes again: 29DC Injector cutout Cleared code, started car and gave it one more small acceleration while doing MHD data log (stopped acceleration before it misfired bad enough to go into limp mode) which showed the following: https://datazap.me/u/hlf529/injector-cutout?log=0&data=3-22 To me it looks like a fuel issue, rail pressure drops far too low and low pressure sensor fluctuates a lot, im leaning towards being a low pressure fuel pump issue but want to be sure before I buy one and replace it. Note: Coil packs/ plugs are all only a few months old (Delphi coils/ngk one step colder plugs) Any idea/help/advice would be much appreciated

saw your car at the meet today, looked great! lots of cool cars out, I was one of the 135is, was going great until bank 1 decided to misfire

yeah definitely, good tires will make all the difference, car now decided to develop a combustion misfire on all bank 1 cylinders so will need to sort that first. Trying to figure out what could cause a misfire to occur on all of bank 1 at the same time, was thinking O2 sensor or maybe DME mosfets. Mosfets would make sense as rear tires were pretty average and traction control was stepping in every few seconds of some rather spirited driving, maybe it had to work a bit too hard and fried itself... that being said I believe its MSD81 ECU which doesn't seem to really have this issue... really hoping its not injectors.

Think I found the cause for the wastegate rattle, bad vacuum line to the vacuum canister. Will give it another go today

Decided to have some fun today and do some data logs and 0-100 times (started raining just as I left home :/) Thought I heard some wastegate rattle on start up so decided to try do some logs to see if turbos were leaking boost yet but didn't look too bad, boost was pretty close to target. 0-100 times were very bad, mostly due to the lack of traction and also the fact that the car was on the 95ron map, only targeting about 17.5psi of boost. Best time I managed was 5.8seconds using about 80% throttle, spinning 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear and moving sideways about as much as forwards, will need to try again on dry roads with some better tires, good fun though trying to hold it straight. No check engine light after consecutive pulls though which was nice.

haha fair enough, that was their words not mine. I do have the time and patience so maybe I should give it ago myself but I don't know if I trust myself to do it neatly without destroying the paint, they do need to be rolled quite a bit to fit the tires that I want to, ill see how busy auto stance is, but definitely something to consider.

After a bit of research decided to replace the 12kg/14kg f/r springs with 7.5kg/12kg f/r to achieve a better front rear balance and smoother ride overall, 12kg is ridiculously stiff for the front. Got a pair of 12kg 220mm length bc coilover springs and installed them in the rear along with some new rubber dust boots, cut some spring insulators out of a piece of 3mm rubber sheet and the rear end is now much quieter and feels a lot better over bumps, still quite stiff but not harsh. Ordered front springs from speed factor in tauranga which should be here soon hopefully. Once those go in it'll be time to sort out the ride height and finally get the guards rolled, MTS in wairau have told me they'd call me back about 5 times about getting it booked in, mag and turbo's guard rolling technician is on holiday so might just take it to auto stance... Also installed a small carbon fibre boot lip spoiler.

Results look fantastic! Also own a black car and paint is in a very sorry state, lots and lots of swirl marks with a few dull spots too, how did you apply this polish? By hand or with a polishing machine? Would like to give this a go on my car.

Looking to buy a set of coilover springs in the following sizes or as close to that as possible: Front: 60mm ID, 150mm Length, 8Kg spring rate Rear: 65mm ID, 220mm Length, 12Kg spring rate Should be similar to springs out of bc coilovers for bmw 135i Cheers

Some more progress, car was in for its wheel alignment this morning, all taken care of nicely to custom specifications by the legends at Sparg's Autotune in glenfield. Car feels much better now, still a little bit wobbly side to side with the coilovers, probably due to subframe bushings now being softer than the suspension... may need to replace those at some point. Next up is rear guard roll, then try fit the semi slicks again. Also need to look into possible changing springs, seem a little too stiff on the front especially, and the rear springs bit short, car is a bit too low and preload is maxed out. Need to adjust ride height slightly and get the proper wheels and tires on, so no shortage of things to sort out!

yeah I haven't had my car on a dyno yet but at a guess id say its over 400 probably 430ish at the crank, MHD stage 2+, FBO+inlets, 98ron map definitely struggles to put the power down, which was the reason I got coilovers in the first place, was for the camber plates to fit wider front tires so I could run a wider rear tire and have a square setup. Will look into LSD in the near future but as a broke uni student I have to focus on one thing at a time... I'll double check my spring rates and then ill call Racelign and see what they reckon, thanks for the recommendation! Yeah I was thinking 8k 12k might be a more balanced set up, maybe 10k fronts to account for the heavier n54 engine?

that looks awesome man, would love to do all of that to my car, the difference in handling must be incredible, but bank account says otherwise... yeah im thinking my bushings in the subframe might be pretty shot so might be best off replacing them, do it once and do it right I guess. I see you are in auckland too, would you be able to install them, happy to pay you for your time obviously, and totally understand if you don't want to. That way I could watch and learn something rather than just giving my money to a shop and not learning anything. Will have a look into the superpro bushings, saw you did an LSD too, that would be awesome, must grip a lot better coming out of corners! Will have another look into my spring rates too, to see if there's anything funny going on there.

right ok yeah maybe the bushings are just shot, I will check, car has done 130,000km. interesting that your setup seems to be much softer front springs than mine, Ive got a set of Aragosta coilovers, look quite similar to yours actually but a bit different, also JDM, with Rana springs(come with aragosta's) which I bought second hand after a guy removed them from a jap import car so it would pass compliance, if im not stupid, my front springs say 14k on them which seems insane compared to yours... and strange have front stiffer than rear, from what I can tell its 14k front 12k rear, might have to change front springs, I wonder how that would affect the damping though. Might have to give those inserts a go then, fcp sells the whiteline ones for about 50usd$, about 120nzd by the time its here, might be worth a go. Definitely strange about the spring rates, the fronts do feel very very stiff