cleanish_e46

Appreciate the advice Jo.

I’m going to the UK in October / November to visit my parents, hopefully a ZF 320Z in a shed that can come back as carry on. I’ve had the car for a week and can confirm, I am not emotionally attached to the auto box, but I will probably do this anyway because, OCD.

I need to replace the rear main seal on my 1995 E36. What else should I be doing at the same time? Thanks in advance for any advice, Josh

Sold.

Yes, it will need to be repaired. I have an album of photographs I can link to those interested. Couple of spots in the floor, one on the roof and the driver’s side a-pillar. There was rust in the rear where the drains come out, but I cut this out and treated it ready to weld in new steel. That’s about as far as I got before I got sick. Good project for someone that knows what they’re doing, but if you can’t do it yourself, I got a range of quotes from mechanics and panelbeaters to do the work once it became apparent I wasn’t going to be able to do it myself, from $2-5k to get her to WoF standard. NZ new, factory manual 325i on the road for $7500-10500 in today’s market seems reasonable to me. I’ve had a look at / driven plenty at that price that were just as rusty, but covered with bog. I bought this because there are no nasty surprises like that. Nothing hidden. I have the carpet but it’s not fitted so you can see everywhere that would usually cover. Interior can be pulled out in no time for a closer look too. Definitely needs work, but not hopeless so I’d rather keep her in one piece. Save them all 👊🏼 Cheers.

BUMP - $5500 What is an M20B25 running you these days? $2k? and a Getrag 260 plus everything else for a manual conversion? $3k? Everything else for $500. Still being dry stored in my in-laws garage, but my health still isn’t ideal and I’m burning through my savings paying for it so get in touch if you’re a genuine buyer. Thanks.

Very cool brother.

The buyer has changed his mind so the car is still for sale if anyone is keen before I list her on TradeMe?

Sold, pending payment.

New Zealand new, factory manual 325i in Bronzit Beige. 4-door. 1988 pre-facelift. Complete car, rust in the typical areas. On lowered springs, have a set of factory springs. Starts first time, runs well and brakes work. Registration is on hold and last WoF expired 18/08/2018. 248,380 kilometres, drives well but due for a replacement cambelt (previously done on 16/03/2009 at 225,800 kilometres) and service. Service history from new until 26/05/2010 at 238,676 kilometres. My partner and I have recently had a baby, I’ve had some health issues and we’ve been renovating our first home. I’ve lost my storage and the E30 fund has gone on the house. Reluctant sale, but genuine reasons for it. Good project for someone with the time for it. Car is located on the North Shore, Auckland. You can contact me on 0275317041 for more information. $6,000

Speaking of future projects, I still have the 'donor' car. Bronzit Beige 1988 E30 325i Complete car, rust in typical areas. New Zealand new, factory manual. Starts first time, runs well and brakes work. 248,380 kilometres, drives well but overdue for a replacement cambelt (previously done on 16.03.2009 at 225,800 kilometres) and a service. Service history from new until 26.05.2010 at 238,676 kilometres. Factory apart from lowered springs, but have a set of factory springs. Registration is on hold and last WoF expired 18.08.2018 so is in need of a bit of a birthday. Our renovation had thrown up a potential spanner in works, but after meeting with the engineer today, the house doesn't rquire the E30 piggy bank. I've had a look underneath and the plan for the forseeable future is: Tackle rust Replace cambelt etc Service WoF and rego Drive it Improve it

Update on Mo. With a new addition to the family, health issues, house renovation, loss of storage and a wedding to pay for I had to make the unfortunate decision to sell. It went, complete with most of what is required to finish, to a young fella who is planning to see the project through with his little brother. This is the first project I haven't finished and it doesn't feel good, but family first. I had fun rebuilding the M20, achieved many firsts for me, lessons were learned and tools were aqcuired for use on future projects.

Hi, yes now sold. Cheers

There's no part number on it, but I think I've found the correct one on Real OEM: 17111707564 (supercedes 17111709351 & 17111709353).

Hi, I need a replacement radiator for a pre-facelift 320i. It’s automatic and doesn’t have air conditioning. This one has been re-cored 02/09, but it’s no good. Does anyone have a good one for sale, or know where I can source one / have one made? Apparently these earlier ones aren’t as available. Dimensions are 460 x 380 x 30. Thanks.

Finding the odd hour for this when the baby is asleep. Plan is to fix the intake and exhaust manifolds to the head while it's out of the car and just bolt it all back down together. Hopefully the fuel injectors work well and just need the seals replacing.

Looking forward to putting some life back into my 325i, just need to finish the 320i first. Have learnt heaps on that, but have kept it stock. Hoping to get a bit more out of the B25!

Clocked this on the shore last week, lovely looking and sounding!

Adjusted the valve clearances. Spark plugs are in. Exhaust manifold and rocker cover studs are also in. Need to track down some inlet manifold studs as my go to guy doesn’t have any in stock. Is there anywhere anyone would recommend? Started to give the manifolds a clean up this afternoon, the fuel injectors took some pulling out! Is it easier to fix the exhaust and intake manifolds to the head while it’s out of the car, and then just lift it all on together before bolting the head back on to the block? Cheers.

No. Checked it against another M20 and it was the same on that so figured it’s not an issue. Everything has been put back together correctly but there’s no way of getting the plate any lower as it’s sat on the rocker shafts.

Cheers for the advice on the above @BMTHUG Oil spray bar and camshaft sprocket back on. Just the valve clearances to adjust and I can close the lid on this bit.

This. You can’t be late to the party and expect to pay what you could’ve when you didn’t.

I’ve replaced the rockers and rocker shafts. I’ve reinstalled the rocker retaining clips and the retaining plate. The notches for the retaining plate are lined up and I’ve tapped it in as far as it will go, but the plate is proud of the top of the head… … which means the rocker cover doesn’t sit flush. What should I do / have I done wrong?

I’ve checked the re-ground valves are sealing properly by tipping a spoonful of fuel down each port. There are no leaks underneath so on to the camshaft. I had to make something to stop the camshaft spinning while I removed the bolt. Does the job. I’m ready to replace the camshaft end seal and o-ring, the latter appears self-explanatory, but the Bentley service manual mentions, “a service press or it’s equivalent should be used to remove the old seal (I just set it on blocks and drove it out of the retainer with a mallet and flathead screwdriver), and to install the new seal.” I don’t have a press so I’m all ears if you’ve found a way that works?

Reinstalled all the valves and springs.