E30-323ti

Most likely a floor mounted tilton pedal box. Boosters are for nancies

Yeah, I didn't give it much attention while it was going, too much fun driving it. It has had a few more changes since I took Andrew & Gus out a couple of years back. And will be quite different again next time around Brakes are well sorted, made sure of that a couple of phases ago LOL Porsche 996 Mono-block Brembo's with Pagid RS4-4 pads (oranges). Front: Rear:

With all these build threads & updates on the go, I thought it best to add my 2c in as well. With having the E30 on & off the road for the last 6yrs, thankfully without any failures as such, I always felt it needed something else. Well over X-mas, with a new addition to the family I had a bit of time on my hands and an angle grinder waiting for a good time. The goal is to be a fun track / clubmans race car. The mods meet the OSCA rules (Namely: max. 305mm firewall setback & No.1 cylinder no more than 5% of the wheel base behind the front axle), should I get the itch to take things up a notch (and find some $$$). As you will see, there is a long way to go yet.... I'll let the pics take it from here: Pulled out the engine & gbox and sat one of the rear sump pans I had in the bay. Then took to the firewall with the angle grinder. Jump forward in time a bit. New location for the intercooler & radiator. Some new end tanks for the IC will be on the cards. The new huffer and china-fold (c/o trademe).

Link I am guessing you want local though??

The front knuckles are also different!! ~3mm at the caliper mount, and the 2 lower strut mounts holes depending on if it's a 95 or +96 M3 they are coming from.

Don't confuse "soft" with "supple" there is a difference!!! (same with "hard" Vs "Firm")

Not really surprising, I don't run a rear bar, and just a stock one up front. BUT I am running coilovers in the rear with 350# springs. Are you sure those 250's you are using are not going on coilovers?? Because in the stock location that rate is about the same as stock springs at ~244# (which equals a boat)

That. what you just said again... Definitely get it ported as much as possible (out with your die grinder & rotary burr). Here is something similar for a Mitsi TD05

Yip, thats exactly it!! I know someplace on the net sells a 5 bolt flange with a 38mm WG flange & V band outlet, just can't find it right now sorry.

Well done!!! Have you done anything about the external yet?? You are running a T3/4 aye?? With a 5 bolt exhaust housing (that has a wastegate port)?? If you are, you can get the port enlarged and run a 38mm WG off it. Like this: Or run one of these if you have room:

Looks just like the wreckers at Horopito (if you've ever walked around there). Google Map Linkage

Get some rack-stops made up (or from TurnerMotorsport). Custom ones are good, as they may not need to be as thick as the ones you can buy. I personally wouldn't go for a staggered tyre setup.

17x9's would be best as they fit the NZV8 Slicks (240/625) quite nicely, they also have a lower diameter that works well on the E30 chassis. The 17x9" ROH wheels the commodores run would be a good starting point, but I think they will need spacers up front. Those slicks also work fine on 17x8's (what the NZV8's use to run) and there are always plenty available for cheap. Not knowing your budget, but going to 18x9's will be very heavy if it is anything from the NZ market, and tyre diameters are usually above 645mm which is an issue upfront (Front corner of the footwells & the battery tray). Don't go staggered, as this inherently induces understeer given your static weight balance would be tipped towards the front anyway and you aren't going to be putting out huge power/torque. If you are having oversteer issues, it will be the suspension setup that needs attention not bigger rear tyres. Also the ability to rotate the tyres to get the most life out of them, or if you flat-spot a couple of fronts you can stick them on the back and not right the whole day off (assuming you don't have an endless supply of wheels & tyres). There is also a 265/625 R17 slick available should you still have "real" power delivery issues. Speaking from experience & a setup with most likely more power & definitely more torque, 240 wide slicks are adequate (and cheap/plenty-ful) and it will be driver education & car setup that makes it work the best. *edit: Just looking at your setup (5lug, e36/ti combo), 17x8 et38 and 240/625 slicks will fit fine with a lip rolling in the rear, no need to "pump" the guards, just check front tyre clearance at full lock.

Nah, an E36 cover is as cheap as a blown diff if you find one, brent or hellbm could help you out no doubt, then it's just a bit of welding...

This is a mates E30 w/2JZ and quad tips: (not my cup of tea) Have you thought about running a E36 diff cover with the 2 mounts?? Might be an idea with all that extra torque (and easy to fab the mount up)...

Depends how long his struts are of course. We are all just guess-timating. I know from when I ran 350#'s in the front, on the E36 koni coilovers, they had ~20mm preload for a 315mm ride height...

Stick them in the car with no preload and see what the ride height is. If you don't know what this is (measure wheel centre up to the arch) as a starting point, you don't know that you actually want/need to run, ie. higher or lower!!! I'm sure you've read Gustaves site on suspension geometry, so you will know there is no point dumping it into the weeds!! With no preload, the car should settle/compress the springs ~2" (give or take, this is now your droop travel assuming 700#/corner). With 2cm (0.8") preload ~280lbs worth, subtract that from the weight/corner = 420# (1"/350#)*420#=1.2" the car should settle/compress the springs. These are indicitive and do not take the motion ratio of the shock into account, so the amount of change at the wheels will be greater. Once you have it all in the car, you should be able to man-up and wind the collar up further should you want a higher ride height. The thing to watch with no preload (or even not captive *cringe*) is that you do not run out of bump travel in the shock, having a longer stanchion won't resolve this, the shocks would need a shorter body. You may be able to shorten the strut housing if the insert is shorter than it. I suspect you will find the car will be plenty low enough with no preload/captive springs, you should measure the stroke of the shock to see how much bump travel you will have with no preload (ie. Stroke length - droop from above ~2"). You also want to make sure your spring travel (at a given preload) is longer than the stroke of the shock to ensure it doesn't block-out.

OR do they need shorter bodies??

Not sure how many scrutineers will accept that, if at all, especially if you are meant to have a road legal car. By all accounts a car that is too low & too stiff isn't going to handle well!!

Not quite, preload is the load applied to the shock when fully extended, so, if this equals the weight of the car, the spring will not compress when lowered down. You are using the preload to raise/lower the ride height.

If the spring on the left has no preload, that is as low as you can go!! So there is no more droop than the spring/shock on the left... It also means the spring is more likely to "block out" well before the shock reaches its bumpstops = real bad.

I get what you are trying to say, but there isn't a direct relationship between the height of the adjuster & the height change in the car. At the end of the day, the spring has to be captive, that is the lowest you can go, up from there means spring preload, no matter how long the shock is!!

Thats a function of your shock length & spring rate. You can't have a long shock & hard spring and expect to have plently of droop, because your starting spring rate is too high. That is when you need tender springs to do the drooping. Mine in the pic attached are 120# so they fully compress under the cars weight, then the main spring does the work.

Well there is your problem, long springs don't mean longer travel!!! If the stanchion doesn't extend far enough and you say you can only lower it 1cm, that doesn't add up!! What are you trying to do, fully extended it's too short, lowered fully it's not low enough???? Sounds like you might need to do suspension 101 !?!?! The issue with the GC stuff is, the standard spec spring lengths they use 6" front & 5" rear are not captive at most operating ride heights, this is fine if you are in arizona, but not new zealand!!! All the shocks are the same unless you custom spec them otherwise.... For reference, my 350# front springs 8" long had a decent amount of preload at a "Low" ride height. The 5" 550#'s I run now have the collar hand tight against the spring for the same ride height. Same shock length.

No worries. No, It doesn't matter what the spring length is, as the rate is still the same. The amount of preload applied to the spring determines the ride height. Say you have 400# springs & the front of the car is 800# each side will compress 1" from the free length (if the springs are captive). Now preload each side with 200# (1/2" up on the collars), now the effective starting load is 600# when you put 800# of car on it, you compress the springs 1/2" each side, resulting in a higher ride height. The "lowest" a given setup will ever go is when the spring has no preload at the shocks free length. If henry is saying that free length is too short, ie the car will always be too low no matter how much preload he uses, then yes, the shocks are too short. If on the other hand, he can't get it low enough because with the spring at no preload does not sag enough when loaded, then you need to use tender springs (lower rate) to take up the desired sag and remain captive (have a look at some of the pics of my rear coilovers floating around). That all looks rather wordy I must say, but pretty easy once you get your head around it.