E30-323ti

Means his buddy is ahead of you on the dibs list. You could always buy it with the wheels and then flog it off yourself (not that desperate for the wheels me thinks)

I'm surprised it needs cooling ducts. Have you had some temp paint on the rotors &/or temp indicators on the calipers to suggest you need them? Would suggest you get some proper backing plates that get the cooling air into the centre where the vanes in the rotor can pick it up. Leaving it how you have, will cool the inside rotor face, and may cause more problems (ie. differential pad wear, more stress in the rotor & cracking) edit: LoL DRTDVL beat me to it. DIY: These are the TMS ones:

That HQ wagon on TM is looking more appealing.... Never thought I'd use 'HQ' and 'Appealing' in the same sentence [rant] As far as the whole; BMW didn't make the alternator, to; the service department is another entity too the sales... If you buy a 'BMW' from 'BMW' I don't give a rats that BMW AG decided to use the cheapest alternator at the time of manufacture or that the sales department made their profit and now the service guys' want to make theirs. You bought a new/used BMW with a BMW warranty from BMW, they sure as heck should stand by their product and the BRAND, its not our problem as end users that AC Delco made the alternator or the service guy is getting the run-around from the 3rd party warranty crowd c/o the sales team. This kind of thing is happening more often (internally within large organisations, such as BMW here) were no one is taking responsibility and there is no accountability, just a bunch of clowns pointing saying it's not my fault, they forget they all have the same logo on their shirts and actually represent the BRAND not their own little profit centre, and the one that suffers is the guy that has forked out the coin in the first place. [/rant] TGIF and a long weekend in Wgtn

dang those brakes are squeally!!! sound like my Pagid's, but they are up to temp and quiet after 1 lap. and the 4wd makes it look easy.....

Isn't that the point of CVT transmissions....

The Net MD's copy the digital files don't they, ie. MP3's for playback?? You will prob. need to use a MD recorder, with Analog/digital (optical) inputs that record the wave data. I've got a MD player in the Altezza (factory) & had a 3disc one (panasonic iirc) in my EVO before that, both worked fine. This is the recorder I have: Sony MDS M100

Vorshlag in the US do one they use on their LSx conversions: Link Should work LHD or RHD as the splines are the same, maybe double check the length

The little 'dog-bones' on the rear sub-frame are to dynamically change the toe with wheel travel (ie. keep the same amount of toe) as the semi-trailing arms are renowned for toe-ing in under compression, not to do with 'speed' in particular. This was drastically improved from the trailing arm angle of 15degrees on the E30 - early E28/23 (& Z3/Compact/M Coupe-Roadster) rear end, to 12degrees + the 'dog-bones' to control toe in the later E28's & E34/32's. So going to solid or firmer bushes and eliminating the 'dog-bones' isn't going to be a drastic change, and probably balances out from a handling pro-con POV, with the firmer bushes being far more consistent/positive. And FYI, a few years back when I was sourcing bushes for my e30/28 I spoke with Andrew from (formerly) Noltech (Oz) and he advised their urethane bushes where compatible with the 'dog-bones' so I went that way. Thing with the 'dog-bones' is the seals tear easily and then wear out quickly, next time around I will be using much firmer bushes without the 'dog-bones'.

Have you double/triple checked you don't have any stray electrical current... (ie missing or poorly earthed motor). Could have been a serious case of electrolysis mixed with the radiator flush residue. Have the radiator guys look at the core, they should be able to tell from looking at it. Re: the thermo switch, not sure what radiator you got, but some have the bungs in the tanks for OEM thermo switches to go into, there is a range of temps you can get also, bit tidier than the davies craig, slip it up ya.... hose clamp jobbie.

The big case typ210 diff would be an over kill in a 3.0, and as brent says, needs most of the associated parts from the M3 evo to bolt it in. I would be looking for a donor R&P from another medium case typ188 diff (come in E28's E30's E34's & E36's) plus gives you the opportunity to get a better ratio like a 3.46 or 3.64 if your were keen.

Needs at least 12-15mm spacer to get the rear to sit out like the front. (still prob. less than the offset difference between the Mcoupe et8 & the E46 M3 they were for ~et28 IIRC). Sorry Ray, can't have everyone on here blowing their load, will just ruin the paint work.

LMAO What clown buy's a 'unique' $2.6m Aston and thinks they will blend in with the masses anyway.....

bah, looks great... Pic Pic Pic My bad, they were 17x9.5" rears (8.5" fronts) R3V Thread

And one from either end of the cost spectrum... I think we need to add $/kw as well as max power

Was the clutch rather heavy also? with only needing such little travel.... IIRC the E34 Clutch MC's are bigger (not sure what model/size) and 'bolt-in' to the E30 if you need more travel/modulation/stroke. Clutch Stop is also a very easy DIY if you are happy with the current MC.

I'll say, the traffic looked scary!!! Was there no instruction re: overtaking into corners etc... At all open days I've been to at Manfield, the golden rule is no overtaking under brakes into corners. And have never seen a track day with that much traffic, the front straight looked like the southern M'way FFS Was just waiting for that Civic to loose it, looked like it was massively over sprung and skating all over the show. Seemed to have plenty of power/speed though.

They do, look at Brents E34's 17x10" rears There is an E30 on e30tech running them, looks phat.

Have you got the rotors & calipers on the right sides?? The slots & venting (assuming radial vents as per the stock rotors) should 'fling' the air outwards. Looking at the 'front right' photo, the arrow on the caliper is pointing down ie direction of rotation. Given the bleed screws are on the top I can see why you put them on that side, but you often need to swap the fluid cross-over & bleed nipples over with 'generic' calipers. I gather the calipers have staggered pistons, thus the direction arrow. Either way, don't sort your problem, as the above would result in tapered pads, not un-even left to right wear. Which suggests it is a temperature issues as you mentioned you only had the one brake duct connect. Goodness knows why, all or nothing!! The wear ring you mention is probably due to the pads being narrow than the friction ring.

Ditto. Think it looks pretty kewl, and different!! Reminds me of a E34 M5 that use to be around Wellington, Techno Violet over Gray, with naked T-stars (ie. Black Centre) Looked phat!! Bit like this (with a lot less power): plus it is probably a bit of nostalgia from my old BFMR days

FYI I picked up a cheap pair of rims a few years back and one had similar damage. Sent to Warren at RIMRITE in Palmerston North, was $160 and came back like new.

We've had our Altezza for almost 7yrs and have hardly touched it. Other than usual maintenance (oil,filter & air filters) and preventative maintenance (cam belt & water pump) I have only had to replace the front lower ball joints and tyres. [sarcasm] With a NZ New Lexus IS200 or 300 being far better, they would probably be paying you to drive it around with their badge on the back. [/sarcasm]

I know, and some people polish the lips WHY!! I guess some get old & manky, polish being a cheap fix I guess...

awww those bring back fond memories. Unless Sam has been a muppet with them, they were stunning, and I'm sure they still are.

Sounds a bit odd, I run et25 17x8.5's with 240 slicks and there is plenty of room, on stock untouched E30 guards. I am running the M3 evo Control Arms, but they won't affect the track. Keen to see any updates!!

I run them (bimmerworld shims) also on the project/track-rat E30. From memory I am only running the thick shim with fixed camber plates also, and have around -3.5d. IIRC the shims are 3,2 & 1mm thick, so you can run a variety of combo's. Only issue is they decrease tyre clearance to the strut, not a prob. if you don't have wide tyres. Are you thinking about these for the racecar Jamez?? With the M3 guards? Have you thought about running E46 control arms to get a wider front track and more camber...