E30-323ti

DIM A DOZEN THESE SR20 E30's. No mention of brake upgrades on the list (hope you plan to do something with the master cyl. reservior, melty melt) Compressed super lows = gheyness. Suprise's me that people put some much effort into doing a car and then flake out on the important stuff, brakes and suspension. Any more pics??

piece of cake!!!Building my car hasn't cost much more than that, and most of that was getting rid of the shite E30 stuff that you wouldn't have to do in a E24/28.

E24 635i 5spd with my Holset strapped to it and big brakes!! POWER.

Turner Motorsport are reliable, most seem to be the ~same price. http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detai...UCT_ID=30234571

No.Doing it that way will determine the Min. thickness to clear the suspension/brakes etc... But will still look ghey. Refer pic. Measure this to determine the Max. thickness you can use before the wheel/tyre rubs the arch. Looks heaps better and the wheel track & scrub radius will be closer to stock for better handling than it is now. Also if you use a thin spacer they may not be hubcentric (very important), the likes of the 15mm H&R spacers come with the longer wheel bolts and the spacers are hubcentric to the hub and wheel.

Hindsight & Forward planning, great things.I had et28 16x7's with 225/45's there was heaps of clearance. If you have: 17x7 et40 & 15mm spacers they become the same as et25 wheels. And yes front and back!! Easy why to check the max thickness is to measure from the tyre to the inside of the guard lip (which you can roll for more clearance). In your pic earlier it looks like there is ~40mm on the rear.

get some 15mm HR spaces, then get it cert'd, no wof issues.

I like the wheel style, but offset is super ghey, rears are sitting along way in the guards. I presume they are a FWD offset 35-40?? rather than ~20!! Car looks nice and clean, needs a front lip!!

I used to have a Evo I Yip, it was quick, handled well (for a typical FWD based japa car). I think just about any '90's turbo japa would make a 318 look fast.

Tell me about it, it takes for ever doing it the easy way most of the time!! So are those MC's are floating, ie. pivoted at the rear. rather than fixed?? Look very nice!! Is the car going to be road legal? ie. Certed??

LOL, and I though mine were a bit OTT!! What are you doing for shock Conrod?? Something more elaborate than run of the mill Koni coilovers, Maybe some tasty triple adjustable Moton's or JRZ's?? With all this effort I'm suprised your going to run a trailing arm backend, a nice double wishbone setup would be the business.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-52711868.htm You don't see these very often!!

Ummm na lower 45 at front 30 at rear, its 110mm off the ground.... dunno bout the tyres, they are 215 40s, so they are small, i wanna get big ones for the back... an the blue, im not sure, i think your right... Sorry, hard to see in the pic.Yeah, 215/40's are way to small (profile), that will be why the front doesn't look so low also. Some 225/45's will fill the arches out heaps better.

Did you just do the rear?? Are those the correct size tyres?? Just look a bit too skinny?? Nice blue, is it Montreal Blau??

I do at home

Same problem here. Hold down the scroll wheel and pan right, easy!!

E30 M3 suspension, it bolts up, but you need a spacer for the disc (e46 m3 item)Not worth it, as the clearances are so tight... Conrad, jump in on this one. Also works with E36 hubs, but you need ~20mm spacers with most wheels.Well documented on Bimmerforums, due to the rarity of the calipers & spacers Req'd most don't bother, plenty of other BBK's to choose from. Iain: Front and rear springs work and the rear shocks. If you want to use your front inserts you will need to convert an old pair of E36 struts to take the inserts, not really worth it unless you turn them into coilovers at the same time.

V.kewl Liberal use of 1st gear.

I'm an E30-owner. I'm too poor to afford shoes... There is no need to cut or weld anything for the E36 5lug swap, it all bolts in.You would have been looking at the E28 backend I have put in, which requires a lot of work. Noltec do good camber plates and alot cheaper than the Kmac ones. If you can get 2nd hand E46 328i (300x22mm disc) or 330i (325x25mm disc) calipers they are both good/cheap upgrades over the E36 (286x22mm disc), and bolt straight on.

On the money there gusto, just forgot the offset CAB's. And just the Compact trailing arms (preferably complete), I may have a friend in OZ (brisbane) with a pair if he hasn't sold them?? I have heard rumours of the E28 front end being used, but the only way I could see it working is with custom steering arms as the E28 ones have 2 lower balljoints of ~14mm dia as opposed to the E30's 1 ball joint of ~12mm and swapping the struts left to right.

My 2c on a cheap brake upgrade. 2pc rotors something ~300x30mm (dia. to fit under your 15's) and a superlite IIA or SL4 caliper (pads are much bigger area & thicker than the dynalites). Are you doing the rear too?? If so go for a similar dia rotor to the front 19-20mm thick and dynalites on the rear. Size the pistons to match the existing and the bias should be pretty close, an inline adjuster could be used to fine tune things. Racebrakes are helpful in sourcing the parts but have no idea about sizing them. Do some research on the net and you can find out how to do it, useful to know!! Still not cheap by any means, but about as cheap as you can get!! edit: Just found my spread sheet that I did my calc's on. A dynalite rear with 1" pistons & SL4 front with 1.37" piston are the roughly same proportions as the stock brakes, but both are smaller thus having the effect of larger master cylinder (firmer pedal). Then you have to take into account the disc size & pad area. As a rule, if you keep everything proportionally the same size the brake bias will not change dramatically.

Looks V.nice, smoked tails look great with the colour of the car. 245/45 R18 seems like an overly tall tyre for a E39 (255/40 R17 is the size used on the rear of the motor sports), fine for a E38 though. Have a look at the BMW Aero kit for the E39, don't see many around and looks quite nice, consists of a front & rear lower bumper spliters & side skirts, a bit different to the usual M5 wannabe motorsport kit.

I'd say the discs & pads are more important than the calipers in terms of how the package functions. Sure the Wilwoods flex more than AP's or Brembo's etc... But they still work fine. If your warping/cracking sh*t disc's all the time it doesn't matter what calipers you have. For example alot of the NZ V8 tourers run AP discs at ~$600ea because the Wilwood ones are sh*t and crack/warp alot quicker, but the rules specify they have to use wilwood calipers. But on the other hand, if you are running discs bigger (thicker) than what you need you won't have a problem other than more unsprung weight.

Conrod, Please measure the distance from the back of the spokes to the mounting face. Look like they would fit over the brembo's.

Not lost Conrod just overlooked , I assumed Andrew had made the decision to use wilwoods based on budget constraints, I offered the Dynapro being a better caliper than the dynalite for similar $$$.I'm not endorsing the wilwoods, but from my experience, building a car is all about compromises if your not loaded with $$$ (unless it's safety related), the choice between stock, wilwood or AP's is one of these, sure it's nice to have the best, but do you need the best?? and can you afford the best?? FYI I priced the AP CP5200 (road 4pot) from simon curry, and they were ~$850+gst each, Compared to ~$240 for the dynalite's (which IMO are much better than stock calipers when used with bigger disc etc...)!! They're not really comparible in price or quality!!