E30-323ti

Tim and his Technicoloured Dream Car.Dayum!!

Can't remember their name, they are in Nelson, they also do schwitzer & KKK They aren't much use except for rebuilds (which are cheap as) etc... as the NZ market didn't get many of the trucks with the "Kewl" turbo's the swed's etc... like to use, so they are all special order. The HX35 for example was going to be close to $1900 and 3 months ex.UK Fook, that. You should just buy mine now and be done with it Gus

bumpity bump... Anyone keen?? drop me a PM.

if it is the correct width & offset and has an appropriately sized tyre 19's will fit fine. God knows why you'd want to other than for bling/rice value.

Koni SA's are shorter than the bilstein sport's. Don't bother replacing the springs if you are just going to ruin then by compressing them. If you are running "super low" you should be using shocks with shorter bodies (not just stroke) so you still have sufficient suspension travel to be safe!!! That means getting your struts shortened and shocks sized to suit, and if you are going to that much effort you should just run coilovers with good spings, not compressed garbage springs.

LOL, I think it's those Mmmm-monster guards that fix it for me!!!!

I presume you mean wheels not steering wheels. If so, no they won't "bolt-on", you will need spacers/adaptors for them to fit (~20mm depending on width). And they have different spigot sizes (74mm Vs 72.5mm)

All of those graph's show "torque at the wheels", this hasn't taken into account the gear/diff ratio/tyre slippage (if a rolling road) and if an auto the time the torque converter isn't locked up. For example my dyno plot shows a peak torque reading of 1348Nm. This was done in 4th (1:1) with a 3.46:1 diff ratio, so the actual engine torque is: 1348/3.46=~389Nm Then you can start arguing about drivetrain losses etc... till the cow's come home.

Torque seems too high. Is that corrected properly for the gear & diff ratio used?? At 100%VE it can not put out more than 350Nm, the newer BMW's put out just over their engine size in torque due to the Variable Valve timing & lift, let alone a SOHC M30.

Stocks in Auckland rebuild Koni's.

Welcome aboard. Check the rear shock mounts at the top. It is common for them to fail, this cause the shock to be ineffective leading to bouncing (like there are no shocks). It would be very odd for both to fail at once though, check the springs also to make sure they aren't broken or cracked if they are cheap/nasty ones.

what about just a pair of front guards??

NO. They will fit my E30 however, do you have a set for sale?? FYI the motorsport 17x8.5" rear wheels for the 330i are a et50 offset. the E46 M3 18x9" rears are a et28 offset. The net result being a wheel that sits 28.35mm further out. I guess you could squeeze them under with a lip roll and hell euro skinny/stretched tyres, 225/40 or 35's, ewww nasty!!!

Here is the compressor map for it. I have marked out for 15 and 20psi (what I was planning on running) for a DOHC 2.5l engine. The lines won't extend as far to the right for a M20 of the same size due to the lower Volumetric Efficiency, but will be pretty similar.

Due to financial commitments I have to let this beastie go As stated it is a Brand New Holset HX35 with a 12cm T4 Euro turbine housing (no wastegate), 4" inlet, 2.5" outlet on the compressor housing, 3" V-band outlet on the turbine housing. I researched for months before deciding on this turbo, my criteria was: Quick spool up (~3000rpm) High effiency easy 400rwhp It was to be fitted to a 2.5l engine so would be suitable for a 2.3l to 2.7l M20. I'm wanting $1600 for it, this is ~$300 less than the holset NZ distributor could do it for before you go bothering them with silly questions and is a bit less than what I paid to get it here from the US. There are many compressor & turbine(and hsg sizes) upgrades & rebuild kits available cheaply from the Holset distributor. PM me if you have any queries. holset_hx_35.pdf

That would be the most likely reason sorry to say. Bring on the 2.3 you procrastinator!!

The cooling system may not have been bled properly leaving air in the system. You may have a dodgy water pump, plastic impellers fall to bits, pretty cheap to replace if you are a DIY'er.

don't i know it.. Exactly why I have stiff springs and no rear sway bay.Seems to handle very well as long as I don't apply the right foot to quickly.

Not quite right.As you lower a E30 the Roll Centre Drops more than the Centre of Gravity for a given amount of lowering, this increases the Roll Couple in effect making the car more prone to body roll. To counter this you will see lots of big a$$ sway bars availble for the E30 combined with stiffer springs which leads to lifting wheels off the ground during cornering, which may look kewl but isn't always a good thing (esp. a rear wheel on a E30).

5x120 72.5 centrebore 17x7.5" & 8.5" et41 were stock M3 sizes

Yeah, and he's the only muppet with his bonnet open.

No Lip & No TyresBit ricer even with HM2's 17's!!!

Those are E38 fitment, would probably also fit E32/34/39 You could always go wide body stylz.

Koni SA's or Bilstien's in that order. $200max each. (iirc ~$380pr for the koni's)

My old 16x7's were et28 fitted perfect (no rubbing etc...) with 225/45's.