E30-323ti

I'd go the M10 Turbo!!! Boost your stocker gently while building up a 2.0l boost junkie Go for a Link, cheap & lots of local tuning support.

Here are the E30 output flanges. The E30's and E36/5's with small case (typ168 diffs) have the same dia inner CV as the medium case cars, the CV's are thinner though, thats why you can swap between 168 & 188 diff's.

Not according to my Parts catalog & hrs of research on the issue.Refer attached exert for the diff output flanges. Sorry about the width (dual monitors). The M Coupe & E28 Inner CV's are ~111 OD (98PCD) and yes will be the same as the E36 M3 ones, the E30 (all) ones are ~97 OD (can't remember the PCD). Andrew: I used E30 axles with the E36/5 backend.

Looks like they had as much fun welding to the stock arches as I did!!!Looking good Andrew!! Wait till you see my new Towers!!! Thats how they should have been!!! Just finished undersealing the wheel arches, need some paint for the boot and she's almost there.

Sounds like what they run in the UK. Spax aparently have developed the coil-overs to be used in the UK "One Make" series, they look quite nice & cheap!! This will make the price of old E30 go up then won't it!! Maybe I'll keep the 320, hmmmm

Behind the stub axles (6 allen bolts for the CV's) there are the side flanges, a 188 has 6 bolts and the 210 has 8 holding them on. and a 210 "looks" bigger than a 188.This is a 210, also note the drain on the side, not the back.

If they are the same sized diff it should be a straight swap of the LSD centre from one to the other. So assuming you have 2x 188's or 210's and not one of each.Just don't loose or muddle-up any of the preload shims from the side bearings, and leave the pinnion alone!!! SRBMW has done it before I believe.

Hopefully not.They might just be using different terminology, get them to clarify.

If you are talking about a E30 then it doesn't have them!!! We have Control Arm Bushes...

From the link above I would say you'd be able to import any generation of E30 M3s PROVIDED IT IS IN LHD form and you can prove to the LTSA that you owned it in England for over 90 days and used it personally for over 90 days. You can then import it and sign a declaration that this vehicle is for personal use in NZ (provided you are a NZ citizen) and further state that this vehicle will not be sold within 5 years or before it reaches 20 years since manufacture - oh and you must not have imported such a vehicle within the last 5 years in NZ. If in doubt email LTSA, I am sure they'd be more than happy to help. Also it'd be a good idea to have something in writing from LTSA directly stating that the above exemption rule is still in force. The anomoly in the exemption rule above is also the fact that there's no law stopping you from converting it into RHD once it is legally registered for road use in NZ. Hope the above helps. But if they are less than 20yrs old and built before 1996 then the frontal impact rule would still make them un-registerable in NZ!?!?!?!

ROFLMAO, Rear wheel system, sorry couldn't help myself.I presume you are refering to the E36 rear suspension arms/hubs and subframe?? If so, no they won't bolt into a E30. The best way to get it in would be to have a E36 rear floor pan to go with it, cut outthe E30 floor and weld in the E36 floor. This is a huge feat and you would need a specialist fabricator to even consider it, not to mention the $$$.

Looks nice. ditch the boot spoiler though, M-tech 1 wing would be better.

Ah well, should've gone with the Euro Rotor's, much better product than the heavy 1pc DBA rotors, never mind.

They are by no means talking about the flashest/hardest shocks around.They are talking about the readily available UPGRADE shocks, Koni/bilstein. Which are well worth the extra $$$ but still nowhere near a track shock's (in terms of $$ or performance) and are shouldn't recomended as a track car setup. The likes of KYB Monroes etc... are your run of the mill replacement shocks, and will always perform better than 15yo OE Boge's or Sach's shocks, but are not an UPGRADE. My 2c. If you are on a budget and really want to do something, get the springs, drive it bouncing around till you have the $$$ to get some Konis or Bilsteins and stick them in, you'll be amazed at the difference.

You will find the inner CV's are E28 sized not E30 325 (smaller).

Sounds like you have plenty of $$$ to play with. Look forward to seeing a top notch result. Where did the M roadster backend come from?? Not NZ I presume???

+96 M3 Evo Floating Rotor's from BMW (~$250ea, could get them cheaper ex.USA as they are a common mod over there), and some good pads (Pagids, Hawks, Mintex, etc...) call Steve @ RaceBrakes.

Refer my post above, they bolt in, been there done that.ipwnyou: Sorry, I thought you were refering to a local (euro) 633i, the Us may still have got them later than '81 I previously. The Diff in the pic is a medium case type 188 diff and will bolt into the E30 after you swap the stub axles (what the CV's bolt to), and the rear cover with E30 type 188 items. Just watch the ratio, unless you are going to use a gearbox with a 1:1 5th (E36's for example) the gearing will be very tall, ask ///carl what a 3.25 is like.

I presume you mean '77 633i as they weren't made after '81 If so the diff is not compatable. Any "Type 188" from a E24 or 28 will bolt in after you swap the stub axles & the rear cover for ones from a E30 "Type 188" diff. The Type 188 diff is also known as the Medium case diff (168=small 210=big). Happy hunting.

Either/Or, both look nice. Time & $$$ to change yours so prolly don't bother. I think you need bigger wheels though!!!

I ran Super lows -60mm from memory with Koni adjustables, now on ///Carls car. V.nice ride not hard at all, little soft in the rear for 300hp, squat central. The TE37's come in 15x6"-17x7"~35p offset (Honda), the centrebore is too big so hub-centring rings are needed. Around a 24-28p offset is needed for the E30.

Looks good Andrew. What is the wheel centre to arch measurement?? I hope you are getting a Chromoly cage to keep the weight down!?!?!

Definitely machine the centre-bore to fit. Are they off a Holden?? Same PCD smaller Centre-bore. Have you checked the offset too?? Newer holdens are ~et47, where as your E32 should be ~et15-20. Might pay to check that too before you get carried away.

A 5lug swap is the best way to go for easy/cheap brake upgrades.Anything from a 318i's 286x12 solid rotors & calipers to E46 330i 325x25 rotors & calipers will bolt on. The rears you are stuck with using 318ti brakes (272x10) unless you go custom. From what you said, it sounds very much like fitting e36 rotors & calipers onto an e30, meaning you would basically have e36 brakes on your e30.I may have misunderstood you, correct me if i am wrong. If rotors & calipers are not considered brakes, than what are? Regards, Andy "A 5lug swap" Means changing the Hubs to 5lugs, the E36 parts being one way of doing this.Once that is done there are plenty of "easy/cheap brake upgrades" that can be done. Bit clearer??

You will note in my first post I said 5lug SWAPNot stick E36 brakes on a E30!!!! Brian at BM Warehouse knows what's needed as I got all my bits from him and I had to tell him in great detail what I was doing. Cain, I'd be interested to hear more about this car you mention... Have the use the E36 multi-link rear end in a E30?? 5 series fronts sounds odd, they must be on backwards as the E30 has the rack infront of the axle not behind like the 5er!?!?!