E30-323ti

I don't think it is the one you are thinking of Andrew, I spoke to that guy, he was running a VR LSD but blew it up too, last I heard he was sticking a live axle 9" in it, LOL, nasty!!!

Duncan,I was going to mention it to your dad the other night, but for some reason you had discs??? Anyway I have a pair of Disc trailing arms & the Master cylinder. Give me a call, you've got my No.

Ditto on that.

Rotang's don't have any torque though!!!Abuse will kill it before torque does. I ran the open 3.46 behind mine with ~300hp for a year or so (I wasn't nice to it but I didn't purposefully do 1 wheelers everywhere) and it still feels fine and has over 300k on it.

I want the wheels not the tyres!!

I haven't read anything about them blowing up (the centre, crown or pinnion), I have heard of the output shaft being stripped though. You don't have much choice other than a large case from a E23 to "bolt-in" to the E30, even then you have to cut the chassis rail and make new rear mounts.

Welcome, Nice ride. Funny seeing people modding E30's like this after years on my own. Mine has been on & off the road over the last 2yrs, never had any failures (touch wood) as such, just lots of E30 bits are sub-standard when you pushing 300hp (Drive shaft, axles, CV's, Brakes, Suspension, the list goes on...) I serious hope you aren't running stock brakes!!! I drove mine once, around the block, and they had to go!!!! Re: Hilux Diff, are you talking of ditching the IRS ans going to a Live Axle?? Surely Not!!!! Re: Turbo, Are you basically running a GT35 without the BB centre (conventional)? What size Ex.Hsg?? Lag???

What song is that line from... I've heard it somewhere only this week... The A$$HOLE song by Denis Leary??I haven't heard that for years!!!

And as you can see from his sig, he likes to dress up like someone from "SPACEBALLS" and drive around in his spare time.Welcome.

5x120 et38-41ish will work with a 17x8" wheel Check the FS section

Cheers, nahh dont live with them sorry. Are they Wellingtonians as well?So from what you said its not a simple swap over job with coilovers then? you would have to get them custom designed? Sorry for asking so many questions, Im used to Skylines, where everything is available off the shelf and bolts straight up... Unfortunately not.The E30's have the front spindal integral with the strut and the shock is an insert type. I have a pair of old fronts (complete housings) for sale if you want to build some coilovers, pretty easy as all the bits are available off the shelf from Stocks or Autolign. The rear they aren't really needed as there are enough spring & spring pad combo's to get something that works. bravomikewhiskey: Must be getting old

Forgot about.B@STARD!!!! I might have to go shopping now!!!! Don't think I can pull 42rwkw out of a bit more boost Hmmm, big single.

V.Kewl I'd be very interested to see the power/torque curve's. How does it drive?? Laggy then break your neck at 4000rpm??

V.Nice, pitty it is missing the B & C pillars, oh, and the roof!! There is a woman here in wgtn that has one exactly the same, but the front wheels are on the rear and rears on the front!! Monkey's!!!

Welcome Vivian. You don't live with Neil & Brian do you?? Sorry, couldn't help it. I'm not familiar with Rally spec for a E30, as I'm building mine for Tarmac. Here is some useful info though. Go with the Bilstiens, they offer similar valving to the koni but are not shortened like the konis. Use E36 springs, they are stiffer and taller. I would look at building coil overs for the front, easy to change spring rate & height to suit, rears: heaps of springs to choose from, coilovers require mods to the towers otherwise they fall apart!! Get some -ve camber up front and a LSD (or lock-it) for sure out the back. Leave the sway bars till you have used it a bit on the gravel. At the end of the day it would prolly still need a bit of tweaking to get it just right.

Does it have mechanical injection, ewwww. Kewl cars but not my cup of tea. I've heard they drive like crap?? Have you investigated the maintence/potential repair & parts cost???

Do you mean Diameter Martyyn?? Not sure what size, I think you'll need to get under there with some verniers!!! Are you getting some nice SS Magnaflows???

TT-141?? Another 3T-GTE!!Go the twin spark boat anchors

I wouldn't go that far, just spent alot of time researching Feel free to drop me a line if you want to have a chat. The AVO's are great value for money, even the double adjustables. They are a good quality finish, not as good as the koni's up front, but V.nice. Hopefully I can tell you how they ride before too long.

TA63 Phatness!!!Was it blue??

No offense (as I'm rather corrupted), but I wouldn't use KYB's & King's on the street!!!I'm Running Koni coil-overs in the front and AVO Coil-overs in the rear. Have a look at www.avouk.com they may have something the right length to use in the rear and remember to strengthen the rear towers as they are only spot welded in!! I still have my rear koni SA's for sale, you could convert them to coil overs!?!?! or sinse you are not running it on the road at all you could run 2.5" ID springs in the stock location with some HR or Turner MS ride height adjusters!?!?! For the front, get some 51mm struts (if you don't already) and convert them to coil overs, and get some koni inserts for them. For a track only car I'd look at 450lb front & 550lb rear springs (if they are in the stock location, less for coil-overs). I'm starting with 350lb front and rear and will see how that goes, fronts maybe too soft for the track. The firmer springs should reduce the body roll, as your spring rates go up the need for stiff sway bars goes down. I'm not going to be running a rear bar 'cause the droop travel on the rear shocks is less, thus more likely to lift wheels. I'd be keen to have a llok at your beastie next time I'm up that way also. My 2c

provided you have the ecu & internals to match the boost, it will still detonate & pistons fall apart without those, the M50 while stock may not be able to handle as much boost as a stock M20 due to comp. ratio, more timing from factory etc... but a M50 should make more HP on the same boost.

'86 IT200 dirt bike '87 GF250 '91 FZR400RR '91 AE92 Levin '86 Familia BFMR (first project car) '93 EVO 1 '85 E30 323i (current project car) '80 1275GT Mini (for the wife) '92 EG Civic VTi (for the wife/parts/dog carrier) '98 Altezza RS200 (for the wife/fun while my car is off the road)

The M20 combustion chamber is it's downfall when chasing big HP, leading to detonation city!! The M50 mutli-valve head is alot better thus you can get more HP/$$ than a M20 (excluding the purchase $$ of the motor of course).

AUTOLIGN are the bilstein agents, they have a branch in wgtn. just up from the tyre clinic, if they can't be rebuilt they can sell you some new ones. If they can be rebuilt in may pay to get them revalved also to suit your springs (the rears mainly unless you have got some harder springs to go in the front also). Body roll isn't a shock issue, more a sway bar issue. If you think it's rolling too much check the bushes and end-links, they could be worn or broken. If they look fine jump on the net and order some stiffer sway-bars, they are the only way to counter bodyroll without really hard springs.