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Everything posted by gmccormack
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Should fit. For $100 if it doesn't fit.....so what, just resell it.
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Kit has the name Zender molded into it, sorry there are only side skirts and front, nothing on the rear and I don't know if it will fit a 4 door. Yeah E30stz, bought it off trade me......never again, what a hassle
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Russian web site......highly suspect. Workshop manual says, K-jet 142.4 HP @ 5800rpm (mechanical injection E21 323 only) L-jet 138.7 HP @ 5700rpm (early E30 323) L-jet 150 HP @ 6000rpm (mid 84 E30 on)
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L-jet and K-jet were never made in the same year. K-jet 323's are E21's L-jet are E30's. Peak power figures may be slightly better for the K-jet system but the E21 is still slower despite have a weight advantage over the E30 so I would imagine the K-jet connot match the L-jet across the whole rev range.
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I'm wrecking a 318, it's a bit of a sh*t heap but still has some good parts on it. Good set of head lights, leak free power steering system, windscreen, body kit etc. Offers Ph 299 7942 or PM me
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I have everything needed to convert a prefacelift automatic 318 to 5 speed for sale. Includes gearbox, slave and master cylinders, driveshaft, diff etc. I'm told it has recently been fitted with a new clutch too. Can be test driven at the moment but engine will be coming out soon, so if your interested in test driving the box please be quick $600 ono. Ph 299 7942 or PM me.
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I have a few spare central lock relays if you want to try another factory one .....and I won't even charge $1000 for it or I would just fit aftermarket central locking, $50 from Dick Smith or Jaycar Electronics.
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It should just plug in and go. I've pulled apart two facelift 316's. One had a rev counter the other had a clock but both have the same wiring.
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It's just Jap imports that don't have the room. Change the black plastic panel between the tail lights for a Kiwi one and you can fit a Euro plate.
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My E30 gear shifter is in better condition than the one pictured......and it's speedo reads 190000km..........and it's been wound back
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I think I still have all the wiring in the gold 325 wreck that your engine came out of Andrew.
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Check the brake discs for wear. Imports have their brake runout measured during the V.I.N.. High mileage cars usually fail on this and have to them replaced. New discs=clocked speedo.
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Ive one from a 89 316 Gus. I think they all the same.
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The M10 is a horrible motor, but I still like the idea of a turbo one. Back in the turbo F1 days, they pushed a M10 block to produce 880hp on 3.8 bar boost and just over 1000hp for qualifying on over 4 bar and that was only a 1500cc. So they can obviously take a bit of punishment. The downside is the engine life was measured in minutes. Still it would be fun for those few minutes
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Usually there is nothing wrong with the actual gauge. There are two rechargeable batteries in the dash cluster that over time leak acid onto the circuits and contacts in the dash. Cleaning the contacts and replacing the batteries can fix a number of instrument problems. The car in the picture is not a 89. It is a prefacelift (83 thru to late 87) so the hose size I gave could be wrong for your car. If you do need to replace the gauge I have one for like $20 not $200
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Problems with E30 gauges are common, but usually easy to fix and spares are cheap. I think I might even still have an old temp gauge sitting around somewhere. "oldskool type"??? Do you mean prefacelift (pre 88) The hose is 32mm I.D. on my 88 and 89 wrecks. Hope that helps.
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Is it the one I've seen with grass growing around it on Mahia road? Is there any rust in the rear arches, boot or sunroof
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I sold a 84 323 engine and 5 speed box with 320000km on it for $900 in the trade and exchange. You should be able to get more than that for it no trouble.
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Sound like faulty or missing thermostat. Running the engine in a constant "cold" state will cause premature engine wear.
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No, there is no chain in a M20
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I'm sceptical of any intake mod that does away with the black plastic shield behind the headlights in the hope of gaining better airflow or lower intake temps. Keep in mind any air entering the stock intake system has come from in front of the shield so is already stone cold, not engine bay temp. And as the car moves down the road the shield creates a slight tunnel ram effect in the intake air charge. The area of the shield is much greater than the cross sectional area of the intake tube, so any air hitting the shield as the car moves down the road either spills around the shield or is forced down the intake at a higher pressure than if the shield was absent, as in the case of a pod filter or CAI of equal cross section.
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It's worse than that Gus. The 7HP is only a peak gain, if you look at the dyno results it actually lost power below 3500 rpm. The car is probably slower on the road than when it was stock. Why bother indeed.