gmccormack

I know that I have one, I just don't know which side I have.I'll check & get back to you if I have any luck.

Nath, your car runs hydraulic tappets (non adjustable). Only complete replacement of the tappets and associated parts will ever get rid of the tapping.

Haynes manual isn't to clear but it says its in the steering column, but it only shows photos of the E30 installation. Can't you hear where it is from the ticking????

They are adjustable.....adjust them.Oil changes & flushing wont help.

Dave, do you want it for an engine swap?

No. There is a plug with 3 wires coming out of the ECU ( seperate from the large plug in the engine harness) 2 of the wires are outputs for the gauge cluster, 1 for the fuel economy gauge & the other for the rev counter.

Not exactly, It was the ICV that can get gunked up and cause hard starting and poor idle

From 89 E30, improved feel over power rack & no fluid leaks to worry about.$250. 021 1367007 or 2997942

Rust under the plastic grills at the bottom of the windscreen.

No. Running an electric pump from an independant battery as in a top fuel dragster= power gain. Running an electric pump from your cars battery & then having your engine working harder to replace energy the electric pump used= power loss.Every time you have an energy exchange there is a power loss.The more exchanges you introduce into the system the greater the loss.So, crank turning water pump via 1 belt = 1 exchange = low parasitic power loss. Electric motor turns pump, battery drives electric motor , alternator charges battery ,crank turns alternator= 4 exchanges = high parasitic power loss. Dragsters have an advantage over street driven cars in that they are running for such a short time they simply do away with an alternator all together and change batteries between runs

Electric water pumps are only intended for serious drag racing applications, where no alternator is used.If you use it with an alternator in a street application you will lose power not gain it. The extra current the alternator must produce to keep pace with the load placed on it by the electric pump wastes more HP than driving a mechanical pump directly from the crank.

Thats why you need to fit the factory control relay :banghead:

Dave, how about this to repower your 320?

I'd hate to think what they cost at the dealers, but I've got 4 spares

Why would you want the alarm installer to fit aftermarket gear when you friends car will have the stuff you need. Everything is prewired, there are what the factory calls "special equipement" plugs all over the loom where different options plug in. Most of them are behind the glove box, but their are others in the engine bay for an electric cooling fan, air con etc and more behind the kick panels in the front and in the steering column.

Easy, just fit a replacement relay.Its the little black box behind the drivers speaker.

Ryan, your relay is stuffed.

I haven't come across one that didn't have it, but I've only had 6.All E30 have a connection in the loom where the additional CL wiring plugs in. You still have to fit that wiring and the CL control relay to make it all work, either with or without an alarm

Yellow with a blue stripe & green with a blue stripe hook up to the alarm to trigger the CL. Brown with violet stripe is the alarm trigger. The wires are located behind the drivers side front speaker

I'll give you 2 grand cash

I don't know Andrew, that guy you bought the brakes off looked a bit shaddy to me

I disagree. E30 engines should always be taken out or put in from the bottom.I've done 3 that way and it beats pulling them out from the top hands down.

It went for $1950

No

I also have plenty of spare speedo's if you think it's an internal problem