325_driver

that guy has quite a few video's on 2 e30's he's restoring, it's good stuff

@NRJ by the way, i ran a voltmeter across the battery as i cranked the car to start it, it was somewhere between 9.6v-9.8v Probably a battery on it's last legs? a few places i keep reading about it say it's normal, but i'm not too sure dropping from 12.5->9.7 is acceptable What's everyone else's voltages like on crank? Don't have ISTA installed yet, but when i was in the hidden menu, the menu option 14 (stored memory errors) have 3 or so errors that might suggest something to do with voltage.

@NRJ you know, i was just thinking that, what if it's all linked to the weird electrical problem i experienced earlier after having the car sitting for a day, which is potentially linked to a battery running out of life. i've been checking the battery voltage regularly both through the hidden menu and a multimeter and its usually between 12.2-12.5 before starting, but i suppose voltage isn't the best measure for battery life. Thanks for the clue, i'll do some digging once i go through this confusing ISTA installation.

n52 Auto Hmm, so i took the car on a big drive the other day to test whether oil leaks have gone, and finally a whiff of victory. But not so fast i parked up at the super market to grab a drink on the way home, then started the car again and the red transmission warning light came on briefly (while in park) only to go away immediately. Car drove fine, but has me spooked - Check, is ok - I checked for codes with my bluetooth connector, and nothing in there - If i load up ISTA+ with K CAN cable or something will i be able to find anything in there to drill into what flagged it? car has 130,000 on the clock, and the gearbox oil was serviced not too long before i picked it up. Any advice would be great? Thanks all again

@Palazzo that would be a niche market of a niche market within a niche location.

Anyone seen any in NZ? I was following one last night through TAURANGA of all places, even had the plate EBROWN https://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=ebrown Tried to get a photo of it, but it was dark, and i was eating Pad Thai while driving haha

Well, I re-charged the battery, on the charger i couldnt seem to get it past 12.25V Car started, > 14.2V when it's running so that rules out the alternator Stopped the car, Battery rests at around 12.3v I've tried both the CAS module relay and new for a few hours, and doesn't seem to be any excessive drain So this whole thing is very strange, especially that noise coming from the glove box at some point, i've heard relay's in the past go and thats kind of the noise. Is 12.3V a bit too low? and maybe indicative of a battery heading towards end of life? I would have thought the range might have been between 12.5v-12.7v I found this somewhere, is this accurate? Bentley manual apparently I'm just hoping all of this is as simple as, battery is dying, me fiddling round with fuses with a battery with very low volts caused it to go into a hissy fit. Thanks for all your insights

@M3AN Well i some times wonder if it was going mental like that, because it was like maybe dropping below 10v, and the car didn't know what to do, i.e. just enough volts to work, and not enough volts to work, because when i checked it, it was 6v! I've been running the charger on it, and it doesn't seem to climb above 12.25/12.30 volts, and when i disconnect the charger down to under 12v (albeit only been 1-2 hours), maybe my battery just decided to crap the bed? and it all went down hill from there? Very strange though, never had a battery just randomly go if that's what it is

@NZ00Z3 well yes, the battery is flat flat now, but it was perfect this morning before i unlocked the car ** EDIT ** removing some of the symptoms as that was linked to low voltage, once i got above 12v, i seemed to have some functionality back. When i have that CAS module relay plugged in (New one from repco), AND i have the battery charger across the terminals, the voltage goes backwards quite quickly. When i unplug the CAS relay it seems to be stable / gain charge.

I unplugged the CAS module relay, and the ticking went away plugged it back in, and when i put the key in the fob and press the button, the clicking begins again Any one had one of these relays go bad?

e91 n52 2006 So i simply unlocked the car (everything ok) Then i got in the car and put the fob in the slot, foot on the brake, start/stop button and nothing, I might have briefly saw a key yellow warning or something once, but it dissapeared I started to diagnose The central locking button on the inside didnt work- So i went through starting to check fuses, couldnt find any blown But now it's gone absolutely f%n nuts, it's clicking like crazy, from the glove box where the fuses are Does this sound like a relay gas gone kaput?

@M3AN i'm not even sure if it's road legal now! Might need a cert!

Added further HP through aerodynamic improvements

@Driftit been there, broken links everywhere does anyone have an up to date INPA software link? a few things seem to work and a few don't, i'm having issues with version 5.02

So my OBD CAN/K showed up today, with a CD. I've uploaded the installation files, as it seems to be a pain finding them online, as i didn't have a CD player anywhere in any computer. in the end, i found a friends computer with a CD player to get them ? https://www.dropbox.com/s/z18fjvogutzryzk/INPA CD.rar?dl=0 They in RAR format, because winzip doesnt like German Characters or something I followed the steps in INPA folder first, seems to work fine on Windows 10 64bit Cheers

@Young Thrash Driver more like, they went missing ... lol When i pulled out the sensors, i saw the black retainers in the head, but there was nothing else in there. So maybe the people last working on the car lost them , and decided to put it back in without the inner o-rings Winning

@NRJ codes Haven't returned .. yet. They were pretty clean when I took them out. And gave them a good soaking in brake cleaner. I checked the gap in the head they weren't there lol, and I definitely didn't pull them out. They starting to leak though now lol. Gasket goo didn't hold up too long haha *Edit .. o I see what your talking about now. Had no idea they had filter's thanks! I'll take em out and clean em when I do my next oil change.

@zero I definitely replaced it, how ever this is something i want to check. So you're saying, it's a one way valve essentially? a) It's designed to not allow crank case pressure back up into the CCV? b) So oil returns when that ball allows it, i.e. in the absence of vacuum / pressure?

@Jacko $60+gst for a set of vanos o-rings from BMW ... yeah-nah ... lol I dont know what rates you guys get from BMW, but the guy i always talk to has put me in the cash cow category or something Other stunning yeah-nah quotes include $400 for a CCV ... $130 for that rubber strip that goes along the windscreen

Looking to get a set of these https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/11367548459-MFG17.aspx?LineItemId=80ca6093-f91a-494c-b467-2e353b3017dc Anyone got a set I could buy, Or could i piggy back on someones up and coming order? It's no rush, so thought i might ask Didn't really want to buy the set off amazon after being scarred for life with the last CCV, and the shipping alone just isn't worth it for those tiny things.

@NRJ right there, every time, with the old CCV it was across every runner with the new CCV its just a minimal amount of oil between cylinder 1-2 every time lol I went nuts with brake cleaner when the intake was off so i can keep track of any sign of oil, oil filter housing is sweet, that was recently done

Just slap a turbo on it bro ?

Write off. Every time

Imagine driving that car round at night! I think they need to vantablack the wheels too, it would be WILD *edit found a photo that isn't all show-roomed up, unreal

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