325_driver

E90 n52 Wondering if anyone can help me with a slight rattle sound Ignore the ticking noise, actually quite a quiet engine (it's not that bad it's just cause my phone is right up there) behind the ticking is a very slight rattle. Sound of sounds like a marble in the intake maybe Might be hard to make out behind that ticking background DISA? Really the question is, when a DISA is on the way out, how obvious is it? Like will i be able to hear it rattling with the bonnet down. It sounds pretty quiet atm, but there is a subtle rattle in there, and i'm just paranoid after all this work i've done to it. Or does the DISA make a slight rattle as the flap moves around in there. Cheers

@C-130 Hercules I like where this is going So basically you're suggesting to split it in two? Hell yes. Please upload photos of cracked rotor. Maybe he needs Nitric acid in a water Blaster too for good measure hit the entire area with it.

@M3AN just get the blow torch I think you'll find it quite therapeutic raining fire down on that seized rotor and coming down with your mallet like Thor. Something tells me it deserves it

unfourtunately metal contracts in the cold, so it will be extra siezed at night ?

@M3AN don't be afraid of giving that inner of the rotor a beating with a mallet, you usually need to in order to break the rust seizing it on. And then tap the outside of the rotor with a (rubber) mallet from the inside gentle to see if you have any movement else, yup butane torch ... that's the one bro

@M3AN mate, the struggle is real today, i really appreciate you posting this, it is comforting knowing others in the BMW world are pulling hair out. Go borrow a blow torch .... i.e. heat the metal until its red, then hit it with the mallet, and work your way around it. That's hardcore lol, i've only once had to do that.

After 5 hours of swearing to all sorts of causes the Sump CCV not clicked in, Put it all back together like that, car starts fine no codes But have a rag round it to monitor for oil leaks Lol stay posted ** update 40km drive, oil doesn't appear to be oozing out where the return line meets the sump, but it's definitely not connected. Any hints on how to get it back on? Should i use the quick disconnect tool in reverse, i.e. insert it to spread the clips, and then push it down as far as i can, and then pull the tool out? Hopefully someone has some advice here, because i wouldn't like to leave it as it is

Time to remove intake manifold 1.5 hours Time to click CCV sump return "quick connect" half a day and counting There is nothing "quick connect" about this sorry excuse of a design. Why can't people be happy with a God damn hose clamp

@Jacko I wish I checked the manufacturer. I usually buy from fcp or rm euro. But I had already done 3 other orders and I was getting a bit sick of the postage punishment. We need a bimmersport coordinated group buy calendar so people can piggy back everyone's orders lol And work around splitting orders to avoid duties charges

Hello oil! CCV on e90 round two Never buy your CCV off Amazon lol not worth the risk Mine lasted a grand total of 500km Luckily this time only took under 1.5 hours to get off knowing all the tricks and angles for those CCV Pipes

@kiwi535 I always buy my clutch / brake general stuff from nzad.co.nz (nz Auto distributors) They cheaper than repco and real good quality. Free postage too, usually 1-2 days shipping

@kiwi535 their fuel components come from Singapore Fun fact - not sure if anyone remembered the Diesel crisis a decade or so about, Gull was the only brand which wasn't contaminated from the sulfur content, i remember there being Bank Run type queues at the stations during the time until the other fuel companies could redo all their Diesel Things may have changed where they buy from with Caltex purchasing them, but i wouldn't imagine so because they have very specific mixing rules, i.e. the import the components in separately, and mix it into the different fuel grades at terminals New Zealand at Mount Maunganui Hewletts Road, They make huge savings on Tax brackets, because there are different tax levies if your importing a Fuel Grade, or an un-mixed component which they mix locally to produce the end product at the pump, that's why they are able to always under cut fuel prices, they are at a huge cost advantage to produce. Gull Bio Diesel gets its components from recycling/refining left over by-products from the dairy industry, by memory they are the only company to implement this process, the other companies have to manufacture the required components for it. Other companies in NZ get their fuel from Marsden Point and some from overseas Not sure who gets what from where, but Gull definitely gets it components ex-singapore and produces the fuel products locally.

@lord_jagganath I use bio diesel for shampoo, works well

Replaced that horrible windshield molding All that was left was the spine, merged to the windshield And polished those headlights like glass

@Mad_Max ? so if any of you lads get water in the tank - YOU KNOW THE WAY TO GO! lol

@Olaf i have a story that might make you laugh then haha back in my e30 days when i was younger, one of the spare e30's i had was parked up for a long time, and water got into the fuel tank, alot of it, how, i dont know, but it wouldn't start because water was the only thing going through the fuel pump we tried draining the fuel tank, but the design of the fuel bowl is that even after draining the fuel, the water remained right in the area that would get sucked up by the fuel pump I didnt have any suction type things that could reach it either But water is soluble in ethanol, so i poured like 5l of ethanol in, it dissolved all the water, and then poured the fuel in and just like that, the e30 was back in action.

@zero yeah, he did the entire mix for it, i'll see if i can pin him down and get some detailed specifics about how ethanol blends interact with motors, and performance specifics i used to talk to him heaps about the specifics of gull fuels, but its very detailed and has escaped my memory I was always angry with him for not just doing it in his own time, patenting it, and selling it back to the fuel company lol ... cause DAMN!

My father was the operations manager for Gull Petroleum, and he was the chemical engineer for all of their fuels, including ethanol blends, force 10 etc - I can ask him for a detailed explanation if you all want lol? What do we want to find out about the fuel? I'll dig into it and report back. From my memory when he was designing it, i heard it was actually supposedly superior for newer cars both in performance and better on the engines, it was only some of the older motors that might have had issues with the dryer combustion from the ethanol content.

So the CCV has probably failed on my car after a week, I'm buying OEM for that, was probably some cheap Chinese garbage. But i'm hoping someone has some spare CCV pipes they could sell me, just in-case i break some taking it off again, as the price of those pipes are ridiculous new.

Stethoscope time! Before you start ripping things apart lol I would be trying to discern first whether the noise is coming clutch end or crank noise. Anyway you can just pull the clutch fork out of the box?

@Jacko When the oil warning light came on to put in +1l, i put in exactly +1l the electronic dip stick says its on the full mark (not over it)

e90 n52b25 Ok, so I thought it was fixed, no more rough idles, no more engine codes, and well it seemed to be running fine I noticed the Idle was starting to sound a bit rough, albeit intermittently, I recently took it for a big round trip to the snow, got back and checked down the side of the block under the intake plenum, and sure enough over a 600km drive, i would say i can see atleast 100ml of fresh oil built up hoping for some insight if someone else has experienced similar issues like a) how likely is it to blow a 2nd CCV (it wasn't OEM) & are there other factors that can lead to this b) what else could be causing oil to puddle out on the head (where the headgasket lip is) and run over onto the block. An engine code recently popped up, p1415, which looks to be vaccum leak related? Can a vaccum leak cause the CCV not to work properly and it pump it back into the intake? The electronic dipstick hasn't moved from max, yet Cheers

Blacked out the grills wanted to do the hood trims too, but i couldnt get one off

I realised, i cannot help my self, there's so many limitless life hack possibilities here is another one i did today I needed the lettering to dry so i could paint over it, (and remove the paint off the lettering clear coat) But it got done