325_driver

@KwS yeah that's what I'm thinking, I didn't really want to remove the pistons but I like doing a pro job. Masking round that area just gunna take a bit of time. Guess no way I'll notice the difference between the brake pads lol. Thanks @Eagle going to use my penrite super dot 4. Wasn't in the mood to buy more.

Does BMW have a list of approved brake fluids? Or just any decent dot 4, hoping I can use that penrite super dot 4

@M3AN thanks, good to know.

@KwS thats a good idea. I have a box of latex gloves I could use. Thanks for that ! If I took the pistons out of the calipers do I need a tool to put them back in? Or can they be pressed back in easily enough. Just Making sure I don't get stuck half way through the task lol

@zero i know brake fluid is coming out, i'm talking about stopping it continually draining through the lines from the reservoir i heard pushing the pedal in is a trick to stopping it from emptying the rest of the system just never done it before

So i'm looking to add a few HP by taking my calipers off to paint them, and i thought i would clarify a few things 1. Jamming something up against the brake pedal - does that actually stop the fluid from draining out the lines? I've never done it before, and don't want to clamp brake lines. Want to avoid having to do the ABS bleed procedure from taking calipers off. 2. Brake fluid - it's just a daily driver, I have some penrite Super Dot 4, will that suffice to top up the reservoir when i bleed the lines ? If there are specific BMW specifications that need to be met, I can't seem to find them. Cheers

How frustrating, I bought the wrong ones $15 inc postage or something

Are you happy too Or happy to Or both? ?

@Jacko o and you can use a paint gun on those compressors just don't expect to be able to do massive runs with it. I.e. smaller strokes. Still can get a nice finish Used smaller ones before in the past Just saying 2hp is plenty If you are buying new the metric bang for buck you should be looking is the flow rate in CFM or Litres/min LPM I think these guys were having some discounts. 9cfm is good for less than $300 https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/Belt-Drive-240V-Air-Compressors?From=Search&s=Air com But yeah check the CFM on that Bunnings one, is a good price too

@Jacko provided your not using a HVLP paint gun you only really need maximum of 2hp. $250 would be plenty. I would hit up the Facebook market place to be honest. Plenty of decent second hands on there for cheap like sub $100 mark.

@Jacko the only reason why it was coming out round that location, was because there was a gap in the loom / heat shield round cylinder 2, so all that oil pumping through the sensor, was pouring out over the rocker cover and then coming down the intake side. Lol you reckon all that oil could have something to do with my vanos code haha? like clogging up at the connector. It's hard to explain how much oil is pumping through this hole in the sensor! It would work out at 1l every 500km at this rate!

Ok update, found the oil leak, hoping this helps some one else in the future. This is funny So when the CCV was leaking, the oil was going through the intake, leaking through the seals and trailing down the head, creating puddles and then overflowing past the head gasket onto the block, i could see the oil dripping sort of on the bottom of the intake flange. To confirm - Both the original OEM CCV was starting to fail and the new non OEM CCV also started to fail 3rd time lucky - after taking it for a 20km drive after installing the new OEM CCV, oil was depositing in the exact same places, in the exact same way, and made me go? Did I just blow another CCV, maybe, but unlikely. It was atleast 50ml of oil, just from that short drive, and i didn't think it was possible to have all of that just coming from a CCV, unless it was sucking it up from the sump. I thought, it couldnt be the rocker cover gasket, as that was just done recently before i purchased it, but took off the covers anyway just to have a better look. So i saw oil puddled in the rocker cover, but it was above the gasket, so i had no idea how it could have got there, but it atleast gave me another clue Enter the Oil Pressure Switch, I noticed, oil was oozing out the plug where the connector meets, and that oil was pumping through the wiring heat shield, and then running all along over the rocker cover, which then waterfalls down the intake, head, and block. The loom had basically become an oil line. So to anyone else going on a mad hunt for the source of oil leaks, take the connector off the oil pressure swtich, see if thats the culprit first. To think i was just about to burn this car to the ground from all the frustration

@Driftit Hey i saw a comment from you about the CCV saying something about "a leak stopping it from working" What did you mean? Only reason why i'm asking is because, there's more oil in the same place (puddled in the head grooves and running down onto the block), and im convinced its oil seeping through the intake again, its not coming from rocker cover or anywhere else, and it's highly unlikely that another CCV has failed. is there something that can stop a CCV from operating as it should, i.e. the oil that should be going down to the sump, ends up going back into the intake.

@zero I am jealous of his working space I'm stuck with hillbilly styles on gravel drive ways its a hard road to the top mate

Been watching this recently Nice to watch a detailed breakdown / video diary of an engine tear down / reassembly Edit - Found another stunner Some therapeutic content to enjoy with breakfast, lunch and dinners

Would anyone happen to have off hand what the resistance is supposed to be across the solenoid? Might crank out the multi-meter and check for the sake of it

Are the solenoids exactly the same? Just one goes in exhaust and the other in inlet?

@Jacko you are a legend, I was looking at them and was hoping someone else had fitted them and could confirm Working fine. That price Is a hell of a lot better than 200usd a piece lol Bit paranoid after my CCV Fiasco

@B.M.W Ltd just one of those Bluetooth viecar things. I have cleared the fault code, the check engine light is off for now . I'm using torque lite, think I need to get the upgrade for live data. What am I checking for?

Ok will try cleaning first, God they are pricey OEM! Can see one on FCP from veico for $50 USD but mixed opinions about causing irratic idle. Where have you guys purchased from / price and any issues? Or have you only bought genuine BMW ones which look to be 180usd ea

Man it never ends! A code came up today P1554 which seems to be something to do with sticky Vanos. I'm not noticing any issues with idle, power or rattles up there. Anyone experienced this before? How do I go about diagnosis

Not a BMW Aparently this was this guys first vehicle restoration, a really interesting watch, actually gets pretty entertaining as the parts go on not to mention the throw back sound tracks in it Reminds me of the good old days with e30's, angle grinders, blow torches, welding sockets onto seized bolts etc

@zero who cares about the handbrake, or even if there's bolts holding it on! BLOW TORCH AND SMASH THE THING OFF! BMW's are built for punishment

@Eagle yeah they fail due to oil getting into the electronic board i.e. the failed CCV was pumping oil through my intake, so plausible Any sound now has me super paranoid Not throwing any codes or any power loss, so it might be nothing I guess i'll just leave it and see if it develops. I would imagine the rattle would be more noticeable if the pin was about to come out

Yeah. I unplugged the front DISA Same noise. Cant get to the rear one. To be honest if you cant hearing anything it's probably not disa. Apparently there are other symptom's with it? Like loss of power and fault codes? Hard to know because I haven't heard other n52 engines running perfect.